Non-spill engine. Drawing, description

PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
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Non-spill engine. Personal transport

Personal transport: land, water, air

Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air

Once, when I went to my neighbors, I saw on the desk of their seventh-grader son Volodya Prokhorov an unusual device - a colored cylinder with a propeller. I took a closer look, I see - a homemade product, but I don’t understand how it works.

(click to enlarge)

I asked Volodya to tell. With a sly smile, he turned the top hat over and placed it back on the table. The propeller immediately spun merrily, driving a light breeze around the room.

Then the young inventor discovered the secret. Digging through some old magazines, he accidentally found a note telling about an interesting idea - a sand engine. The author of the invention, F. Antonenko, proposed an engine whose operating principle resembled a medical hourglass. It was arranged like this.

(click to enlarge)

The two chambers were connected by a pipe, in the middle of which there was a turbine, similar to the wheel of a water mill. It was enough to start the engine, that is, turn it over, and the sand through a special hole began to pour down, fell on the turbine blades and rotated them.

Volodya liked the idea of the engine, and he decided to test it on a model. He took out fine sand, soldered a cylinder, a pipe with a turbine ..

But things did not go further than this, and the reason for this was the mover, that is, sand. He got into the bearing units of the model and jammed them. From the seals, which would not allow sand to flow into the bearings, the young experimenter refused. And that's why. Firstly, due to the relatively small size of the model, it is very difficult to make them. Secondly, any seals are known to create resistance to the rotation of the shaft. And the power of a small device might not be enough to overcome it.

Then Volodya Prokhorov decided to replace the sand with ordinary water, and make the internal bulkheads of the engine housing according to the principle of a non-spill inkwell.

As soon as the design of the engine was clear, the question immediately arose - what material to use to build it? Decided to try thin sheet celluloid. First, I calculated the approximate size of the engine housing. From celluloid I cut out a blank 400x750 mm (gluing allowance 3 mm). I glued a cylinder-body out of it (Fig. 1 and 2). I did it carefully and accurately, otherwise, when gluing, cracks could form, and then the water would begin to pour out of the cylinder. The blanks were glued together with nitro glue prepared from acetone and pieces of celluloid dissolved in it. By the way, you can also use purchased adhesives, for example, "Supercement" or "Mekol".

To cut the bottoms, I used a circular cutter (Fig. 3). It is made from an ordinary school compass - instead of a stylus, a sharply sharpened piece of hardened steel wire is inserted into the collet. Perhaps the most responsible and time-consuming operation is the assembly of water tanks. They are glued together from the same celluloid film as the case. First, circles are cut out along the diameter of the body, holes are made in them with a diameter of 35-40 mm. Cylinders 85-90 mm high are made according to the size of the holes - they are hermetically glued into circles. But that is not all. In order for water to flow out of the working chambers, nozzle tubes with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of 25-30 mm must be glued into the base of the containers. The nozzle can be made like this. Heat the celluloid blank in boiling water, and when it becomes plastic, wind it on a steel knitting needle with a diameter of slightly less than 3 mm. Then glue the workpiece, dry it. Glue the finished tube into the base of the container. You can make the nozzle in a different way. Dip the steel needle into the melted paraffin. Let it cool, and then apply several layers of thick nitro glue to the knitting needle, which, after drying, forms an even tube. To make it easy to remove from the mandrel, dip the needle in warm water - and the tube will come off the spoke.

The assembled bulkheads can be glued into the hull, stepping back from its edges by about 100 mm.

Now it's the turn for the turbine (Fig. 2). Its blades are also cut out of film. Cut from it blanks with a diameter of about 140 mm (there may be three or four). Cut each circle into two halves and glue the workpieces to the wire axis, previously covered several times with nitro-glue.

As soon as the glued turbine dries, fill the joints with the axle with glue for reliability. Glue thick celluloid washers-bearings to the body, and shorten the spoke-axle so that one end is flush with the body wall, and the other protrudes 15-20 mm beyond it (this size depends on the purpose of the engine). After that, the turbine can be installed in place. It should rotate freely, without jamming.

It remains to glue the bottoms into the body - and the model is ready,

But what about water? - you ask. It fills up last. If the body of the model is transparent, I advise you to slightly tint the water with colored ink or aniline dyes. Fill the engine with "fuel" so. Poke a small hole in the bottom of the case, insert a tube into it and pour water through it. After refueling, seal the hole with a plug from the film. This is how the non-spill engine of Volodya Prokhorov works.

So, you have learned about an unusual engine that does not require electricity, gas, or gasoline to operate. Can it be applied in life? It turns out you can. Volodya's mom uses, for example, her son's homemade product when ... cleaning and cutting onions! She places a fan powered by a non-spill engine nearby, and it blows away the caustic onion fumes. (This microfan is shown in Figure 4A.) Or you can use a non-spill motor to drive models such as those in our Figures 4B, 4C, and 4D.

Author: V.Novikov

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