Land sailboat. Drawing, description

PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
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Land sailboat. Personal transport

Personal transport: land, water, air

Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air

Wheeled boat, beach sailboat, sand yacht, windmobile... All these terms refer to the same type of vehicles that use the power of the wind to move. There are a great many designs of such "wind walkers", from year to year more and more new ones are being developed - on three wheels and on four, with a Latin sail and with Bermuda weapons, with rigid planes resembling an airplane wing, and even with a horizontally located turntable, similar to an anemometer impeller .

We bring to your attention a sandy yacht of the most common scheme today - with a Bermuda cat mud rig and a three-wheeled bogie, the front wheel of which serves as a steering wheel. Despite its relatively small size, this unique sailing kart can reach speeds of up to 50 km/h! Make a few of these "cars" with your friends and you will be able to organize real races, of course, in areas where there are fairly flat fields and constant and strong winds blow. However, you can ride this sailboat at the school stadium or even along the country road.

The basis of the sailboat bogie are two pine spars with a section of 40x60 mm each. The bars are assembled using a cross-beam with a section of 60x70 mm in the form of the letter A. Additionally, the frame is reinforced in the front part with an S10 plywood scarf and in the middle and rear parts with two strips of the same plywood 150 km wide. All frame elements are joined with epoxy glue and M6 bolts.

For the rear axle, you will need a pine or spruce board with a section of 25x150 mm and a length of 1900 mm. Take a closer look at the choice of material. Since the bridge beam also serves as a transverse spring, the board must be straight-layered, preferably without knots and bundles. The beam is joined to the frame spars using 8 mm bolts or studs and epoxy glue.

The front swivel wheel (dutik from a Danish bicycle) is fixed in the bicycle fork. It turns in the hub - the front of the same bike, cut from the old frame along with a piece of horizontal pipe. The sleeve is clamped between the spars, and its horizontal tube is screwed to the plywood scarf of the frame with 6 mm bolts.

The beach sailboat is steered by pedals connected by steering cables to a 5 mm thick metal plate screwed to the front of the fork.

Rice. 1. Structural scheme of a land sailboat (click to enlarge): 1 - boom, 2 - mast, 3 - rigging for fastening shrouds and stay, 4 - shrouds and stay, 5 - screw lanyard, 6 - frame spars, 7 - front wheel fork, 8 - sail, 9 - bayfoot of the boom, 10 - clamp for fixing the pedal axis, 11 - brake lever handle, 12 - brake lever, 13 - boss, 14 - plywood frame cross member, 15 - seat, 16 - headrest, 17 - seat sidewall, 18 - plywood cross member, 19 - rear axle beam, 20 - brake cable mounting bracket, 21 - brake lever axle, 22 - control pedals

The rear wheels - from the Verkhovyna or Riga-16 moped - are hung on brackets curved from a steel strip with a section of 4X60 mm. The brackets are attached to the rear axle beam with two 8-mm bolts each. Fixation of the brake drum - steel pin screwed into the beam. The axles of the wheels are fixed in the bracket with two nuts and washers, followed by locking with soft wire.

The pedals associated with the steering wheel are located on the cross member of the frame. The easiest way to make them is from a bicycle handlebar, a bushing and a clamp that secures the steering wheel to the bike.

The brake lever is cut from a wooden block with a section of 25x70 mm. A handle from a bicycle steering wheel is put on its upper part. It is desirable to strengthen the holes (for the axle and the cable thimble) with metal bushings - pipe segments. The cables in the Bowden sheath are laid from the brake drums of the rear wheels to two steel "corner" profiles, bolted to the frame in the area of the middle plywood cross member. Further through the cable tension equalizer - to the brake lever.

The seat is assembled from S10 plywood according to the picture. Docking of individual parts - on duralumin corners and M4 screws. In the upper part of the backrest, install a head restraint - a foam sponge lined with artificial leather.

The design of the mast is entirely up to you; it is best to use a duralumin tube with a diameter of about 40 mm - for this, oh, a jumping pole is quite suitable. A good mast will also be made of wood, especially if you assemble it from several rails with epoxy glue.

The mast is moored with a stay and shrouds. For them, steel wire Ø 1,5 mm or steel cable Ø 2 mm is suitable. To adjust the tension of the rigging, use the turnbuckles.

The sail area is about 4 m2. It can be sewn from a dense windproof fabric - for example, cushion teak, tent fabric or bologna. The panels are located parallel to the leech of the sail, and are sewn together with a zigzag seam. The back and bottom leech are sheathed with a tape cut from the same material. A mast pocket is sewn to the front luff - the same as on a windsurfer's sail (sailboard).

The first tests of a land sailboat are best done with a dead wind. First of all, check the reliability of the brakes and the operation of the steering. Then orient the sailboat so that the wind direction is perpendicular to the selected course ("gulfwind"). Pick up the loose sheet until the sail stops rinsing, then accelerate the yacht until you feel that it is moving without your help. On the move, climb into the seat and choose the sheet - by this time the sail, as a rule, begins to rinse. When working with sheets, keep the sail on the verge of rinsing its luff all the time - in this case, its thrust will be maximum.

Rice. 2. Sand yacht frame. Rice. 3. Fastening the stay and shrouds to the mast. Rice. 4. The geometric scheme of the sail. Rice. 5. Fastening the boom to the mast. Rice. 6. Clip and split ring. Rice. 7. Rear wheel bracket. Rice. 8. Installing the rear wheel. Rice. 9. Brake lever. Rice. 10. Seat. Rice. 11. Installing the front fork. Rice. 12. Design of the pedals (click to enlarge)

The most difficult and even dangerous turns. If you intend to tack, that is, the bow of the vessel to cross the line of the wind, begin to select the sheet in advance and at the same time bring to the wind. Crossing the head-to-head position (when the wind blows exactly "on the forehead"), pull the sail tightly and immediately after passing this position, loosen it, at the same time falling off into the wind.

Be careful when using the brakes. Before braking, loosen the sheet, letting the sail work in weather vane mode, otherwise you risk capsizing.

Author: A.Sudets

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