Soft and hand bike. Drawing, description

PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
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Soft and hand bike. Personal transport

Personal transport: land, water, air

Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air

Over the years, the human skeletal system, especially the spine, is subject to specific diseases. Overloads transferred in younger years, sports and labor injuries begin to affect. But at the same time, the habit of walking and cycling develops into a necessary need. Involuntarily, you will think about how to improve a simple road bike at minimal cost, making it more comfortable and "softer". And I seem to have successfully solved this depreciation problem.

In the proposed technical solutions, I managed to significantly "repay" the shocks on the body and hands from the bumps in the road.

First, I additionally spring loaded the saddle on my regular Perm-type road bike (Fig. 1).

Soft and hand bike
Rice. 1. Additional spring-loaded saddle: 1 - standard saddle pad; 2 - regular spring; 3 - restrictive cable; 4- seatpost (from the bike "Salute"); 5 - regular seatpost mounting bolt; 6 - seat tube of the frame; 7 - cork; 8-compression spring; 9 - support washer; 10 - supporting pin

To do this, I replaced the regular seatpost with a similar part from the Salyut bike - it is longer and a little thinner; "Salyutovskaya" rack with a loosened mounting bolt slides freely in the seat tube of the frame.

I placed a compression spring in the seat tube of the frame, resting it on a pin inserted into a hole drilled in the pipe and a washer. I placed a plug on top of the spring. Its diameter is the same as the outer diameters of the spring and seatpost, and it runs freely in the tube. The height of the cork is selected depending on the compression force of the spring and the mass of the cyclist. Finding the right spring was no easy task. In the end, I used a rigid door spring normally compressed. But for this, he stretched it beyond the "elastic limit", making it normally stretched, and chopped it off with a chisel to the desired length.

So that the saddle, spring-loaded in this way, does not jump out when pushing upwards, its course was limited by a flexible cable - a strong thin rope.

Another technical solution concerns the suspension of the steering wheel. Looking ahead, I’ll say that it prompted the idea of manufacturing an original additional manual drive, and this, in turn, gave rise to the replacement of the drive sprocket of the drive wheel with a simpler part - the drive pulley. But first things first.

Thinking about the options for depreciating the front of the bike, I found a simple solution - just sprung the steering wheel. I decided to make a steering wheel from two parallel pipes, the top of which would be spring-loaded and could move along the rack-guides in a vertical plane. This design unexpectedly "turned" into an original and simple additional manual bicycle drive. Figure 2 shows a general view of this drive.

Soft and hand bike
Rice. 2. Suspended steering wheel - additional manual drive of the bicycle (click to enlarge): 1 - support (pipe Ø 21); 2-rudder (pipe Ø 21); 3 - bushing (pipe Ø 21, 2 pcs.); 4 - guide post (pipe Ø 12, 2 pcs.); 5 - spring normally unclenched (2 pcs.); 6 - spring normally compressed; 7 - drive chain; 8 - traction (wire Ø 3); 9 - wheel hub with a drive sprocket (from the rear wheel of a road bike, modified); 10 - bracket

Instead of a steering wheel, a support is installed in the stem - a steel pipe with a diameter of 21 mm. Two holes with a diameter of 12 mm are pre-drilled in it, guide posts are inserted into them and welded to the support. Shock-absorbing compression springs and bushings with an inner diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the racks are put on the racks. The steering wheel is welded to the bushings.

The rear wheel from another bike is inserted into the front fork. Brake cones have been removed from the hub of this wheel to allow free return rotation of the drive sprocket. A segment of the drive chain 500 mm long is thrown through the sprocket. One end of it is connected with a rigid wire rod to the steering wheel, and the other - through a weak return spring with a bracket mounted on the front fork.

By pressing the pedal with his foot, the cyclist pulls the handlebars up and rotates the front wheel through the linkage and chain. When the foot reaches the lower "dead zone", he quickly returns the handlebars to its original position (down) and repeats the cycle with the other foot.

I think there is no need to explain that a spring-loaded steering wheel is useful without a manual drive.

Soft and hand bike
Rice. 3. Drive pulley: 1 - rear wheel hub (modified); 2 - pulley (steel); 3 - flexible steel cable (Ø 2,5); 4 - return normally compressed spring

Here, during the manufacture of the manual drive, the idea came up to replace the drive sprocket with a pulley, and instead of traction and chain, use a flexible steel cable, throwing one or two turns over the pulley, which was done (Fig. 3). The result is positive, the drive works. It should be noted: the roughness of the working surface of the pulley is only beneficial. And further. A pulley diameter of 71 mm corresponds to a sprocket with 19 teeth, and with D = 88 mm - with 24 teeth.

Author: V.Gavrilov

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