Cars class EL-2. Drawing, description

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Cars class EL-2. Tips for a modeller

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The EL-2 class includes the simplest cord models of cars with an electric motor powered by an external current source. The new class immediately attracted the attention of young athletes. The simplicity of design, the availability of materials and engines, the possibility of holding competitions in every sports hall, even a school one, equal conditions for all are invaluable advantages, especially from the standpoint of the development of mass car modeling. After all, cars of this class do not care what the weather is outside, in the village or in the city there is a car modeling circle.

What are the basic requirements for EL-2 models? They are easy. Firstly, and, probably, this is the main thing, only standard microelectric motors manufactured by the Moscow children's toy factory or Estonian factories are allowed to be used! The "norm" for a voltage of 3,5 V. Secondly, the model should look like a real car (sports, serial) and carefully finished. A sloppy appearance may lead to the fact that the panel of judges will not allow her to compete. There are no more restrictions related directly to the micromachine! But there are opportunities to search for the optimal design and the best running scheme.

The only other things that are mentioned in the rules regarding the model are the mandatory presence of a stopping device and the requirement for a cord bar. The distance from the axis of symmetry of the machine to the hole in the bar is within 130-140 mm, the minimum hole diameter is 3 mm. The bar should carry two contacts o 2 mm, similar to the end of the glow plug core. With their help, the electric motor is connected to current-carrying cords. The speed measurement is carried out from the stroke on the base in 4 circles with a "track" radius of 3,5 m. External power supply, it should be possible to regulate the voltage on the cords within 0-6 V and change the polarity. The current source is a rectifier with an output of up to 12 V DC.

So, we got acquainted with all the requirements of the rules for the new class. Let's now see what the EL-2 model should become. And first of all, we will choose the best dimensions and masses. The smaller the model, the better - as long as the engine is freely placed. But whether it should be light or heavy... At first glance, the EL-2 microcars are similar to the track, but the conditions for their movement are completely different. There are no requirements for the dynamics of acceleration and deceleration, and there are no requirements for stability in turns - the cord threads firmly hold the model during the race in one position. So what, design it as heavy as possible, like all cords? This is irrational: the ratio of mass to power is very high, and the benefits obtained from the excellent adhesion of the drive wheels to the "track" can be much less than the losses due to the increased resistance to rotation of the wheels and axles in the bearings.

Cars class EL-2
Car model class EL-2 with micromotor MED-80 and friction transmission to the drive axle. Replica of a vintage racing car

Cars class EL-2
EL-2 class car model with MPD micromotor and belt drive to the drive axle. The drive axle bearings are copper tubes sealed in wooden brackets, the front axle is sprung. Replica sports car

Cars class EL-2
EL-2 class car model with a CDP micromotor with direct transmission. A copy of a racing car.

Therefore, we can recommend such a design path: creating the lightest possible machine with the possibility of loading it with ballast. So it will be possible to link the quality and diameter of the "tires" with the engine power and the condition of the floor of the gym.

Now about the specific elements of the design. The chassis is better of the same type for all options. It is permissible, of course, to use load-bearing bodies and rod frames, but they are much more complicated. A plywood plate with a thickness of 1,5-2 mm will allow you to complete the chassis in a matter of hours.

The body can be made from a wide variety of materials. Cardboard and whatman paper, tin and sheet celluloid or plexiglass, papier-mâché and thin plywood or dugout from linden - the choice depends on your taste, capabilities and shape of the "prototype". However, if you have not settled on any of the options yet, we advise you to try the foam one. This material is easiest to give the desired shape with a knife and sandpaper, gouging recesses in it is incomparably easier than in wood. And surface finishing superimposed with thin, pre-cut paper and aluminum foil will quickly give the desired effect. It remains to putty some places a little and paint the finished body.

If you used polystyrene of the PS brand (it is called white by modellers), do not use nitro putties, nitro varnishes and enamels. They do not affect only PVC foams (yellow). Small elements - headlights, handles, moldings, overhead imitators of hatches and bumpers and others will give a completely finished look to the body.

Now about the most important thing - about the chassis. Let's start with the wheels. Of course, it is not difficult to find ready-made, from broken toys. Some look very "like the real thing", have rubber grooved tires, securely grip the floor. But it is possible that these parts will have to be made by ourselves, especially if a historical car or a modern record-breaking one with knife-like wheels is chosen as a prototype. Here they can help ... Soothers, the most ordinary pacifiers! Their plastic round washers are easy to turn into any wheels. The work is easy. It is necessary to cut out with the help of a piece of a razor blade clamped in a compass drawer, "tires" from sheet dense or microporous rubber and clamp them between pairs of washers. During assembly, all joints are smeared with BF-2 or Unicum glue. After the rubber is compressed, the central copper tube is punched on both sides, securely holding the entire set through the gaskets.

Cars class EL-2
Scheme of fractional transmission from the engine to the drive axle: 1 - chassis plate, 2 - engine, 3 - friction roller, 4 - "tire", 5 - drive axle, 6 - bracket

The roller is pressed against the "tire" due to the weight of the model, it is possible to change the gear ratio by selecting the diameter of the friction roller.

Cars class EL-2
Homemade stopping device: 1 - mustache, 2 - knife switch (brass). 3 - clamp (bronze), 4, 6 - screws No. 2,5. 5 - body assembly (wood or plastic)

Cars class EL-2
Central rack (mounted on a massive base): 1 - wires to the rectifier. 2 - housing (textolite), 8 - current collector ring (copper), A - current collector brush (brass wire, soldered in a clamp). 5 - clamp (brass). 6 - swivel bar (textolite), 7 - ball bearing 10U22. Cord - PEL wire Ø 0,5 mm.

The design of a homemade wheel (click to enlarge): 1 - gasket. 2 - disk (plastic washer from a pacifier), 3 - rubber "tire", 4 - hub, 5 - piston bearing. A - knife-shaped wheel, B - dutik wheel with increased grip with the track

The illustrations show various mounting options for wheels and axles in chassis bearings. Use the one that seems best to you. The main task is to provide the easiest rotation of the elements. On the assembled model, it is necessary to check whether the rotating parts are not wedged when they are shifted to the side, which is possible during the race. The transmission from the engine to the drive axle, unless, of course, the wheels are planted directly on the motor shaft, should also have minimal losses. In most cases, it is better to leave a little slip in the gear than to brake the axles with a large side load from belt tension or friction roller pressure.

To reduce the impact of uneven flooring, it makes sense to work on a soft suspension. One of the solutions is a figured bracket of the front axle with lamellar mustache-springs. The stopping device is mounted in the body, the mustache of the machine goes up (sideways is prohibited by the rules). As a machine, a toggle switch with a weakened spring is used, which breaks the engine power supply circuit, or a home-made micro-switch.

Author: D.Shepilov

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