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MODELING
The simulator is a glider flight simulator. Tips for a modeler
Directory / Radio control equipment ... The control stick is gently pulled back, the glider easily lifts its nose, leaves the ground and soars up. There, at a five-meter height, where a fresh wind snorts on the planes, now we have to demonstrate what we have learned - to fend off the roll of the glider, its deviation from the course, to correctly "press" the device to the ground, to find the optimal pitching angle that is necessary for a competent takeoff .. In a word, everything is like in a real free flight! Meanwhile, our glider... can't fly. It is installed on a structure resembling a well crane. And it is, in fact, a layout. It is not so difficult to make such a simulator in a club or at a station for young technicians. It will allow children who dream of the sky to work out a lot of exercises necessary for mastering flying skills. If you're on fire, let's get to work. Let's start with the "crane". For the central rack, look for a wooden or concrete pole about 4-5 m long. Please note that the rack should go into the ground to a depth of about 1,5 - 2 m. It must be installed as rigidly as possible, fixed in a pit with coarse gravel mixed with cement mortar . If the post is wooden, do not forget to smear the base with hot bitumen - this will protect it from rotting. A swivel assembly is mounted in the upper part of the rack, having two degrees of freedom - it will provide rotation around the vertical axis and rocking of the rocker around the horizontal one. It is desirable to make the hinges on ball bearings - as shown in the figures. But you can do without them, plastic or brass tube bushings will completely replace them. A yoke about 10 m long is assembled from several steel pipes. The central section is a pipe with an outer diameter of about 100 mm, a wall thickness of 3 - 4 mm and a length of 3,5 m. You will also need pipes 2,5 m long and with such an outer diameter that they are inserted into the first pipe to a depth of at least 300 mm . Fix the pipes with electric welding. Another pipe is needed for the long end of the rocker arm. Its length is about 2 m, and it is fixed in the same way as the previous knee. There is another hinge assembly in the simulator, with the help of which the rocker arm and the airframe are connected - its design is quite simple, but a lathe and a welding machine are required. And now let's get down to the most interesting part of the work - the manufacture of a glider layout. Prepare pine blocks with a section of 25x25 mm - they are used to assemble the fuselage truss, some parts of the tail unit, as well as the leading edges of the wings and ailerons. You will also need rails with a section of 10x25 mm - for the trailing edges of the ailerons and the tail frame. All dimensions of sections and lengths of blanks are indicated in the figures.
Wing. Its basis is a two-shelf spar, consisting of two five-meter rails with a section of 25x50 mm. If you cannot find such long slats, splice them from two shorter ones, joining them "on the mustache" with epoxy glue (the length of the joint must be at least 150 mm). For the trailing edge, you will need a five-meter rail with a section of 20x70 mm. Please note that all slats must be straight-layered, without knots and slant. Ribs. They need twelve for the wing - six for each half-wing. The best material for ribs is planks about 10 mm thick and 120 mm wide. A XNUMX-XNUMX mm plywood will also work. In accordance with our drawing, mark one of the blanks and carefully process its contour. Then, using it as a template, draw the eleven others. After sawing the blanks, pull them with threaded pins into a bag and process them together with a planer, rasp and sandpaper. Then cut the grooves for the spars and the leading edge of the wing. It is better to collect the wing on a flat area of the field. Spread a sheet of paper and, in accordance with the figure, draw a plan projection of the wing with the exact location of the ribs, spar, tip and leading edge. After that, with two or three small nails, fix the lower shelf of the spar on the drawing, on it - all twelve ribs. To fix them on the spar, you will need epoxy putty from sawdust mixed with epoxy glue. In the same way - with the help of epoxy ligaments - the ribs are joined to the upper shelf of the spar. To secure the trailing and leading edges, cut twelve grooves in them for the tail and toe of the ribs and, having smeared the joints with epoxy glue, set them in place, temporarily attaching the edges to the spar with twine. After polymerization of the glue, clean the frame so that there are no bumps and protrusions on it. The wing is ready. Ailerons. First you need to draw a blueprint on a piece of paper, as you already did when assembling the wing. In the same way, temporarily fix the front and rear edges on the plaza, and then adjust the diagonal and transverse slats of the frame. The easiest way to join frame elements is with epoxy ties and small nails. The docking of the wing and ailerons is best postponed to the final stage of assembly, but for now it is necessary to assemble the base of the cockpit. This will require slats with a section of 25x60 mm, as well as a sheet of four-millimeter plywood with dimensions of 400x850 mm. First of all, dock the slats with the wing, insert them between the spar flanges and fix them to the trailing edge with epoxy glue, ties and nails. Next, cut out the crossbars, secure them and at the same time install the floor from a sheet of plywood. The assembly of the fuselage beam begins with a careful marking of each of the blanks. We advise you to make a kind of slipway. Using wooden blocks, fix all three fuselage spars to the floor so that their relative position corresponds to the drawing. Then mark on the side members the places of their joining with the braces, then cut out the braces in place and fix them with epoxy ties. The rudder and elevators are assembled in exactly the same way as the ailerons. The assembly of the apparatus begins with the docking of the cockpit and wing block with the fuselage beam. Please note that all connections must be strong and reliable. Therefore, it is necessary to join the elements on epoxy glue, reinforcing the nodes with duralumin overlays. They are made from a sheet 1,5-2 mm thick. To do this, a template is first cut out of thick paper or thin cardboard, adjusted with scissors to the junction, and then along it - the curly metal plate itself. Fastening of linings - steel bolts with M5 thread and nuts. In the design of our airframe, one can count a considerable number of metal nodes - these are elements of the control system, and hinges for mounting rudders and ailerons, and docking nodes. Almost all of them can be made from sheet duralumin with a thickness of two to four millimeters. Control system. Its main organs are pedals and handles. The easiest way is foot control - the pedals, which are a two-arm lever, are connected by cables to the rudder horns. Manual control looks a bit more complicated. The glider handle has two degrees of freedom - it can deviate both "to the right - to the left", and "from itself - towards itself". Look closely at the drawing. It is worth rejecting the handle "toward yourself" - the rod connected to it will turn the two-arm lever in the tail section, and it will deflect the elevator upwards - the car will take off. Accordingly, by giving the stick "away from you", you will transfer the glider into a dive - the glider will lower its nose and begin to descend. By deflecting the stick "to the right - to the left", you thereby activate the system of levers and rods, with the help of which the ailerons change their position relative to the wing. When the aileron of the left wing deviates up, the aileron of the right goes down - and the glider is introduced into the left bank. Moving the stick in the opposite direction will cause a right roll. We advise you to carefully study the drawings of the hinges of the control system elements. Most rods perform complex spatial motion, so each of the hinges must provide at least several degrees of freedom. The simplest design is using pieces of a rubber tube from spacer metal bushings. The rods themselves, connecting the lever mounted on the central tube of the control stick, with the aileron horns, are bent from steel rods with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Threads are cut on the bent ends of the rods. The lever is fixed in the hinge with two nuts, two washers and a lock nut. Now let's focus on the rods that connect the control stick to the elevator. They are made from duralumin tubes from ski poles. They are long enough, strong and, importantly, light. As can be seen from the figure, one of the rods is not connected directly to the horns on the elevator, but goes to the distribution unit mounted on the tail of the airframe, and from it it is connected to the right and left elevators by two smaller rods.
Airframe layout design: 1 - cockpit spars; 2 - control knob for roll and pitch; 3 - control pedals on the course; 4 - L-shaped rocker of the aileron drive; 5 - aileron drive rod; 6 - shaft of the control handle; 7 - pilot's seat; 8 - plywood sheathing of the cabin; 9 - wing; 10 - wing aileron; 11, 12 - elevator drive rods; 13 - roller for the rudder control cable; 14 - rocker of the elevator drive; 15-diagonal ribs; 16-power brace; 17-rear edge of the aileron; 18-rib of the aileron; 19 - the leading edge of the aileron; 20 - aileron drive horn; 21 - trailing edge of the wing; 22 - spar; 23 - leading edge of the wing; 24 - wing rib; 25 - aileron drive rod; 26 - diagonal rib; 27 - stabilizer; 28 - elevator; 29 - aileron drive lever; 30 - aileron hinge; 31 - corner; 32 - corner When you have finished installing the control system, install a light plywood seat or a plastic chair from a kart in the cab. Sit in it, put your feet on the pedals and figure out if it is comfortable to control the glider. If your knees stick out too high and the handlebar is too close or too far from the seat, then the pedals will need to be moved to match your height. Glider cover. For it, you will need a fabric such as percale, cushion teak or lavsan film. The former are glued to the frame with enamel or nitro-glue, followed by impregnation with nitro-lacquer and painting with nitro-paints. Lavsan film is glued with glue such as BF-2 or "Moment", after which it is stretched in a hot way - it is necessary to iron the sheathing with a heated iron. Lavsan film should not be painted. The airframe is mounted on the "crane" rocker using a ball joint, which provides the device with the ability to rotate around a vertical axis, as well as move in roll and pitch. At the opposite end of the rocker, a 200-liter counterweight barrel filled with gravel is fixed. It is advisable to mount the barrel so that you can move it along the pipe. This will make it possible to balance the simulator for any weight of the pilot. "Flights" are made only with insurance - for this, strong nylon ropes are tied to both ends of the rocker, which are held in the hands of two insurers. "Flying" is best done with a smooth, steady wind - its speed should be about 10 m / s. The first stage of training is the usual "balancing" on the ground - you must learn how to easily parry any roll, and only after mastering this skill should you move on to "takeoffs" and "landings". When taking off, try not to lift up the nose of the glider too much - otherwise you can break into a kind of corkscrew. Also, don't try to take the glider into a dive too abruptly - in this case, you may not have time to level the glider to the ground. In any case, during sudden evolutions of the glider, which are fraught with trouble for the pilot, belayers with the help of ropes should hold the rocker. After landing, the pilot remains in the glider until the spotters secure the glider to the ground. At the end of the "flights" the yoke must be moored with nylon ends in a horizontal position. Otherwise, with a strong gusty wind, the simulator may simply collapse. Author: I. Evstratov
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