A sailboat based on a motorboat. Drawing, description

PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
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A sailboat based on a motorboat. Personal transport

Personal transport: land, water, air

Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air

Every year more and more reservoirs become "closed" for motorized vessels. What in this case should fans of motorized tourism do? Laying down your ships? In no case! It's time to think about the sail. Sailing gear can be a real alternative to a rattling, fuming, water-polluting outboard motor.

The feeling that I experienced when I put the sailing equipment on my Yuzhanka motorboat cannot be described. You have to know it yourself. Instead of the noise of the engine, I was suddenly surrounded by silence, and it was broken only by the rustling of the water over the sides and the whistle of the wind in the gear.

During five years of operation, sailing equipment has proven itself well. The conclusion is obvious - the main engine today should be the sail, and the outboard motor can be left only as an auxiliary means.

Sailboat based on a motorboat

The first thing you need to have on a motorboat in order to sail and with a fair wind, and against the wind - in a tack, is swivel keels, or, as they are also called, shvers, which significantly reduce the drift of the boat - drift.

Shvertsy are made of boards with dimensions of 15x400x135 mm. At the top they are fastened with a rail 15x25x400 mm, in the middle - with a wooden block 40x40x400 mm - they rest against the side of the boat. at the bottom of each. of the swivel keel, a load is fixed with screws - a steel strip 15x80x400 mm weighing about 5 kg - it is necessary so that the shverts does not float up. Two metal plates 3 mm thick with a hole Ø 21 mm are fixed on the upper part, intended for hanging on the crossbar.

Rice. 1. Sailboat based on the Yuzhanka motorboat (click to enlarge): 1 - mainsail, 2 - armor, 3 - boom, 4 - steering gear, 5 - boom sheet, 6 - shverts-tal, 7 - guy, 8 - soft lanyard, 9 - mast, 10 - staysail, 11 - stay, 12 - sailboat hull, 13 - schwertz, 14 - rudder blade, 15 - tiller, 10 - cross member, 17 - bracket

Rice. 2. Steering device (click to enlarge): 1 - wooden inserts, 2 - block, 3 - baller box, 4 - rudder blade, 5 - bolt, 6 - filling (wood), 7 - tiller

Rice. 3. Baller box (click to enlarge): development and cutting scheme

To lift the screws, each has holes through which nylon cables are passed. Their second end is laid in the boat for the duck. The front and rear edges are streamlined.

The crossbar is a steel bar Ø 20 mm and 1360 mm long. On both sides of it, threads are cut in sections of 100 mm. The screws are mounted on the crossbar, and each is clamped between two nuts.

With strong waves, hydrodynamic forces arise between the rotary keels, so you should not use two screws at the same time. It makes sense to lower the left tack if the boat is on the left tack, and vice versa, the right one if the wind is blowing from the right.

The boat transom needs to be improved. A hole Ø 6 mm should be drilled along its diametrical plane for the steering wheel hinges. They must be positioned so that they do not interfere with mounting the engine. The holes for the mating parts of the hinges on the baler box are drilled "in place", in accordance with the location of the holes on the transom.

The mast of the sailboat is wooden, glued together from two boards 3050 mm long. Its cross section at the base is 70x70 mm, and the diameter at the top is 55 mm. At a distance of 50 mm from the base, a hole was drilled in the mast and a tube with an inner diameter of 10,5 mm was inserted - the bearing of the mast hinge. A yoke is put on the top of the mast - a fitting for fixing the shrouds, stay and staysail block on it.

The baler box is bent from 0,9 mm thick galvanized steel sheet. Sheet dimensions - 400x600 mm. First, holes for the hinges are marked and drilled and windows for the tiller and sorlin are cut out. The box is cut to the dimensions shown in the picture. Textolite pads are inserted between her cheeks and fastened to them with M5 screws.

The rudder blade, profiled in cross section, is cut out of a board 10 mm thick. It is located between the cheeks of the balar box; its axis is bolt 8. A hole is drilled on it for fixing the sorlin, then it passes through the block and into the gap between the baler box and the feather. At the opposite end of the sorline there is a ring, which, when the rudder blade is raised, is laid inside the boat.

Sailing armament of the "gafel sloop" type. The area of the main sail - the grotto - is about 10 m2. It took about 18 running meters of fabric. I recommend purchasing a thin and durable material with sufficient air tightness. When choosing a fabric, use a fairly simple "test": attach the flap tightly to your lips and blow hard. Only a fabric that is practically not blown is suitable for you. These are cushion teak, reps, cape. Percale and bologna are also suitable. Before opening the sails, all material is soaked for several hours in water, and then dried and smoothed. In the middle of the panel for its entire length, stitch false 30 mm wide. To do this, fold the cloth in half and iron the crease. Further, having measured 30 mm from the bend, it is necessary to overcast the place of the future seam, and then sew this line on the sewing machine. Then the stitched part is folded over, and two more lines are “passed” along it.

Let's start laying the sails. The length of the first two pieces is 3 m. They are folded with edges and sewn together, then the seam allowance is folded over and another seam is made.

Rice. 4. Sailing armament of motorboat "Yuzhanka" (click to enlarge): A - staysail, B - mainsail, C - cutting of the first panels

Rice. 5. Shverts (right) (click to enlarge): 1 - overlay, 2, 4 - slats, 3 - feather of the shverts, 5 - load

Now spread the resulting double panel on the floor and draw a diagonal on the first piece with chalk (Fig. 4). Then a perpendicular descends to it from the second piece - it will serve as the axis of the luff. A notch is made on the diagonal 1/3-1/4 of its length from the tack angle, and the largest bulge of the lower luff is laid perpendicular to it - about a mm. The bulge of the luff is a curved curve. Cut off the excess material, and you can start docking the rest of the sail panels.

When cutting pieces of material, keep in mind that the overlap of the panels should be at least 50 mm. At a height of 1700 mm from the front (tack) angle, a cut 50 mm long is made for the gaff. The axis of the luff is located at a distance of 450 mm from the axis of the luff. The largest bulge of the luff is about 100 mm.

After stitching all the panels, spread the future sail on a flat area, cut along all edges and sheathe it with a strip of fabric about 100 mm wide. Strengthen the corners of the sail - sew scarves made of dense material on them - bows. A nylon cable is sewn to the luffs of the sail. In order for the sail to keep its shape better, it has battens - flexible wooden plates 3 mm thick, located in battens. Similarly to the mainsail, the front sail is cut out - the staysail.

Of course, the Yuzhanka with a sail is not a sports yacht, it has quite a lot of resistance and is a bit heavy with a crew of four. But nevertheless she sails quite well, and I am sure that if you follow my example, you will get tremendous satisfaction from the sail and, I hope, completely forget about the engine.

Author: V.Chupikov

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