|
Arabic
Bengali
Chinese
English
French
German
Hebrew
Hindi
Italian
Japanese
Korean
Malay
Polish
Portuguese
Spanish
Turkish
Ukrainian
Vietnamese|
BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Panel shower. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master We live in the south of Ukraine, where such building material as wood is in short supply. Many of my horticulturist neighbors have started putting up outbuildings out of their own cement panels. Some buildings have a wall thickness of only 1,5-2 cm and are not inferior in strength to structures made of other materials. On my garden plot, I built a shower cabin using this technology, as well as a basement - it turned out well. What I want to share with readers. I think it will be useful to many. Who does not dream of having a shower in their suburban area? It's nice to freshen up in hot weather after gardening chores. It is even more pleasant if the shower room is not made of slabs and old rusty iron, but neat and comfortable. Here is an example of such a solution - a shower cabin made of small self-made reinforced concrete panels. The source material was chosen as the most accessible, relatively cheap and durable. For the manufacture of a shower cabin, 0,2 m3 of concrete is required, reinforcing bars (steel mesh) and a wire with a diameter of 1 mm - for a bundle. They begin work by preparing a table on which the walls and ceiling panel are cast. Its surface must be even, so a metal sheet or particle board is laid on top. When installing the table, use the level. Boxes of wall and ceiling formwork are sequentially laid on the table. Relevant embedded elements are pre-prepared - everything that will be included in the panels: window and door frames, ventilation window frames, furnace doors, fittings, wooden plug inserts for fixing internal equipment and metal pins for subsequent assembly of the structure. The formwork is made based on the wall thickness of 40 mm, but it can be thinner; 25 mm is sufficient for the ceiling, if barrels and the like are not supposed to be installed on it.
The above diagrams show the main points of the preparatory work and the main components of the structure. To obtain a beautiful outer surface of the panels, a plastic film is preliminarily laid on the table. To give a decorative relief in some places, a layer of sand is poured under the film, in which patterns are imprinted with hands or special devices, or stone panels are laid out along the bottom of the walls. Before filling the formwork with mortar, the reinforcement is distributed so that at the time of concreting it is in the middle of the panel thickness. Nails are driven into the wooden boxes of windows and doors on the sides - for better fixing in concrete. In places where the subsequent installation of internal equipment (pipelines, mixers, hangers, etc.) is expected, wooden conical plugs are installed. After assembly, they are knocked out, and appropriate fasteners are put in their place and sealed with mortar. The floor panel is laid directly on the ground, for which the allotted area is preliminarily leveled and carefully tamped (it is possible using a sand cushion). Formwork made of wooden bars is set based on a floor thickness of 40-50 mm. A film is laid inside, reinforcement is placed, a mortgage bar under the drain channel and filled with concrete. A few tips for preparing concrete. Two buckets of coarse sand are poured into a spacious box with a smooth bottom or simply onto a metal sheet, into which, while constantly stirring, a bucket of cement is added. The mixture is thoroughly mixed so that it becomes homogeneous. Then, continuing to stir, pour four buckets of gravel or small gravel. At the top, make a recess and pour water in small portions. The quality of the resulting mixture is checked with a sample "on a shovel", hitting it several times with the flat part of the bayonet: if voids are visible between the particles of gravel, the concrete is too thick; a slight immersion of a shovel into the mixture indicates that the concrete is liquid. The mixture is used fresh, immediately filling the formwork. So that the solution in the formwork does not crack when it dries, the process is "restrained" by covering the panel with burlap or straw and pouring water from time to time. After ten days, the panel is placed on edge to dry. When laying the formwork of the ceiling, it is possible to provide holes in advance for its subsequent fastening to the pins of the walls, as well as under the fu-bu of the boiler. With this in mind, it is enough to lay the appropriate wooden plugs, having previously calculated their location (the figures show approximate dimensions). A group of six people copes with the final assembly of the prepared cabin elements in half an hour. The walls are placed on the floor on the mortar, fastening the embedded pins with wire. Then the ceiling is also placed on the solution. If the quality of the concrete is unimportant, the ceiling may get wet, so it is advisable to cover the roof with roofing felt and tar it from above. All cracks are sealed with mortar, and the irregularities of the walls are rubbed with wooden plaster floats. After that, the floor is covered with metlakh tiles, a metal grate is installed over the drain channel. Outside, the corners of the cabin are decorated with granite pebbles or pebbles.
If a water tank is mounted on the cabin - a barrel of 150-200 liters, then its frame should rest on the junction of the ceiling with the walls. The barrel is painted black for better self-heating, and a frame with glazing or polyethylene coating is placed around it - for the greenhouse effect. For a cool period, it is desirable to have a hot water boiler - purchased or homemade. You can also place it outside the shower room, but it is better - inside, since the room itself will also be heated. And it is more convenient to bring the furnace door outside the side panel. Some people prefer an open top boiler (like a samovar) made of thin-walled (2 mm) rough with a diameter of 200 mm. It takes up little space, is safe to operate, and is convenient for disassembly and cleaning. It is installed on the furnace using a large flange, to which a chimney with a diameter of 100 mm is also attached to the flange. The cold water supply pipe is placed at the bottom of the boiler, and the hot water outlet is at the top. The piping connection is shown in the diagram. With light steam, gardeners! Author: I.Danilov
▪ Grab for picking fruit from the ground
Machine for thinning flowers in gardens
02.05.2024 Advanced Infrared Microscope
02.05.2024 Air trap for insects
01.05.2024
▪ Found the oldest artificial cosmetics ▪ Technology for remanufacturing old engines ▪ The body amplifies the sound
▪ section of the site Civil radio communications. Article selection ▪ article Let's live together! Popular expression ▪ article Why are vitamins called vitamins? Detailed answer ▪ Lobia's article. Legends, cultivation, methods of application ▪ article Relay control at low voltage. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering ▪ article Magic x-ray machine. Focus secret
Home page | Library | Articles | Website map | Site Reviews
www.diagram.com.ua |
We recommend interesting articles Section 
See other articles Section 
Latest news of science and technology, new electronics:
All languages of this page