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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Greenhouse greenhouse. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master The idea to make such a greenhouse was inspired by two things that at first glance have nothing in common: industrial arched storage warehouses and, oddly enough ... fishing. The first suggested the idea of an arched structure, the second - to use a flexible vine or young shoots of trees (birch, walnut, bird cherry, etc.) as bearing semi-arcs - whips, often used by fishermen as rods. The result was a cheap and simple structure, it did not require either scarce materials or a specially equipped workshop. A hatchet, a hammer, a hacksaw, a brace or a drill, a knife, scissors, pliers, and even a soldering iron and a file - that's all the tools for the job. The amount of materials needed depends on the selected sizes. So, with a greenhouse height of 1 m and a length of 3 m, you will need 15 m2 of plastic film, three logs or fairly thick poles 3,5 m long, four support pegs 1,5 m long, one board per ridge 3,2 m long , four metal staples or scarves, some nails, pieces of millimeter soft wire, four poles along the length of the greenhouse and, finally, twelve flexible rods for supporting half-arcs 1,5 m long. If you are planning a greenhouse of human height (1,8 m) with a length of 2 m, then you will need three logs of Ø 150-200 mm and a length of 2,2 m for longitudinal connections, three logs of the same diameter 2,5 m long for support stakes, ten rods for half-arcs Ø 25-30 mm and 2,9 m long. With sectional construction, the greenhouse can be extended as far as the size of the site and the availability of materials allow. It is advisable to start the work with the preparation of the longitudinal nodes of the frame. In each log or pole, drill holes for flexible rods with a drill (see picture). In addition, on each, make three cuts for the fixing brackets. Then proceed to the preparation of racks-supports. From the upper edge of the support, measure a distance equal to the height of the greenhouse, and drill a through hole for the stop-limiter, and sharpen the lower end of the rack. Process the ends of the flexible rods on both sides so that they fit effortlessly, but tightly enough, into the lower and upper holes of the longitudinal ties. Now you can take up the installation of the main frame.
Having dug vertical stakes-racks into the ground to the stop-limiter, attach one of the marked longitudinal logs to them using metal brackets or wooden planks so that the holes for the rods are strictly horizontal. Insert flexible rods into these holes on both sides of the upper longitudinal connection. After that, at a distance from the vertical posts, equal to their height, lay the longitudinal logs on both sides and fix them with metal brackets (you can also use wooden pegs), and then, carefully bending in an arc, insert the rods into the holes of the longitudinal logs. The free holes remaining along the edges of the logs serve to fasten the end walls, but this will be discussed below. The next operation is covering the frame with plastic wrap. Wrap the required amount of film on a long pole, and wrap the second same pole with the free end of the film in two turns and nail it to the top of the frame (see picture). Unwinding the film, lay it on half-arcs up to the lower longitudinal log and secure with nails. After covering both sides of the greenhouse with a film, cover the junction of the poles with a ridge board so that water does not accumulate. Prepare the end walls of a small greenhouse from plywood or boards. It is more difficult with high greenhouses. In this case, I recommend making the end walls as follows: prepare flexible rods (the same as for the half-arcs of the frame), wrap them in two layers with plastic film and secure them along the edges with nails; then cut out a ledge in the film with scissors for the upper longitudinal connection and, carefully bending the rods, insert them into the holes of the lower longitudinal logs. In the lower corners of the end wall it is also necessary to make cutouts for longitudinal logs. Both half-walls must be made so that they overlap each other by 100-150 mm. I fastened the half-walls using soft wire Ø 1 mm, which I used to connect two adjacent half-arches - the end wall and the supporting frame. The remainder of the film from below can be wound around a stick, pipe, or simply pressed with some kind of weight, for example, a brick. I note that it is advisable to make one of the walls of the greenhouse blank, so the film should be wrapped around the half-arc and welded with a soldering iron along the entire length. So, the main work is completed. It remains only to carefully check all the joints of the film, so that when the wind in places of loose connection does not occur "sail", which is clearly undesirable. In conclusion, I will add that a similar design can also be used as a temporary shelter from the rain of vegetables and fruits during harvesting. Author: M.Simakov
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