Welded tires - bicycle. Tourist tips

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Welded tires - bicycle. Tourist tips

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From ancient times, it was believed that someone who follows the advice of an old Russian proverb: prepare a sleigh in summer and a cart in winter, "without any doubt, can be considered a good, diligent owner. Having been fond of cycling tourism for almost ten years, I have always been repairing my" iron horse "and However, in the last couple of years, it has become almost impossible to do this either in winter or in summer, since it is possible to purchase the required parts in the store only as a result of a lucky break.

The problem is especially acute for cyclists tires. The last of the tires at my disposal was worn out in several places to a fabric cord, and its further operation became very doubtful. Having realized that many motorists use welded tires, I decided to try to do such a "restoration". Looking ahead, I’ll say that the result exceeded all expectations: the restored tire, placed on the rear wheel, “skated” 1,5 thousand kilometers with minimal wear on the tread pattern, no delamination of the welded rubber layer was observed. I think that the resource of such tires is at least three seasons of active driving. I suggest that other cyclists take advantage of my experience, especially since there are no special tricks in it.

The proposed method of repairing a bicycle tire consists in restoring a worn tread not only in places of defects, but also over the entire surface in contact with the road surface. To work, you will need an electric vulcanizer (preferably with a large area of \u150b\u200bthe heating element, for example, a stationary type, having a working surface measuring XNUMXxXNUMX mm; as a way out, we can recommend an “installation” of an iron with a thermostat and clamps or locksmith vise). You will also need raw rubber and simple equipment made by yourself. The latter consists of a matrix that forms the protector and a rear copy spacer.

The matrix, as a heat-conducting part, is made of metal. It can be both steel and cast iron. But it is best to give preference to aluminum alloys, since, along with good thermal conductivity, they have an important feature - they allow an amateur who does not have machine tools at hand to use the most common metalwork tools for processing. So, in accordance with the radius of the wheel of your bicycle (for my "Sputnik" of the Kharkov Bicycle Plant it is 340 mm), the profile surface of the matrix is made. The type and shape of the "new" protector are determined by the diameter, depth and number of holes, notches and depressions on the body of the matrix.

Tire restoration (click to enlarge): 1 - heating element of the vulcanizer, 2 - matrix, 3 - raw rubber layer, 4 - welded layer, 5 - back gasket, 6 - tire area requiring repair

The rear copy pad is easy to make from a wooden block. The specific dimensions of the entire tooling depend on the dimensions of the vulcanizer and can be changed accordingly, "adjusting" to the existing model.

Preparatory operations include "guiding" roughness and obtaining a matte, "velvet" surface on the tire. For this, a file with a large notch is used (it is desirable that it has not been used before for metal work). After sanding, the surface is degreased with a rag soaked in gasoline.

Having cut off a piece of raw rubber with a thickness of 1,5 ... 3 mm, we remove the protective fabric or film stickers, moisten with gasoline and apply it to the prepared tire area. Having installed the matrix on top, and the copy pad below, we clamp the package into the vulcanizer, preheated to a temperature of 140 ... 150 ° C. In this case, it is impossible to allow the displacement of parts relative to each other. Do not forget during work and safety precautions - try to protect your hands from burns.

The duration of the vulcanization process is determined by the thickness of the rubber used: for the specified one, it lies within 15 ... 25 minutes. As a result of proper heat treatment, the welded layer should become elastic, in no case should it stretch "like chewing gum", or, conversely, be brittle and brittle. The first defect means too low curing temperature (less than 140°C). and the second excess (more than 150°C). leading to burnout.

Having moved the matrix and the gasket, we make the next bookmark, the vulcanization process is repeated, and so on until the updated tread closes.

Author: A.Gvozdev, Ivanovo

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