ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING Homemade wind turbine. Head. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Alternative energy sources All articles of the project Self-made wind power plant:
Parts 10 and 11 (Fig. 6) are cut from mild steel 6 mm thick, and part 12 is forged from steel 10–12 mm thick and at least 50 mm wide. The height of part 12 (rack) is 135 mm and is chosen according to the size of the body of the GAU-4101 generator, which has a diameter of 129 mm. With a different generator diameter, the height of this part should be 6-10 mm larger than the diameter of the body of the taken generator. In the upper part of part 12, one hole with a diameter of 21 mm and four holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled. Two rivets must be passed through two of them and the corresponding holes in part 10, and then the remaining two holes must be drilled so that the second pair of rivets passes through these holes in parts 10 and 12. The centers of the hole with a diameter of 21 mm and the hole corresponding to it on part 10 with a diameter 8 mm must match. Parts 10 and 12 must be fastened with wire rivets with a diameter of about 7,5 mm.
The same is done with item 11. First, it is connected to item 12 in a hand vice or temporary rivets, and then holes are drilled. A hole with a diameter of 42,5 mm must be drilled so that its center exactly coincides with the center of the 8 mm hole in part 10 and with the center of the 2 mm hole in part 12. then a circle with a diameter of 42,5 mm is described from it. If there is no drill with a diameter of 42,5 mm, then you need to drill several holes of smaller diameter close to one another from the inside of this circle and cut the distance between them with a chisel, and then carefully file the hole with a round file. The size of this hole must correspond to the outer diameter (42,5 mm) of the riser pipe (item 42) with its inner diameter of 44-32 mm. In the absence of such a pipe, it can be replaced by a pipe of a larger diameter, respectively changing the diameter of the hole in part 34 (so that it exceeds the outer diameter of the pipe by 11 mm). Most of the remaining parts (32-62) are so simple that they can be made according to the drawing of fig. 7 and 8 without description. Therefore, in the following, mainly a description of the assembly sequence of the engine is given. The wooden rod of the shovel 31 (Fig. 9) must be attached to the part 10 with two bolts. On part 31, place the spring bracket 32 (Fig. 7) and connect all these parts with 6 mm bolts or rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter 0,5 mm less than the diameter of the hole.
Part 33, together with roller 36 (Fig. 8), is placed in the corresponding place of part 10 so that the flat surface of the roller is parallel to the shaft of the side shovel 31, and the thread thrown over the roller freely passes through the center of the middle hole in part 10. In part 10 two holes are drilled through the corresponding holes of part 33 and both these parts are connected with rivets, the heads of which can have a height of 2-3 mm. Rollers 36 are preferably machined on a lathe or sawed into a groove with a file.
Part 35 is also adjusted to the place (Fig. 7) and holes for flanges or rivets are drilled in it and in part 34. Before this, it is necessary to check the position of the cable and install the rollers so that the cable goes through the first roller, goes under the second one and then passes to the third one, without deviating from the average axis of the grooves of all three rollers.
The tail rod 17 (Fig. 9) is made of a pine bar with a length of 1 and a section of 885x45 mm. To the end of it, plumage 45 is nailed, made of roofing steel or plywood. So that the plywood does not get wet from the rains, its ends and the entire surface should be carefully covered with drying oil or tarred. In the tail rod 17, it is necessary to drill (or burn) a hole with a diameter of 12 mm, into which the axis 13 is inserted (Fig. 6). In order for the tail to rotate along with its axis, it is required to fasten them together with a split pin or wire with a diameter of 3 mm, for which 17 and 13 you need to drill the corresponding holes. To avoid cracking the end of the tail shaft at a distance of 10 mm from its beginning, a 6 mm bolt or rivet should be placed that will compress the wood. Washers must be placed under the ends of the rivet or bolt. A cotter pin is then inserted into the tail axis to prevent part 14 from jumping off (Fig. 8). The generator is fixed on the frame in the following order. Let's say we are talking about a tractor generator GBT. The bolts on it (fastening the covers of its body) are too weak so that they can remain intact when the wind turbine is operating with wings directly mounted on the shaft of this generator. Therefore, the covers of the generator housing have to be tightened with additional clamps 7 with strips 9 (Fig. 2). To prevent the clamps from slipping, they must be pulled together with a thin steel wire.
The generator must be installed so that the center of the wings is at a distance of at least 250 mm from the axis of the support pipe 44. This is necessary so that the wings do not touch the pole on which the wind turbine will be installed during any rotation of the head, The generator is attached with bolts 10 mm thick (Fig. 2, item 27) to parts 10 and 1L Between the frame and the generator, parts 26 (Fig. 2 and 6) are placed, which will be adjusted on the spot. The generator must be turned in such a way that the bolts 27 do not pass through its excitation winding. Therefore, care must be taken when drilling and cutting the generator. Since the field coils are usually easily compressed, it is better to remove them, then drill and cut holes for the bolts in the generator housing and then put the coils back in place. The bolts are protected from loosening by tin washers placed under their heads. The easiest way to do this is to make a common plate 28 about 75 mm long, in which to make two holes for bolts 27. The plate is placed under the bolts, and after wrapping their edges, it is bent onto the bolt heads. The support pipe 44 in its upper part has a tip 45 (Fig. 6), which is both a thrust bearing and a bearing on which the engine turns in the direction of the wind. On the tip 45 put 2-3 rings made of white thin tin with an outer diameter of 19 mm and an inner hole in the center of 10 mm. When the frame is assembled, these rings will lie between parts 10 and 45 inside the large hole of part 12. Thick oil (grease), grease or petroleum jelly placed between these rings lasts a long time. This will allow the head to turn into the wind almost as easily as if it were mounted on a ball bearing. Tip 45 does not have to be sharpened on a lathe: it is enough to forge it and then process it with a file. In pipe 44, it should sit very tight. In order to prevent the wind turbine from rising and flying off its seat during operation, it is necessary to make a hole in the riser 44 (above part 11) and insert a pin into it or, even better, make two holes with a diameter of 12-4 parallel to the lower plane of part 5 mm at a distance of 25-30 mm from one another and insert a cotter pin into them. The bottom of the cotter pin (or pin) should be at a distance of 1,0-1,5 mm from part 11, then it will not prevent the entire head from turning downwind around the axis of the riser. Author: Perli S.B. See other articles Section Alternative energy sources. Read and write useful comments on this article. Latest news of science and technology, new electronics: Traffic noise delays the growth of chicks
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