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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Aquaped float. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air The Moscow inventor Y. Solovyov came up with a small aquaped float, on which you can’t drown and work with your feet as usual: you have to walk like on the ground. It develops speed of 6-8 km / h. This aquaped is arranged very simply, anyone who owns a metalwork tool can make it.
When designing an aquaped, we, in essence, have to solve one problem: to convert the reciprocating movement of the legs into a continuous rotation of the screw in one direction. Typically, designers use a hard pedal drive for this. The swimmer lies down on a torpedo-shaped bicycle and, as it were, is attached to it, depends on the apparatus, and not vice versa. Solovyov did not like this. He threw a strong cord over the drive pulley of his aquaped, and fastened stirrups at the ends of the cord. The swimmer's legs became free, no need to turn any pedals - walk as you like. It is very comfortable. At each step, the cord is rewound on the pulley and rotates the shaft first in one direction, then in the other. At the other end of the shaft is a drive gear that rotates the driven gears. They alternately turn on the ratchet half-couplings, passing through them the rotation, already directed in one direction, to the propeller shaft. The construction of an aquaped should begin, perhaps, with a pulley. This is a cylinder with a diameter and a height of 40 mm. You can make it from hardwood: oak, hornbeam, beech. Pine and aspen are not suitable - they wear out quickly. To prevent the cord from jumping off the pulley, make helical grooves on it. Their pitch is about 5-6 mm. Grooves are easy to machine on a lathe. In the pulley, you need to make (you can burn out) a square hole for the shaft with a side of 7 mm. The shaft will transmit rotation to the drive wheel, it is round, its length is 100 mm, its diameter is 10 mm. Make both ends of the shaft also square for the holes in the pulley and drive wheel. When the pulley and wheel sit on the shaft, secure them with M4 screws with washers. Now let's move on to the more difficult part of the aquaped - the reverse. It needs three gears - a large bevel gear and two driven bevel gears. Gears from an ordinary drill would be the most suitable, but you are unlikely to find two "extra". You will probably have to turn to adult turners to make you a bevel gear with a gear ratio of 2: 1.
The driven gears must be placed on the propeller shaft completely freely so that they scroll easily. Of course, they will not transmit movement to the screw, but between them there must be two ratchet half-couplings, which are connected to the shaft through a key. In passing, one remark: make the notch on the shaft for the key a little longer (but not wider!) Keys so that the couplings can move slightly along the shaft. The clutches are spring loaded and tend to engage with the gears. However, they cannot do it at the same time. For example, the drive wheel is scrolling to the left. This means that the left gear rotates away from us and engages with its ratchet half-coupling. At the same time, the right gear is turning towards us. And since the teeth of the coupling halves are the same, the right one clicks and cracks like a racing bike ratchet. When the drive wheel starts to rotate in the other direction, then the right gear will start spinning away from us and will engage with its ratchet half-coupling, and the left will click. As a result, the propeller shaft will rotate constantly AND in one direction from us, without visible stops. The pulley, reverse and part of the propeller shaft must be placed in the housing. It can be made from plywood or canvas impregnated with epoxy. The shape of the hull should be streamlined. The last requirement applies to all nodes. Therefore, the screw must be enclosed in a safety ring. It organizes the flow by making the jets of water flow in a certain order. Thus, the efficiency rises to 30%. Our ring consists of a intake cone. It is wide and, when viewed from the front, has the shape of an ellipse. Inside, he descends into a cone. Then comes the straightener in the form of four fixed blades - such are even on jet engines. The blades straighten the flow and also increase efficiency. The next part is the cylindrical channel, where the screw is located and, finally, the reverse cone, the purpose of which is to reduce the loss at the outlet of the expanding water flow. The best cord is obtained from an ordinary rope, and stirrups from flippers. It is only necessary to cut off their front flexible part so that the fingers protrude slightly. Pass the ends of the cord through the heel part of our upgraded fins, as shown in the picture. The inventor of the aquaped also came up with an original pitch regulator. It is a plastic plate with four holes. A cord is passed through them in such a way that an overlap is obtained. The peculiarity of this lock is that during swimming it holds the cord tightly, but if you drag the plate with your hand, it will easily move. And finally, the last one. Aquaped must be attached to the body. To do this, screw a substrate made of a sheet of duralumin about a millimeter thick to the body. Width 300, length - 400 mm. The front part is desirable to reduce to a cone. Bend the edges of the backing so that it fits snugly and comfortably against the stomach. Aquaped is easy to make unsinkable. Buy a rubber pillow, knock out holes for the strap on the edges of the substrate and tie the (inflated, of course) pillow tightly. Now it remains to find a wide and durable belt, it can be a canvas, or better an officer's belt. Punch out two holes along the edges of the backing and for this strap. Now securely fasten your aquaped bobber and off you go! Author: L.Ratov
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