Alteration of the washing machine under a weak pressure of water. Drawing, description

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Alteration of the washing machine under a weak pressure of water. Tips for the home master

Builder, home master

Washing machines have firmly entered our everyday life. And if in cities the connection of a modern washing machine to the water supply network will not cause problems, then in rural areas, where there is no central water supply, and water is taken from springs and wells, it is much more difficult to put it into operation. And this is caused primarily by the lack of a water supply system or insufficient pressure in it. As a rule, modern washing machines are designed to operate with an incoming water pressure of 0,5 - 10 bar, which can only be provided by a pressure pump or an autonomous water station operating on its basis (the latter can be bought now at a price of 5000 rubles).

Usually, in villages, washing machines are connected according to a well-known scheme: a barrel with a volume of 50–200 liters is installed above the washing machine, from which, using hoses, taps and adapters, water enters the machine by gravity. But this pressure is clearly not enough.

Water, bypassing the electromagnetic inlet valves (there are two of them), a filter and a nipple built into the washing machine, enters the tank so slowly (literally drop by drop) that it will take days and days to wait for the beginning and end of washing, which is essentially absurd.

In addition, the "smart" filling of washing machines "does not understand" this attitude, perceiving slow water accumulation as a complete lack of water in the house and, as a result, stops washing (this depends on the brand, model and type of washing machines).

However, craftsmen came up with a simple way out of this situation - to connect a water pump to the gap of the regular inlet hose of the washing machine. Moreover, for this purpose, almost any type of pump can be used: submersible pressure, centrifugal, vibration - depending on preferences. Prices for pumps also vary: from 1100 to 4200 rubles, but all of them will create the water pressure necessary for the washing machine in the incoming circuit. A submersible or vibrating one will have to be lowered into the water, a centrifugal sucks it in through a hose and also gives it out through a hose.

Rice. 1. Wiring diagram for finalizing the washing machine (click to enlarge)

Craftsmen turn on the pump to the 220 V network through a conventional household switch (for example, designed for lighting), assuming that when the machine "asks for water", you need to press the switch - and water at the necessary pressure sufficient for the washing machine will enter the drum and tank .

But there are two questions here. The first one is how to find out when she "asks for water", because it is impossible to turn on the pump (whether it be any super-reliable one) with the outlet closed - an inevitable breakdown will occur. Namely, the situation of a "clogged" outlet will simulate a closed inlet valve of a washing machine when it does not need water.

The second question is even more relevant: since an ordinary washing machine (in the price range up to 20 rubles) "requires" water in the washing mode several times, and then, depending on the set mode, at least twice - to rinse the laundry (at this also pouring water in parts) - won’t the hostess have to relentlessly “herd” her washing machine for hours in order to feed it with water at the right time?

Unfortunately, the answer is yes. According to the stories of the villagers, this is done by many who do not have water pumping stations on their farms (replacing the usual city water supply).

Meanwhile, there is a simple and seemingly accessible way out of the situation for any resident of a rural area or a member of a dacha gardening association, which I will be happy to share with readers.

Almost all washing machines (hereinafter referred to as SM), regardless of manufacturers and labels, have the same principle of operation: at the input there is one or more solenoid valves powered by alternating voltage of the lighting network 220 V through an electronic control and switching system.

Such professional terminology should not frighten the reader, since the completion of the washing machine in this part, as they say, is easier than steamed turnips.

To ensure the unhindered passage of water, you need to remove the rubber gasket in the alignment of the input connector of the washing machine (shown in photo 2). After that, the throughput of the valves will improve significantly.

Converting a washing machine to low water pressure
Photo 2. The inlet solenoid valve of the washing machine

Next, you need to remove the top cover of the washing machine (we are talking about machines with side loading of laundry), for this, unscrewing two or three (depending on the type of SM) self-tapping screws on the back wall near it. The top cover is removed by a translational horizontal movement "away from you" (if you look at the hatch door). Not far from the place where the inlet hose is supplied, there are two (as in the considered SM) electromagnetic valves nearby (photo 2). Wires are connected to them through the connectors. When water needs to be added to the washing machine, the inlet solenoid valves are supplied with AC voltage of 200 - 220 V. They open and allow water to pass into the tank and drum. Four wires go to the solenoid valves (two for each). By connecting the terminal block in parallel with the contacts of the valves (in photo 3) and connecting a pair of wires, they are taken out of the body of the washing machine.

Converting a washing machine to low water pressure
Photo 3. View of the connected terminal block with the cover of the washing machine removed

Now, a simple electrical circuit is connected to these wires (let's call them conditionally A and B) (Fig. 1).

In fact, the device circuit is a rectifier (DC source) with an output voltage of 12 - 15 V. Any voltage in this range is acceptable.

A low-current electromagnetic relay K1 is installed at the output of the DC source. The contacts of this relay are included in the open circuit of the pump power supply. Now, as you may have guessed, when the inlet valves of the washing machine are turned on, relay K1 and the electric motor M1 of the injection pump will turn on. When the valves in the washing machine turn off, the pump will automatically turn off. Such a bunch will work cyclically for an arbitrarily long time. And you don't have to stand next to the washing machine.

It is impossible to connect the pump directly to the contacts of the solenoid valves of the washing machine - due to the high current consumption of the pump, the SM electrician will burn out.

About details

The diagram (Fig. 1) shows a step-down transformer T1 with an output alternating voltage on the secondary winding of 8-10 V, a diode rectifier VD1 - VD4. An oxide capacitor C1 (type K50-24 or similar) is introduced into the circuit to smooth out power ripples. Relay K1 used automotive, type 3747-06, designed for a response voltage of 12 V. However, you can use something else, for example WJ118-1C, Omron G2R-112P-V, TRU-5VDC-SB-SL, TTI-TRD-9VDC-FB -CL, Relpol RM85-2011-35-1012, Pasi BV2091 SRUH-SH-112DM, FRS10С-03 or similar. It is important that the relay contacts provide safe switching of loads with a current of at least 3 A.

The diagram also shows a piezoelectric capsule with a built-in sound generator HA1, connected in parallel to a relay, and an HL1 LED connected in series with a limiting resistor R1. These elements, respectively, provide sound and light indication of the activation of the pump (and inlet valves of the washing machine). If such an indication (or part of it) seems redundant, the corresponding elements are simply removed from the circuit.

The HA1 capsule can be any 9-15V capsule, such as FMQ2715D, FXP1205 (mono tone), KPI4332-12 (intermittent sound), KPS4518 (dual tone siren) or similar.

The rectifier shown in the diagram (Fig. 1) is applicable to any - as long as it provides an output direct current of more than 70 mA at a constant output voltage of 12-15 V. It can be an industrial rectifier or power supply, for example, for a radio receiver or a burner. Cell phone adapters are useless here, as the output current will not be enough to power the relay.

In such a simple way, you can automate the work of almost any washing machine in the village and wash it like in the city. And there is no need to look for a master installer who will charge you a lot of money for work.

Apparent cons

You will need to open the top cover of the washing machine and connect in parallel with the solenoid valves by installing a terminal block. If the washing machine is under warranty, you can lose it by unauthorized opening of the cover. At this point, everyone chooses for himself: either suffer until the warranty ends, or purchase an already “used” washing machine, and then do it in accordance with the above recommendations and wash clothes comfortably.

Author: A.Kashkarov

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VioleteRom
I have an Ariston, the machine is 5 years old, in summer the pressure is very very weak, but the machine washes normally, it only draws water for a long time and instead of 30 minutes of short mode, sometimes an hour comes out.

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