When did surfing originate? Detailed answer

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When did surfing originate? Detailed answer

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When did surfing originate?

Surfing is a sport where you swim on the ocean waves while standing on a long and narrow board. This sport is enjoyed along the coasts of the world. It has become very popular, but we still think of it as something new. In fact, it is a very ancient sport. It originated in the Pacific Islands hundreds of years ago.

When Captain James Cook discovered Hawaii in 1788, surfing was very popular among the Hawaiians. Hawaiians held surfing competitions, the winners received prizes and were cheered by everyone. The islanders used boards 4-5 meters long and weighing 68 kg.

In 1957 there was a big event in surfing that made it popular. We started using lighter boards. The boards, about 3 meters long and weighing about 10 kg, made surfing possible for women and children. New boards were usually made of foam, covered with fiberglass and rubber.

The board is the only equipment required for this sport. Being on the waves, the athlete stands on the board and controls it to the left and right. First, the athlete must sail away from the shore with the board - beyond the surf, beyond the line where the waves begin to break. Kneeling or lying prone on the board, he waits for the dead swell. When the wave he wants to climb begins to rise above him, he begins to row quickly towards the shore. The wave rises under him, and the board rises to its crest. Having "caught" the wave, the athlete stands up, one foot in front, and controls the board, trying to stay on the wave.

Author: Likum A.

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