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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Auto scooter. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air A motorcycle and a car are different cars. First of all, in terms of comfort. Is it possible to combine the advantages of two-wheeled transport with the convenience of a passenger car? It turns out you can. And such two-wheeled vehicles - scooters or motor vehicles - are sometimes found on the streets. We suggest you make one of the designs yourself.
This vehicle is a scooter with an engine displacement of about 50 cm3, which, unlike traditional two-wheeled vehicles, has a lightweight plastic body with a top that leans back, a seat almost like a car, and two additional wheels that can be raised and lowered like a chassis on airplane. Let's get to work. Let's start with the frame. It is clear that it cannot be done without a welding machine. You will need steel pipes with an outer diameter of 34 mm and a wall thickness of 2,5 mm, pipes with a diameter of 22 mm (with the same wall), as well as a front telescopic fork from a moped of any brand or scooter. The frame is designed for wheels from a mini-mokik made in Riga, but they will also fit from the same scooter. It is also necessary to have on hand sheet steel with a thickness of about 2,5 mm. First of all, draw a frame in full size. This will allow, guided by the drawing, to correctly and accurately cut the blanks, and finally determine the main dimensions of the elements. As can be seen from the figures, the frame of the scooter is spinal and consists of a welded two-pipe L-shaped spar, which simultaneously acts as a rear wheel fork. Steel plates 4 mm thick with longitudinal grooves for the axis are welded to each of the pipes. We recommend making grooves after installing the plates - this will help to do the job more accurately. Now fit the rear wheel to the frame tubes, tighten the axle nuts tight and figure out where the folds will be. When bending the pipe at a small angle, it is not worth filling it with sand - just take a pipe bender. After mutual adjustment, the pipes are joined by welding at two or three points. Next, install the wheel in the front fork and fix it to the floor with wooden slats in the position shown in the figure. In the same way, install the frame side member with the rear wheel. At the same time, temporarily fasten the side member to the steering column with soft copper wire. Carefully check the installation of the wheels - they must be strictly in the same plane. If everything is correct, grab the side member to the steering column by welding at two or three points. After the final adjustment, all welding joints are carefully welded. In the front part, the connection of the spar with the column is reinforced with scarves cut from a steel sheet. The rear engine mount bracket is cut and bent from 3 mm thick sheet steel. This is done locally: first, a template is cut out of cardboard, and only after it is tried on is a metal blank made. Also adjust the front bracket. After processing, the bracket is attached to the engine and mounted with a wire on the frame. It will also require a thorough check of the correct installation - the axis of the engine cylinder must be located strictly in the plane of symmetry of the frame, and the platform under the carburetor must be strictly horizontal. After tacking the brackets - the last check and final welding, which is carried out with the engine removed. The base of the frame is ready. It remains to attach the cross member - a pipe, which is a hinged support for additional wheels, as well as small support platforms for attaching the driver's seat. All. The frame can be considered finally assembled! For the axis of additional wheels, it is necessary to select a pipe of such an external diameter that would allow it to easily rotate in a hinged support. If you can't find it, a smaller diameter pipe or rod will do, and use rings cut from a plastic hose to compensate for the gap. They will be good plain bearings. The landing gear is made of steel pipe with an outer diameter of 22 mm. A bushing is welded to one of its ends, and a steel axle machined from a bar is welded to the other. A piece of steel bar with a diameter of about 10 mm with a thread for a plastic handle is fixed on the left stand by welding. This is the chassis control lever. Additional wheels must be securely fixed in the extended and retracted position. The mechanism here is not too complicated, and we recommend that you think about its device yourself.
Chassis wheels - from a children's bike. It is desirable that these be rubberized "dutiks" or wheels with solid rubber (but not plastic) tires with a diameter of up to 200 mm. The fuel tank of the scooter is a plastic or aluminum canister with a capacity of 5 liters. It is equipped with a standard motorcycle fuel valve with a sump and is installed in the rear of the body. A drain hole must be drilled in the cork of the canister. Body - plastic. True, the frame must be assembled from wooden slats with a section of 20x20 mm. The lower part of the body is similar to the hull of small boats. First, the elements of the transverse set are assembled from the rails, and after installing them in accordance with the drawing, the longitudinal rails are docked. Then the frame is sheathed. We advise you to use plastic for facing kitchen furniture (found in hardware stores). The gluing of the frame and its sheathing are made on epoxy glue. If you do not find plastic, do not worry. Sheathing made of thin (no more than 3 mm) plywood or even hardboard of the same thickness is acceptable. Other options are also possible. The upper part of the body is similar. And make the glazing from a transparent film, which modellers use for wrapping aircraft models. In accordance with the dimensions of the window openings, prepare frames from wooden slats with a section of 10x20 mm. With spacers. Next, the frame is applied to the film, cut along the contour with an allowance of 20 mm. After that, the film is tucked up and glued to the frame with BF-2 glue. The joint is ironed with an electric iron, the regulator of which is in the "silk" position. Now the frame can be installed in the window opening by screwing it with screws. Your window, of course, will not be very beautiful at first - it is difficult to pull a hard lavsan film tightly. Use an iron - set the regulator to the "cotton" or "linen" position and iron the lavsan. He stretches and stretches. Finishing the bodywork is easy. If the cladding is plastic, it is enough to putty the joints with epoxy putty (it can be prepared from epoxy glue and talc) and paint - first with nitro primer, and then with nitro enamel. If the body is sheathed with plywood or hardboard, it is best, after leveling the surface with putty, to paste over it with a layer of fiberglass over epoxy resin and paint it. Particular attention is paid to the control system. It is not much different from the moped. Borrowed from a Riga-made mini mokick, the steering wheel has a throttle grip, a front brake lever (on the right side), and a clutch release lever (on the left). If the engine is designed for a manual gear shift, it is installed on the steering wheel on the left. The engine starter needs to be improved. In the simplest case, the kick starter lever is rearranged on the splined shaft so that it is convenient to press it with your foot while sitting in the driver's seat. A rope starter would be more convenient. To do this, a pulley with a nylon cord wound on two or three turns is installed on the splined shaft. The free end of the cord is brought out to a convenient place for launching with the left hand and is provided with a handle in the form of an inverted letter T. And the last control is the retract and landing gear lever. It is most convenient to place it under the left hand of the driver. And the brake pedal, which drives the rear wheel pads, is under the right foot. We advise you to carry out the first trips without installing the upper part of the cabin - the "lantern". Sit comfortably in the driver's seat (of course, the chassis must be lowered), set the gear selector to neutral position and start the engine with the starting device. Warm up, start moving - first in first gear, then in second. Remove the landing gear only when you feel that the scooter is stable. Of course, at first it will be unusual to manage additional wheels, but this skill is easily developed. When operating a scooter, remember that its engine cools worse than on mopeds. Therefore, make sure that the hole in the housing for cooling the cylinder is located in the front wheel niche directly opposite the cylinder, and its dimensions are larger than the cylinder. If the cooling is ineffective and the engine starts to overheat, you will have to rack your brains over forced cooling. It's not that hard to make it. It is necessary to remove the right crankcase cover from the engine and fix the aluminum blades of the centrifugal fan on the flywheel - the generator rotor. The duct casing can be bent out of aluminum sheet or glued out of fabric and epoxy resin on a foam blank filled with plasticine or non-hardening window putty. Author: I. Evstratov
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