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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING Homemade wind turbine. Wind turbine wings. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering
Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Alternative energy sources All articles of the project Self-made wind power plant:
Depending on the local availability of one or another material and production capabilities, wind turbine wings can be made either wooden or metal, or a combination of wood and metal. The tree is taken dry, without rot. wooden wings. Wind turbine wings should not change their shape from time to time. To comply with this condition, special measures must be taken in the manufacture of wings from wood. The best way is that the blank for the wings is made from three boards no more than 8 mm thick, 1 mm long and 650 mm wide. The boards are carefully planed and glued with casein glue. Casein glue is made by mixing dried cottage cheese (from separated milk) with ammonia to the consistency of sour cream and adding 10% by volume of silicate liquid glass (office glue) to it. Without such an additive, casein glue will be too susceptible to moisture. Casein glue must be used no later than one hour after dilution. Both sides of each of the boards to be glued are quickly smeared with casein glue (using a brush), all three boards are placed on top of each other and squeezed with clamps, a vice or carpentry wedges. Under the press, the boards glued together must dry, which takes at least a day. After that, the wing blank is processed according to the profile (indicated below). Wings can also be made from a single solid board (you just need to keep in mind that wings made from a solid board can warp if the wood of the workpiece is not even and well dried). To do this, they take a flat, untwisted, rot- and knot-free wooden block and split it along the log (as they chop shingle boards for a roof), while obtaining narrow triangular planks (Fig. 4, a). From these boards, one of the most even ones is selected, from which a plank 1 mm long and 650 mm wide with a thickness of 120 mm at its middle can be cut out. If the thickness of the deck is less than 20 mm, then one board has to be extruded from its central part (Fig. 300). When choosing a board, it is necessary to ensure that the wood is fine-layered, and the knots are not more than 4,6 mm in diameter. Then mark the profile of the wings, which in Fig. 4c are shown in section II, at a distance of 120 mm from the center of the sleeve, and in section I - for the end of the wing. It should be remembered that the dashed lines in the drawing are shown for a clockwise rotation profile. This means that if you look at the wings from the direction of the wind, they will rotate in the same direction as the hour hand. Such a wing is intended for the GAU-4101 generator. For the GAU-4684 generator, it is necessary to make a left-hand rotation wing, in which the thick front part of the profile must be turned in the opposite direction than in Fig. 4. To correctly process the wing, between sections I and II, you must first draw lines with a ruler and a pencil from the main points of the end profile to the corresponding points of the inner profile. The ruler must be at least 800 mm long and have a square or triangular section with a side of at least 20 mm.
Markup is done like this. First, lay the wing blank down with the side that will be turned to the wind during operation. Further, on the back (thin) part, a point is marked at a distance of 6 mm from the bottom line at the extreme section I. Also, on section II, a point is marked at the bushing at a distance of 16 mm from the bottom line. These points are connected to the left corner of the profile. Then this flat side is processed, removing excess material with a chisel, planer, or simply with a sharp knife so that the wing profile acquires the cross-sectional view shown in Fig. 4 thick lines (the remaining intact wood is shaded). All intermediate profiles between the two main I and II are checked using a ruler, applying it along the wing either to the front thick edge of the profile, or to the rear thin edge and to individual points located at the same distance from each other, for example, dividing the profiles into 4 parts each along the length, as shown by numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 on profiles I and II, and connecting the same numbers with lines. The ruler, connecting the same points, must touch the surface of the finished wing with its entire edge, The leading edge on the convex side of the wing is also processed. Rounding is done "by eye" and adjusted to approximately 1/4 of the profile length (the length of the profile is the width of the wing). The surface of the wings must be cleanly treated with glass paper or a sharp glass edge. The smoother the wing, the more power the wind turbine gives. In order to reduce the harmful effects of atmospheric moisture, the wing should be carefully painted. It should not be primed, as the primer will fall out during work. The best paints for wings are enamel and nitro varnishes. Oil paints reduce the strength of the wood, and therefore should not be used for painting wings. It is necessary to paint at least two layers, and the second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried. The tip of the wing during operation develops a high circumferential speed (up to 200 km / h), and therefore the paint on the front of the wing can be knocked off by hail, snow, etc. To avoid this, the front of the wing should be nailed, as shown in Fig. 1, a plate 50-60 mm wide, cut from the thinnest sheet metal that can be obtained, for example from insulating tubes that are used in electrical wiring. A sheet of tin cannot be nailed, as they will not hold it. It should be attached with wire clips with a diameter of 0,4-0,5 mm (the same as in notebooks), inserting them into the drilled holes and bending their ends in the direction of wing movement. Four or five such paper clips are placed at an equal distance from each other. The ends of the plate must be bent to the wing so that they do not lag behind its plane even by 0,5 mm, since because of this its power may decrease by 30-50%. In the center of the wings, you need to drill a corresponding hole for the generator shaft. The wings are attached to part 4 (Fig. 2 and 8) with two bolts with a thread diameter of 10 mm. Square tin washers must be placed under the nuts; one end of the washer is bent onto item 4, and the other end onto the nut in order to eliminate the self-unscrewing of the nuts during engine operation. The middle hole on part 4 and part 67 (Fig. 5) is shown for the case of fixing the wings on the shaft of the GBT type generator, and therefore it is made on a cone. When the wings are mounted on the shaft of the GAU-4101 generator, the hole is made through cylindrical along the diameter of its shaft. metal wings. Wooden wings are easier to make than metal wings, but they can easily lose their original shape, as a result of which the wind turbine can stop producing the required speed and power. Metal wings are free from this drawback (Fig. 5).
The body of the metal wing is made of mild sheet steel with a thickness of 2,0-2,5 mm. You can also use sheet steel with a thickness of 1,3 to 1,5 mm, but then it is necessary to strengthen the wide part of the wing by riveting to it on 15-20 rivets a steel plate (along the width of the wing) with a thickness of 1,5 mm and a length of 100-150 mm. The length of the wide part of the metal wing is 650 mm and the width in section II is 70 mm and in section II-II is 90 mm. After bending, the wing acquires the shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 5 for two sections. Section II lies at a distance of 35 mm from the outer edge, and section II-II is made along the inner edge of the wing. The required shape of the wing profile is given to the blank laid on the templates by blows of a wooden hammer. At the same time, the profile of the workpiece is periodically checked along sections II and II-II, and the intermediate positions are checked with a ruler, as was indicated for the wooden wing. Templates are made of wood (from plywood) or sheet steel and fixed on a wooden board at a distance of 615 mm from one another. If the wing does not adjoin simultaneously to two templates (even if it suits each template separately and satisfactorily), then it is somewhat twisted, clamping its ends into a vise or wooden levers. The finished wings are inserted into the section of part 66 and riveted with three rivets 5-6 mm thick. Item 66 can also be made without a cut. Then its end for a length of 50-60 mm is forged in a forge so that it gradually thins to a thickness of 2,0-2,5 mm. In this case, item 66 is riveted on the concave side of the wing. When assembling the wings, they first screw on the lock nuts and put on square washers measuring 50x50 mm, and then insert the wings into the hub, wrap them up to the desired limit, set them at the appropriate angle and fix them with a lock nut. locknut. In some cases, for example, in the absence of sheet steel of the required thickness or if you want to use a speed controller, it is more profitable to make a wing from wood (according to the dimensions of a wooden wing, but 650 mm long) and attach it with five, six rivets or bolts with a diameter of 6 mm to part 66 This variant has considerable ease of manufacture, as it makes it possible to reduce the requirements for wood (if there is a slight twist in the wood, this can be straightened out by turning the wing to the appropriate angle). The hub of such wings (item 4 or 67) is attached to the generator shaft on a key that prevents the wings from turning. These parts are pressed with a bolt that is on the generator shaft. Balancing. Wind turbine wings must have the same weight, the same profiles and must rotate strictly in the same plane. To check the weight, you need to put the finished wings on a roller, laid with the ends on two horizontal boards or benches. If the heavier half of the wings outweigh the lighter half, then it should be balanced by attaching an appropriate load to the lighter half. For this, you can wind the required number of turns of steel or lead npQBojiOKH on part 66 (metal wing). On a lighter wooden wing, you have to attach a steel or lead washer with a screw at a distance of 120-150 mm (no more) from the axis of the wings. By picking up a washer of the appropriate weight and rearranging it along the wooden wing, you can achieve the balance of the wings in any position. Such balancing must be carried out indoors to avoid the influence of wind. It is also necessary to check whether both wings rotate strictly in the same plane. To do this, the wings are mounted on the generator shaft and the distance from the lowered end of the wing to any object closest to it, for example, the legs of the table on which this test is carried out, is measured. Then, without touching the generator, carefully turn the wings and determine the distance to the same point on the table from the other wing. If the difference exceeds 2 mm, then the distortion should be eliminated. To do this, the steel wing must be bent accordingly, and with wooden wings, a piece of paper or the thinnest tin should be placed between the wing and part 4 on the corresponding side. Sometimes it is enough to tighten the bolt harder or scrape the part of the surface of the wooden wing adjacent to part 14 very slightly with glass. After such balancing, the wings are painted twice. The second coat of paint is applied after the first has dried. The final balancing is carried out after the second layer of paint has dried, for which it is sometimes enough to apply a few more strokes with a brush on a lighter wing. If during further operation it turns out that the wings "beat" and shake the head, then it is necessary to remove them and check again for weight and rotation in the same plane. Author: Perli S.B.
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