Samovar on wood and electricity. Drawing, description

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Samovar on wood and electricity. Tips for the home master

Builder, home master

If there is an old samovar in the house, it is a sin not to use it at least on especially solemn occasions. You can even not bother with ignition, but limit yourself to ready-made boiling water poured inside. At first, I did just that, until the decision was ripe to equip this relic with a tubular electric heater (heater), retaining the appearance of the samovar and the basis of its unique design almost unchanged.

As a heating element, a so-called household boiler with a power of 1,2 kW is adapted. True, the plastic head with wires had to be removed. And unbend the tubular spiral a little so that the heater can freely fit between the body of the samovar and the flame tube.

More trouble brought ... pens. Located on the lid of the samovar, in addition to their main function, they had to perform one more thing - to serve as housings for electrical connectors. At the same time, without wires and with closed swivel covers, outwardly it does not differ from the prototype.

In addition, the samovar received a modern electrical connection, quite compact. She had to do the same herself, since industrial designs for non-standard equipment were not suitable. It’s good that there are few details in the samovar electrical supply.

In a word, I had to sweat. What is the result?

Firstly, the samovar has retained its "face". Secondly, it can not only be heated, as before, with firewood, but also heated from the mains.

True, such combined samovars are already being produced by the Tula plant "Stamp". But they use a heating element, which is inserted into the body of the samovar, which means that the electrical connector sticks out from the outside and is not at all a decoration of the structure. In addition, the connection of the heating element with the body must be tight, which is ensured by rubber gaskets. Rubber, on the other hand, with prolonged heating (and just over time) cracks, and the connection loses its tightness. And if there is no new gasket at hand, the samovar can no longer be used.

In the proposed design, the electrical connectors are located on the lid of the samovar, that is, above the water level, and a hermetic connection is not required. And this means that the performance of the samovar does not depend on the quality of the gaskets (they may not be at all). Moreover, no additional holes need to be made in the case. And, finally, thirdly, the heater of the proposed design can be installed in a purely electric samovar, which will increase its reliability and durability.

By the way, the patent of the Russian Federation No. 2073995 was received for the design of the samovar.

Samovar on wood and electricity
An old samovar - a new life: 1-body of a samovar; 2 - electric heater; 3 - handle-plug (2 pcs.); 4-lid; 5 - flame pipe; 6 - plug handle; 7 - clamp-splitter of wires; 8 - plug; 9 - burner; 10 - electric cord; upper (a) and lower (b) allowable levels of filling the samovar with water.

Handle-plug assembly (click to enlarge): 1 - heater body; 2 - gasket (fluoroplast or caprolon); 3 - cover of the samovar; 4 - threaded bushing; 5 - curly nut; 6 - boss; 7 - threaded sleeve; 8 - stopper; 9 - swivel cover; 10 - contact pin; axis of rotation of the cover; 12 - spring (from disposable gas lighters, shortened); 13 - washer; 14-pin; 15 - insulator (fluoroplast, caprolon or rubber).

Samovar on wood and electricity
Electrical connection: 1 - contact sleeve (bronze or brass, 2 pcs.); 2 - plug housing (2 pcs.); 3-sleeve flexible; 4 - single-core wire; 5 - cover of the clamp-splitter; 6 - curly bushing; 7 - power cord; 8 - plug; 9 - base of the clamp-splitter.

In conclusion, a few more recommendations. A household heating element with a power of 1,2 kW is best suited for samovars up to 5 liters; with a larger capacity, the heating time will be too long. It is advisable to use a heating element with a copper alloy body. It should be unbent very carefully so as not to damage the electrospiral inside.

For a copper samovar, it is better to make all metal parts from bronze. External surfaces should be polished.

I advise you to carve bosses from hardwood (oak, beech). If necessary, treat with stain and cover with furniture varnish in 2-3 layers. All other non-metallic parts can be made from PTFE or caprolon.

I recommend to put threaded bushings on the tube of the boiler with an interference fit, expand the ends of the tube, and solder the joint. This is necessary so that the bushings do not rotate when the curly nuts are tightened. Solder the contact pin to the output of the heating coil. Put the insulator on the contact pin with an interference fit so that it fits tightly into the connector housing.

The axles can be pressed into the swivel caps, and the springs can be used from disposable gas lighters, shortened to the desired size.

As for the length of the single-core wires of the power cord, it is desirable that in the working position they are not too tight.

Author: V.Golovnya

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