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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Plumbing tips. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master If you want to save money, time and nerves, try to repair plumbing yourself. This case is not very difficult, but requires some experience and confidence. The meaning of these tips is to convey experience to those who wish and give them the necessary confidence in success. As you know, the most common plumbing defect is leaks. Water seeps between the sink shelf and the wall onto the floor. Thus, your reputation as a "real man" is undermined. Don't waste your time. If, when the taps are closed, water enters the shelf, turn off the valve (or valves), unscrew the flywheels of the taps so that the water is glassed, wipe the shelf dry. Then seal the gap with plasticine, putty or a mixture of drying oil with chalk powder. The seal should have an attractive appearance - paint it on top with whitewash. After completing this simple operation, you will believe in yourself and proceed to the next step.
Where is it flowing from? Most often, water oozes out from under the union nut (24) of the spout (25). After repeated turns, the rubber ring (22) is erased. Unscrew the union nut, pull out the spout and replace the ring. "Great advice," some will say, "but where can I get it?" Well. Wind a thin copper wire, fishing line or linen thread around the annular groove of the spout and pull the old rubber ring over it. You can also find a rubber tube of a suitable size and cut a ring out of it, and the inner diameter is easy to "adjust" with the same coil. In extreme cases, until a suitable gland is found, you can wind it around a worn-out strand of disheveled linen twine and tighten the union nut harder. This will create inconvenience, as the spout will stop turning. Reassure the hostess with a standard reference to "temporary difficulties." Water can also seep out from under the gland bushing (17) in valves with a rotary-translational movement of the stem. Tighten the sleeve a little, but do not use pliers - you will rip off the edges. If the sleeve is wrapped to the limit, then it is necessary to fill the gland. We will cover this procedure later. Less commonly, a leak occurs between the external thread of the valve head body (14) and the thread of the mixer body (19). In this case, the seal (15) must be rewound or the plastic ring (16) must be replaced. The latter is usually destroyed by excessive effort during the tightening of the tap. If all the causes of leakage above the sink have been eliminated, and water is dripping, lie down under the sink and look for leaks in the pipes. First of all, check the area of the union nut (9). Try to trust her. To do this, however, you need a special wrench. If there is no effect, then the gasket (6) is torn or cracked. Remove the sink together with the mixer, unscrew the union nut, carefully pry off the old gasket and inspect it. If the fears are confirmed, then put the unusable gasket on a sheet of rubber 3..4,5 mm thick and, using it as a sample, cut out a new one. Worse for those who do not have a special wrench. And these are the majority. Here you have to tinker: remove the sink with the supply pipes. First, use a knife or a steel brush to clean the pipe thread (1) next to the locknut (2), then moisten the cleaned area with kerosene or lubricate with Negrol. Swing the lock nut and lower it along the thread to such a length that the sleeve (4) can fit on it. Clean the thread from the seal (3) and roll up the coupling. Do the same with the second pipe. After such work, it is foolish to tighten the union nut (9). Immediately check the condition of the gasket (6), if necessary, replace it and proceed with assembly. It is done in reverse order. Just do not forget that the flax threads are wound clockwise, that is, in the direction in which the clutch will be wound. When connecting pipes, try not to warp the structure so that excessive deformation does not lead to the destruction of the gasket. Having brought the coupling into place, screw the seal strand in the direction of rotation of the locknut, which should be located 3-4 mm from the coupling after tightening the seals. In the gap between the ends of the locknut and the coupling, the seal will fit without spreading. Now tighten the locknut, ensuring the tightness of the connection. Some, after assembling the pipes, lubricate the linen strands of the seals with oil paint or drying oil. This is useful for outdoor pipe wiring, but in an apartment where pipes are relatively often disconnected, this is not worth doing. That's all. Mentally cast a spell if you are using one, and check the quality of your work. It happens that you open a hot water tap, and cold water comes out. It may be the other way around. Most often, the gasket (9) is to blame, in which the jumper is damaged. Another reason may be a through sink in the middle common wall of a tee or faucet. If this is the case, hot and cold water will be "confused" not only with you, but also in neighboring apartments. To set the "diagnosis" shut off the hot water valve. If after a long descent the water remains warm, then the neighbors' mixer is to blame. In exactly the same way, you can determine in which apartment the defective "Yolochka" is installed. Some lucky people in their apartments have herringbone faucets without a tee. This modification has the advantage that it does not have a shaped gasket, a tee and a huge union nut. They are replaced by two tubes connected directly to the mixer body. The next advantage is that precise piping is no longer needed. And the last - the mixer is mounted on a sink already installed on the underframe or brackets. To do this, unscrew the nut and together with it remove the gasket and metal washer from the body. Pass the pipes and the mixer body through the hole in the shelf of the sink. Put a gasket, washer, nut on the bottom of the tubes. Bring them to the mixer body and fix it, only after that proceed to bending the tubes. Remember that the bending radius must not be less than 30 mm, otherwise the pipe may burst. If the tubes do not bend well, anneal them first with a gas burner or over a gas stove burner in the places of expected bends. Putting connecting parts (nipples) on the tubes, do not forget to wind linen threads onto the threads. Please note that the nipples are brass, and therefore do not use pliers and lever (gas) keys, otherwise you risk breaking the edges or leaving deep dents on the part. In conclusion, I must admit that the installation of "Yolochka" at the sink is a very complicated operation. And if it was successful, you can apply for a 3rd category. Author: V.Volkov
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