Protection of iron from rust. simple recipes

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FACTORY TECHNOLOGIES AT HOME - SIMPLE RECIPES
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Protection of iron from rust. Simple recipes and tips

Factory technologies - simple recipes

Directory / Factory technology at home - simple recipes

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Protecting iron from rust Valid if the surface has been thoroughly cleaned beforehand. The following are recommended:

1) Coating with substances that absorb water and acids or bind them. So, to protect steam boilers on ships from rust, a solution of zinc oxide in sodium hydroxide or solid zinc oxide carbonate is added to the water. In addition, steam boilers are filled with milk of lime or soda solution when they stop. It is better to place potassium chloride in pieces the size of a walnut in well-dried (with the help of a firebox) boilers, while at the same time stopping the access of air. In tunnels, crushed limestone is used to protect iron from rust, or iron parts are covered with limestone milk; this achieves the binding and neutralization of a very harmful element that gives rust, namely sulfurous acid in the flue gases of steam locomotives. The nuts in the tunnels are tarred twice.

2) Metal plating is carried out after preliminary etching in acid and after quick drying in a hot state; objects are immersed in straightened metal or electroplated in a suitable metal bath.

Zinc is the best preservative (also in sea water), because in a zinc bath, an iron-zinc alloy always forms on the surface of iron. Galvanized iron is often found in the trade under the name galvanized. Better cold electrolytic galvanization. Tin protects weakly and only as long as the iron is not exposed anywhere.

Lead protects against hydrochloric and sulfuric acids: lead-coated sheets are used to cover the roofs of chemical, gas plants, etc. Copper (galvanic) and nickel are protected only with a significant layer thickness.

3) Enameling. The surface of the cast iron is etched and dried, and then covered with a powdered primer (feldspar, quartz, borax and clay), fired to swelling and then enameled (silicates with tin oxide) and heated until the enamel is completely melted.

4) Greases in solid or liquid form are very useful for coating cleanly finished surfaces of machines prior to assembly. In the open air, fats are washed away by rain or run off from the action of sunlight. Fat with an admixture of 50-100% lead white also easily burns: fatty acids formed from the breakdown of neutral fats corrode iron. A mixture of talc and graphite is recommended for lubricating wire ropes (once a month). Recently, mineral fats dissolved in turpentine or in the highly volatile products of the distillation of kerosene have often been used.

5) Portland cement not only protects against rust, but absorbs rust that has already formed on the surface of iron (Monnier structures). Cement is also an excellent medium for large castings and large iron structures. Finely sifted cement diluted in water is applied with a brush to clean metal surfaces. This coating is repeated 4 to 5 times after the last layer has hardened. For surfaces exposed to water (locks, the bottom of ships), the smallest cement is kneaded on skimmed milk.

6) Tar, asphalt and anhydrous tar serve as a good coating for cast iron pipes. Resin and pipes are preheated.

7) Coating with resin oils. Rubber oil: a solution of rubber in turpentine oil. Antioxide is a weak solution of gutta-percha in gasoline.

8) Rubber and celluloid give an excellent coating for nails, screws, buckles, rings, etc., and these parts are then not exposed to air, water, acids. This is very important for electrical insulators. Coating of ship shafts with hard rubber is recommended. Parts of machines on long-distance ships are covered with a celluloid solution.

9) Coating with oil paints is the most common. Flaxseed oil comes off easily; it is better to take liquid, quickly drying boiled linseed oil mixed with graphite, ocher, iron minium (no more than 20% clay) or, better, with red lead, for priming. Under water, only minium proved itself well. After priming, the actual painting is carried out, for which they take pure boiled linseed oil with white lead (and not zinc), graphite, zinc dust, and also with the addition of chalk. To avoid the formation of bubbles, the second layer is applied only after the final hardening of the previous layer.

Author: Korolev V.A.

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