BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Oven-fireplace-stove complex. Tips for the home master Directory / Builder, home master If the layout of a rural house or cottage is such that the largest room borders on the kitchen, then instead of separate heat sources (an ordinary stove or fireplace in the “hall”, and stoves in the kitchen), it makes sense to build a stove-fireplace-stove complex. This is how it was done in our country house: all heat sources are connected into a single volume with one pipe (of course, with its alternate use), which gives a noticeable savings in space and materials. The peculiarity of the complex is that it is easy to turn a fireplace into a stove and vice versa. In addition, by manipulating the gate valve, you can heat the kitchen from a large room or, on the contrary, actively feed the room with heat from the kitchen. Quick heating of the complex is ensured by the laying of chimneys in a quarter of a brick (on the edge) and the presence in it of the so-called heater - a free cavity between the chimneys, which communicates with the "atmosphere" of the premises and significantly increases the radiating surface. The through oven is also very convenient: one door opens into the kitchen, the other into the room. In addition to its direct purpose, the oven also serves as a dispensing window when setting the table in a large room. For the manufacture of the complex, the following are required: high-quality red (for the main masonry) and refractory (for furnace cavities) brick (400 pieces in total); furnace door size 250x210 mm; four doors (130x130 mm) for upper cleaning, gate and upper oven; nine doors (130x70 mm) for blower, bottom cleaning, dampers and air vents; grate (250x180 mm); oven (520x250x250 mm); cast iron stove (410x340 mm) with one burner; four gate valves (240x130 mm); four sheets of roofing iron (630x500 mm); steel, brass or bronze sheet (530x500 mm) for the fireplace damper; sheet of "stainless steel" (630x250 mm); steel corner (50x50, L350 mm); duralumin corner (20x20, L3000 mm); duralumin strip (30x2, L12 mm); pieces of marble tiles; strips of asbestos fabric with a total area of about 000 m2; pieces of asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 2 mm; clay; sand and more. Since part of the masonry (we are talking about chimneys) is carried out on the edge, the foundation for the complex is mandatory. Waterproofing is placed on it - a layer of roofing material and sheets of roofing iron: one under the fireplace, the other under the stove. Unlike a fireplace, the laying of a slab does not begin with bricks, but with six figured columns made up of supports - 70-mm segments of an asbestos-cement pipe 120 mm in diameter, filled with cement mortar - and squares hewn from brick halves. The brick selected for laying must be of high quality: well-burnt, have even corners and smooth edges. For the same reason, careful preparation of orders, high-quality clay mortar, minimally thin seams - no more than 3 mm are necessary. The rule is known: the more bricks and less clay in the kiln, the higher the quality of the masonry. In this case, this rule comes in handy.
Further. All adjunctions of brickwork to metal parts (especially to the walls of the oven and to the furnace door) must be made with asbestos-fabric gaskets to compensate for their various linear expansions when heated. The stove-fireplace-stove complex is controlled by several rotary and sliding gates. Three of them are the main ones: common No. 1, fireplace-stove No. 2, tiled No. 3 and two manipulators: No. 4 and 5 (double). To enable the individual components of the complex in one mode or another, you must perform the following steps: a) stove: cover the fireplace insert with shutters and open gates No. 1 and 2 (chimneys at full speed); b) fireplace: open gates No. 1, 2, 4 and 5 (maximum draft). Fireplace shutters can also be open; c) furnace with heating of the kitchen "mirror": open gates No. 1, 2 and 5; d) stove with heated kitchen "mirror": open gates No. 1, 3 and 5; e) stove with heated fireplace "mirror": open gates No. 1, 3 and 4; f) stove in maximum mode with primary heating of a large room: open gates No. 1 and 3. Now a few explanations. The main gate No. 1 consists of two valves riveted with a "sandwich" for better heat retention after heating. It is accessible from the room and kitchen, as it is equipped with a rod from an 8 mm rod passed through the masonry of the 27th row (see order). Gate No. 2 is rotary, but can also be retractable, like No. 4. Modified factory-made doors (3x5 mm in size) were used as gates No. 130 and 70. The factory handles were removed from them, and the resulting holes were riveted. The pins were knocked out of the ears, and new handles from a bar with a diameter of 8 mm were welded into the drilled holes instead. The flaps in the fireplace damper are carved with the thinnest autogenous flame according to a chalk pattern and hung on hinges so that the same gaps are preserved along the entire contour. Acting as a blower in the furnace mode, these gaps do not deprive the observer of the opportunity to admire the live flame even with the doors closed. The orders show the dressing of the main masonry with fire-fighting interstitial cutting. This eliminates uneven settlement and the formation of cracks between them. One more explanation. The figures and orders show, let's say, the main option. Of course, he allows digressions if they seem more attractive to readers. For example, we somehow came across an artistic cast iron fireplace lining from an old ruined house. Thus, the fireplace part of our complex received an excellent design. The outer surfaces of the "mirror" do not need to be plastered. Masonry flaws are best treated with a rasp, and then with the coarsest sandpaper (necessarily fixed on a plank). Then wipe the "mirrors" with a liquid clay solution and sand with medium number sandpaper. Then cut (slightly deepen) the seams so that a rhythmic geometric pattern of masonry appears on the monotonous planes of the fireplace, and paint everything with iron minium diluted in water with the addition of skimmed milk (in a ratio of 1: 1) so that the color does not get dirty. Before the fireplace arch, it is necessary to put a metal sheet (copper, duralumin or "stainless steel"), since with open doors it is possible to "shoot" coals onto an unprotected floor, which is a fire hazard. The laid out complex must be dried for a week (with the doors and gates wide open), then slowly heated several times with a very small amount of firewood, and only after the masonry has dried thoroughly, begin to operate. If there are no errors, then we can expect that he will please his owner with reliable work for more than one year. Our calculations, for example, were justified. In winter, it is always warm and cozy in the house, pies are perfectly baked in the heated stove, and even barbecue is cooked in the fireplace in special cases - for this, holes for skewers are drilled in the back wall. Author: D.Kudryachkov We recommend interesting articles Section Builder, home master: ▪ Norms for the location of a residential building and outbuildings See other articles Section Builder, home master. Read and write useful comments on this article. Latest news of science and technology, new electronics: Machine for thinning flowers in gardens
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