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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Snow scooter. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air No matter what amateur designers do, a better running gear for snow scooters than the repeatedly tested "ski plus pneumatic" combination has not yet been invented. In this opinion, I established myself after I built and tested three variants of snow scooters of my own design in succession. The first car came out with two skis in front and one wheel (camera from UAZ) in the back. She was good in her own way, because she could easily enter any gate, tow a small sled, and also follow the track left by the Buran. The second car already had two wheels at the back, rigidly fixed on the same axle. This gave her increased stability and the ability to carry heavier loads in a sleigh. And, finally, the third car: it is on the same frame as the previous one, but with large wheels, which dramatically increases its cross-country ability. I did not set myself the goal of having transforming snow scooters. However, the last two modifications can be turned into one another at any time. It is enough to replace the front axle and tie rod (while the front supports with skis remain), and the rear wheels and driven sprocket. Also tighten the chain. I want to tell you more about this, the third modification.
The snow scooter is open, single, with front steering skis and rear driving wheels. The engine and most of the electrical equipment are located in front of the driver's seat. Behind the chair is a fairly capacious trunk. I find this arrangement to be beneficial. Firstly, the bridges are evenly loaded, and secondly, when driving, warm air from under the hood heats the driver. The snowmobile does not have a differential. This simplifies the design, improves patency in the snow. The speed on the rolled crust is up to 50 km / h. The machine is capable of pulling sleds with a load of up to 200 kg. Now I will focus on the most important components and assemblies. The largest integral unit of the structure is the frame. It is made in parts that are referred to here as the snow scooter frame, the motor frame, and the driver's seat frame. In this order, I will give their description. The FRAME of the snow scooter is assembled from water pipes. A hood frame made of steel corners is welded to it. For ease of installation and dismantling of the engine, the frame can also be removable (I have it just like that). The engine hood itself, outwardly similar to the "Bu-Ranovsky", is curved from an aluminum sheet and is attached to the frame in four places with screws. The MOTOR FRAME is also made of water pipes. The dimensions shown in the figure and characterizing the mutual arrangement of the lugs should be considered as indicative, since their adjustment is inevitable in accordance with the dimensions of the mating mounts of a particular engine. The motor mount is attached to the frame of the snow scooter by electric welding with reinforcement of the seams with vertical scarves (not shown in the figures). The DRIVER'S SEAT FRAME already has a triple service: the upper steering shaft bearing housing is attached to it in front, the seat with a backrest on top, and the intermediate chain drive gearbox on the bottom. The bearing housing is welded to the longitudinal frame insert; the seat and backrest (they have a wooden base) are screwed to the corresponding loops on the arc; the gearbox is bolted to four vertical brackets-corners. ENGINE - motorcycle (from Izh-Jupiter-5) with forced air cooling. The fan is self-made, located on the right side of the engine and is driven by a rubber belt from a pulley on the generator anchor. To install this pulley, a removable alternator cover was drilled, and the armature-to-flywheel bolt was replaced with a longer one. The engine start system has also undergone minor changes: the kick starter was bent with a blowtorch so that at start-up there was a full crankshaft revolution. Snow scooter electrical equipment - motorcycle, with battery. Designed for a voltage of 12 V. The rectifier unit is borrowed from a car generator. Automotive and relay-regulator R362B. TRANSMISSION of a snow scooter - chain two-stage. The first stage chain (motorcycle) runs between the engine and the intermediate gearbox, and the second stage chain runs between the gearbox and the rear axle. INTERMEDIATE GEARBOX, as already mentioned, is located under the driver's seat and is a simple structure consisting of a shaft and a block of motorcycle sprockets. The big sprocket (z=42) is taken from the rear wheel of the motorcycle. She cut off her "native" hub and welded a new one, in which a closed bearing 203 is placed on the right, and a hub with a small sprocket (z=16) and bearing 202 on the left. The shaft of the intermediate gearbox is located in the slots of the supports and moves in them with the help of two tensioners. The exact position of the block on the shaft relative to the output sprocket of the engine is set by spacers. If this position needs to be changed, then one of the bushings must be shortened, and one or two washers must be added to the other. The chain of the second stage of transmission is brought into working condition with the help of another tensioner located in front of the rear axle. The tensioner is a sprocket (z=42) on a hub with two bearings 203, which rotates on an axle with spacers. The axis is located in the slots of the brackets welded to the frame. REAR AXLE is made with a solid drive shaft. This simplified the design, improved cross-country ability and had little effect on the maneuverability of the snowmobile - even with tenacious tires, the turn is normal. The shaft rotates in two bearings 207. Their housings, which have leather seals, are welded to the cheeks - 6 mm thick sheet steel plates, in which there are holes for attaching to the snow scooter frame. A disc with brake pads is screwed to the right case with four M6 screws. The disk is cut from the casing of the driven sprocket of the motorcycle "Izh". The brake drum is also motorcycle, only it is machined in a lathe from the outside (up to a diameter of 240 and a width of 50 mm) and from the inside (under another hub). The rear wheel drive sprocket (g = 60) is made in a lathe from a circle with a diameter of 350 and a thickness of 10 mm. To do this, the circle was turned on both sides to a thickness of 6 mm and marked with risks corresponding to the diameters of the pitch circle and the circle of the protrusions. (The calculation is not given here, since it was made according to known formulas.) Taking into account the chain pitch, the centers were punched and 60 holes were drilled. The drill matched the diameter of the chain roller. The resulting teeth are modified with a hacksaw blade and a file. The sprocket is attached to its hub with eight M10x1 bolts. The hub on the shaft, like the brake drum, is seated on a key. In addition, three more spacer bushings are put on the shaft. The spokes and rims of the wheels are welded from steel pipes. The design of the disks is quite clear from the figure, so I will not linger on it. I will focus only on what is not in the picture. Eight M8 bolts are welded to each rim from the outside for attaching transverse bandages - pieces of a 10 mm thick conveyor belt that attract pneumatics to the rims. There are also longitudinal bandages from a fire hose. Longitudinal and transverse tires are connected at the points of their intersection with special bolts. The ends of the bolts with nuts are turned outward and serve as ground or, more precisely, snow lugs for the wheels. STEERING. The steering shaft is a vertical steel tube with a diameter of 32 mm, turning in two plain bearings with rubber bushings. A steering wheel from an Electron scooter (with a gas sector from a Buran snowmobile) is put on the upper end of the shaft, and a steering arm made from a bicycle pedal connecting rod is welded to the lower end. A longitudinal steering rod is attached to the bipod, which goes to the rocking chair on the snow scooter frame. In turn, the rocker is connected by a leash to the front axle tie rod. The leash and all the rods here are with tips that have two degrees of freedom.
FRONT AXLE - easily removable, is a pipe with a diameter of 42 mm with screws welded in the upper part for fastening to the snow scooter frame. Vertical sleeves are welded to the ends of the pipe, reinforced with bandages - strips of sheet steel 3 mm thick. Front forks borrowed from bicycles, along with bearings, are inserted into the sleeves. At the back, steering arms are welded to them (from the connecting rods of bicycle pedals), and from the bottom - hinge bushings with home-made links attached to them and shock absorbers from the Voskhod-2M motorcycle. The SKIS of the snow scooter consist of steel frames and nylon bases connected by rivets and tubes at the nose (for strength). The bases were obtained from a nylon pipe with a wall thickness of 10 mm as follows: first, I cut a workpiece out of the pipe with an ordinary saw on wood. To straighten them, I heated them along the entire length with a blowtorch, laid them between two thick boards and crushed them with a load. When the blanks cooled down, I heated their spouts again, bent them as they should, and cooled them with water. Skis with such a base have very good glide. The figure shows that the skis have undercuts. Each of them consists of two bars with a diameter of 6 mm, screwed to the skis from below.
The MUFFLER is welded from 1,5 mm thick steel sheet. A mesh baffle is inserted inside it to reduce exhaust noise. BRAKING MECHANISM - foot, with wheel drive. The pedal (it is under the driver's right foot) was borrowed from the Electron scooter. From it to the brake pads of the rear axle there is a two-arm rod from a bar with a diameter of 7 mm. Of course, the design of my snow-kata is far from ideal. And I keep improving it. I plan to soon install a reverse gear instead of an intermediate gear, increase the width of the skis. And I also want to ride this car in the summer, although it does not have a differential. Of course, I will replace the skis with the front wheels, and I will remove the lugs from the rear ones - for better maneuverability. Author: A.Klimenko
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