Hairdryer for welding. Drawing, description

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Hairdryer for welding. home workshop

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I bring to the attention of home craftsmen (and not only home ones) a device for welding plastics. However, it can also be used to solve a variety of tasks of technical creativity - for example, to blow solder from dismantled electronic circuit boards. After all, the temperature of the air leaving the nozzle-tube will reach 300 ° C, and it will take only 5 - 8 minutes to warm up.

Welding dryer

The device (Fig. 1) is assembled in the form of a gun - the most convenient form for work. And I used an old impulse soldering iron (PTSI-100 GOST 7219-69) as the basis for it. from which the entire working part has been removed, except for the switch (22) located in the handle (21).

The empty metal body of the soldering iron is sawn with a hacksaw along the metal (horizontally), and the separated upper part is cut in half lengthwise ) made of thin (26 mm) fluoroplastic, which will serve to attach to the handle (27) the new working part of the device, that is, the outer ceramic tube (2) with a diameter of 20 mm. For the same purpose, holes are drilled for the tightening angles (23) from above to the mentioned halves of the body of the soldering iron (1), in their rear part. And in the front side of these halves there are already ready-made threaded holes, where the screws of the tie plates (21) are pre-bent, as shown in the figure. The fastening is tightened with the help of studs and nuts (3, 50). But first, it is necessary to cover the heating body of the device (26) with heat-insulating tapes (10, 8) from the same fluoroplastic as the tightening tapes. Before assembling the device, it is necessary to insert in advance into the handle and connect to the switch a flexible electrical wire (29) withstanding current up to 30A, and bring the ends out to connect to the heating part.

The basis of the device, of course, is its working part, namely the heating element (7), which is a quartz halogen incandescent lamp (for example, KT220-500-1 from the Photon photo illuminator), Its surface is heated to 470 ° C. It is placed in a tubular ceramic casing (4). For better heat transfer, its tube from the inside can be carefully pasted over (using PF-14 glue) with aluminum wrapping foil, carefully smoothing it out. It is necessary to paste over only the place where the lamp is directly installed, without going beyond the rear base.

Rice. 1. "Air" soldering iron (click to enlarge): 1 - nozzle (copper tube 6,5x4x48); 2 - bushing (ceramic or electro-porcelain); 3- housing (ceramic tube 50x38x155); 4 - heater casing (ceramic or electroporcelain tube 30x20x185); 5 - thermal insulation (asbestos cord Ø5, length about 5000); 6-bracket (contact steel bar 10x2x167); 7- heater (quartz halogen incandescent lamp KG220-500-1); 8 - front tightening corners (2 pcs.); 9 - top heat-insulating tape (PTFE 125x130x1), 10 - rear tightening bracket (2 pcs.); 11 - small bracket (contact steel bar 10x2x35), 12 - fixing screw (МЗх10); 13 - contact screw (as well as for fixing the adapter, M3x14), 14 - adapter (fluoroplastic) for the fitting and heater casing; 15 - fitting for the injection hose (duralumin); 16 - stop adjusting screw (МЗх10); 17 - contact screw (as well as for fixing the bracket, M3x13); 18 - flexible electrical wire (Ø2, current up to 5A); 19 - safety screen (fluoroplast, 65x60x22x1); 20 - rear tape tie (fluoroplast, 140x36x1), 21 - handle of the welding tool (from the PCI-100 soldering iron, GOST 7219-69); 22 - trigger switch (from the PCI-100 soldering iron, GOST 7219-69); 23- front tape tie (fluoroplastic, 120x36x1); 24 - lower thermal insulation tape (fluoroplastic, 125x36x1); 25 - nozzle to the nozzle (bronze tube for small jobs); 26 - parts from the body of the soldering iron, 27 - aluminum rivet (Ø2x4, 8 pcs.); 28 - mounting bolt of the rear tightening angle (M3x8,2 pcs.); 29 - pin of the rear coupling assembly (M3x55); 30- pin of the front coupling unit (M3x30); 31 - insulating gasket (fluoroplast)

A bracket (6) with a contact assembly in the front part, consisting of a spring plate, a spring and a screw, is mounted inside the housing for installing the lamp. The end of the bar is fixed with a screw (17), which simultaneously serves as a current-carrying element. A corner small bracket (11) is attached above it, which is the second contact. In the drawing, between both of these contacts, in the place of their close location, a thin fluoroplastic gasket (17) installed above the screw (31) is visible; but you can simply cover this place with heat-resistant varnish or PF-14 glue).

After the installation of the lamp is completed, it remains to install a ceramic bushing (2) and a copper "soldering" tube - nozzle (1) in front of the housing, which are fastened with heat-resistant glue PF-14. You can use a thermoelectric insulating paste made from a mixture of talc and liquid glass (office glue). It is better to make the side of the bushing a slightly larger diameter, that is, not 30, but 32 mm - then we will get a shoulder, which will serve as an additional stop for packing from asbestos cord (5) in case it is weakened.

The winding of an asbestos cord, which serves as the main thermal insulation. it is better to carry out before installation of a lamp and contact levels. It is laid tightly over the entire surface of the heater casing (4), not reaching the screw holes. Then they put on the body - a ceramic tube (3) and only then proceed to install the strips and the lamp.

The rear adapter sleeve (14) for the hose from the vacuum cleaner is also made of fluoroplast, but it can also be made of textolite, since this part almost does not heat up, since it is under constant blowing with cold air. It is fixed with a screw (13), which simultaneously serves as the second current-carrying element.

Rice. 2. Variant of the heating element (click to enlarge): 1 - glass tubes (3 pcs.); 2 - spiral (nichrome wire); 3 - contacts of the spiral; 4 - adapter, 5 - adapter fixing screw; 6 - fitting

The fitting (15) is made of aluminum alloy. And the adapter to the vacuum cleaner with the same fitting for the second version of the device (Fig. 2, 6) is made under the cone of an aluminum tube mounted on the hose of the vacuum cleaner; it is inserted inside this tube and held there by air pressure. Instead of a halogen lamp, you can use the second version of the device (Fig. 2), where the heating element with a power of 600 to 1000 W consists of a nichrome wire (2) with a diameter of 0,5 mm and three glass tubes (1), which are cut out from both ends with ledges for free passage of air. Since nichrome, when heated, comes into contact with oxygen, oxidizes and burns out, it is advisable to cover the finished spiral with PF-14 glue, heat-resistant varnish or already known paste before installation.

You can do without tubes altogether by stringing short ceramic insulators on a spiral, which are sold in hardware stores along with a spiral for tiles or irons; or even do without them, if you thickly smear all the bends of the spiral with paste, thereby isolating it. The principle of operation of the welding device is as follows. Firstly, on a vacuum cleaner (if there is no separate compressor), a hose is thrown from the suction socket to the outlet. Before the lamp turns on, the vacuum cleaner (or compressor) is turned on. The pressure should be small, about 0,2 kg / cm2: the more the air presses, the lower its temperature at the outlet of the nozzle. After that, pressing the trigger turns on the welding gun, first until the required temperature is reached. And later, due to the thermal inertia of the heated ceramics, the lamp turns on for a short time, maintaining the required temperature. (Attention! Do not turn on the device without air supply!).

Thick sheets of plastics are best welded with an additive from a similar rod. The joints of linoleum are well connected, the edges are not charred, which inevitably occurs when working with a contact heater. Polyethylene also welds well, while the seam can be of any configuration.

Author: A.Nazarov

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