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Railroad tracks for the model. Tips for a modeler

Modeling

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Most modellers who are keen on copying railway equipment have to deal with sets manufactured by Pico (GDR). They are good for everyone, but the total length of the paths that can be assembled from one set can satisfy only at the very beginning. But what if you got a taste and decided to take up railway modeling seriously? To acquire new and new sets in order to take only pieces of canvas from them? Far from the most rational way.

It will be much better if you approach the problem like a true modeler and take on the job yourself.

For the manufacture of rails, a finished copper bus with a cross section of 2x3 mm is best suited. Such a "wire" is widely used for stator windings of electric motors and for power transformers. Having cut off the tire of the required length, remove the insulation from it. To do this, the conductor is placed on the anvil and gently, with gentle blows of a light hammer, is tapped from all sides. Now it is enough to scrape the corners with a sharp knife so that the workpiece is cleaned.

The next step, leveling, is done with a heavier hammer on the same anvil. The main thing here is not to flatten the wire. The final alignment is done manually.

Sleepers - strips 4x30 mm of foil fiberglass. It is enough just to remove the burrs from the workpieces and clean the edges.

Railroad tracks for the model
Rice. 1. Calibration bar to ensure the exact distance between the rails

Railroad tracks for the model
Rice. 2. Assembling the web using a sizing bar

Railroad tracks for the model
Rice. 3. Finished canvas with detachable contact connections

Railroad tracks for the model
Rice. 4. Processing of the rail for the female part of the contact connection

Railroad tracks for the model
Rice. 5. Tin groove

Railroad tracks for the model
Rice. 6. Finished section of the canvas

Now it's the turn of the canvas assembly. If the railway is intended to be non-stationary, then it is better to use sections 500 or 1000 mm long. For a half-meter path, 60 fiberglass strips will be needed (the installation step of the sleepers is 8,0 mm). To accurately reproduce the dimensions of the track, you will have to saw out an auxiliary calibration block from hardwood or metal. After winding the rail blanks to the bar (the distance between the individual windings is equal to the step between the rails), successively press the sleeper blanks with the foil up, wet the seams with flux and solder them. It is best to use a 65 W soldering iron, radio solder and a flux made up of 1 part rosin and 3 parts industrial alcohol. Soldering must be carried out quickly so that the thin foil does not exfoliate from the textolite base. It remains to wash off the remnants of the flux - the section of the path will be ready. Recheck the straightness of the rails. It is completely pointless to edit them as an assembly, and in case of failure, it is easier to reassemble them. To isolate the current-carrying wire-tires, the foil on the sleepers is cut in the middle along the web.

Contact connections of joints. The spike part is formed by filing the rails, and before making the contact socket, you will first have to unsolder the two extreme sleepers. Having measured 8 mm from the nearest of the remaining sleepers, the rail is cut off, the remaining section is sawn off to a section of 1,0x2,5 mm. We bend a groove from tinned tin from cans (on a mandrel of two compressed hacksaw blades). The outer dimensions of the groove, bent from a blank of 8x18 mm, must exactly repeat the cross section of the main rail. Then we mount it on a shortened conductor and solder it together with one removed sleeper. The second one can be soldered only after the free section of the groove is pressed from below in accordance with the mating spiked part of the contact connection.

Rounded sections of the path are performed similarly to straight ones. Finished products are neatly painted with oil or nitro compounds.

Author: A.Kerget

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