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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING Homemade wind turbine. Installation and adjustment of the wind turbine. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering
Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Alternative energy sources All articles of the project Self-made wind power plant:
Trees, houses, hills, etc. significantly reduce the wind speed and thus interfere with the normal operation of the wind turbine. These obstacles are felt even at a distance of tens and hundreds of meters. Therefore, in order for the wind turbine to work better, it should be installed in the most open places and, if possible, higher, on a support column. The pillar can be fixed on the roof of the house if there are no higher buildings and trees around. The lower part of the pillar in this case is skipped to the ceiling, where it must be firmly fixed. The post must be of such length that the end of the wings is at least 2 m higher than the roof over which it is installed. This is done so that the chimney does not affect the uniformity of the wind flow at the wings. If at a distance of up to 100 m from the future wind turbine there are several buildings or trees higher than the roof on which the wind turbine is supposed to be installed, then the pillar must be placed higher. Sometimes the pole has to be placed not on the roof, but separately from the building, on the ground. Then you need an even higher pole, on which, at equal distances (no more than 4,5-5 m), you will have to put guy wires with a diameter of at least 7 m. In this case, it is necessary to drive crutches 14-16 mm thick into the pole, for in order to be able to be elected up them, as if on a ladder. In the upper section, the pole must be at least 12 cm. In this part of the pole, a longitudinal cut is made with a depth of 20-18 mm, to which the riser 44 is tightly attached. The depth of the cut should be such that the engine stop rod does not touch the pole. At a distance of about 1 m from the top of the column, a working bridge is made (Fig. 11), on which it will then be convenient to stand to inspect and repair the engine. The bridge does this. First, two boards 1 and 2, 30 mm thick and 120 mm wide, are nailed to the pole crosswise (the boards are cut in the middle one into the other into half a tree before that, so that their edges lie in the same plane). Four struts 3 are nailed to the nailed boards and to the pole, serving as brackets for the bridge. From above, three sides of the bridge are upholstered with boards 4, between which gaps of 8-10 mm are left to allow precipitation to pass through. A pole made on the ground with a bridge and a cutout for mounting a wind turbine is lifted and strengthened in its place. In order to avoid noise from the rotation of the engine in the building, it is necessary to lay boards upholstered with old rubber from the car chamber or galoshes between the roof (or ceiling ceiling) and the pillar. If the post is installed on the ground, then its lower (butt) part is buried in a hole about 1 m deep. The wind turbine is mounted on a fixed pole, and the cutout for the riser is checked for verticality by a plumb line, since a wind turbine mounted on an obliquely fixed riser will be poorly installed downwind.
The wind turbine must be carefully inspected before climbing the pole. Bearings should be washed with gasoline (in extreme cases, pure kerosene) and lubricated with oil. All bolts must be well fastened, The cable to stop the engine is lowered along the pole to the ground. If the pole is installed on the roof, then this traction is carried out on blocks so that it can be easily pulled from the ground and thereby stop the engine. When the engine is stopped, the cable is not tensioned instantly, but within 3-4 seconds; these wings are protected from overload and breakage. Before starting the engine for the first time, it is necessary to tie a rope to the end of the tail, near the feather 21, and lower its end down to the ground, so that by pulling the rope sideways, you can stop the engine by pulling it out of the wind. This may be necessary if any defects are suddenly found in the stop mechanism (for example, if the cable breaks).
The gap between the generator and the metal tape covering the collector must be covered with a mixture of wax and grease so that rainwater does not enter the generator housing. The brushes on the generator should be released so that their tension is weaker than when installing the same generator on the car. There is enough pressing force up to 200 g. This will significantly increase the life of the generator (and brushes) and facilitate the operation of the engine in light winds. The electrical wires from the generator, descending down the support pole, are led to insulators fixed on a special bar under the edge of the roof, as shown in fig. 12. From these insulators, the ends of the wires are passed through a hole in the wall of the house. Author: Perli S.B.
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