BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Arbor from a croaker. Tips for the home master Directory / Builder, home master In a quiet corner of the garden of his manor house, he planted a fir tree. Three years have passed. The tree grew stronger and stronger. And then the idea arose to build a small gazebo nearby, which, over time, the fir on a hot summer day will cover with the shadow of its branches. At leisure, I even sketched a sketch of the structure. But, as often happens, the implementation of the idea was hampered by the lack of materials, or rather, the allocation of funds from the family budget for their purchase, since this matter was not so urgent. But I didn't want to give up the idea either. I began to think about how to carry out construction so that it would not be expensive, but at the same time beautiful: after all, a gazebo is a building rather for the soul, and being in it should be a pleasure. I collected all the suitable material that was available: several pine logs, timber, boards, slate. First, from the four thickest logs (their diameter is about 300 mm), I cut down the strapping, but have not yet begun to fasten its parts. Near the fir, in the place intended for the construction of the gazebo, at the corners of the harness, I marked out and dug holes with dimensions of 300x300 mm and a depth of up to dense clay (about 600 mm). The pits were covered with sand to the surface of the earth with layer-by-layer compaction with watering with a manual rammer. He laid four brick columns (two rows high) on sandy pillows, leveled their tops with mortar to the same level, covered them with roofing material and lining boards soaked in an antiseptic solution. After that, I assembled the harness on the posts, fastening its logs with staples made of steel reinforcing bar 10 mm thick. The logs were also treated with an antiseptic. Further, at the corners of the strapping, he set up four corner log posts vertically along the plumb line, temporarily securing them with struts, and then connected their upper ends with ceiling beams arranged in an X-shape (diagonally). From thinner logs I built rafters in the form of a pyramid for a hipped roof, propping them up with a short central post, in turn, resting it on the crosshairs of the ceiling beams.
For a tighter and more reliable connection of the log elements, various small cuttings were made at their joints. He laid a sparse crate of unedged boards on the rafters. At the end of the construction phase of the gazebo, I sawed suitable pieces from broken slate sheets and covered the roof with them. After some time, I bought a slab car "for firewood" and chose the most even boards from it. After cleaning from the bark, leveling the edges and fine planing on the inside, an excellent and even stylish sheathing material turned out! But he did not immediately nail the already prepared planks, but put them in a stack to dry. Already in late autumn, due to frost, my son and I "screwed" the skin. With an electric jigsaw, arches were cut out over open openings, which gave the gazebo some kind of classic. Only the railings and the entrance jambs were made from a fifty-fifty sorted board, sawn into a beam. Since most of the slab intended for firewood was used for sheathing the gazebo, we had to buy more. True, this time the slab turned out to be not "plank", but rather "beam" (more one-dimensional in cross section). But then, having scrolled through the options in my head, I decided that it would be possible to make a floor in the gazebo from it. In winter, the most suitable timber was chosen from the newly acquired slab. Folded neatly in a pile, it dried out until the middle of summer, after which they began to make a floor from it. For convenience, I decided to make the floor a composite of three shields.
For a set of floor panels from a "bar" slab, on a flat clearing near the house, I built a simple slipway: I laid a pair of boards parallel to one another. On them, with a flat (sawn) surface, he laid the first two bars and hammered them together at the ends with nails. In the same way, he nailed the third beam, the fourth, the fifth ... Having gained the desired width, he leveled the places with an ax to one level, which would have to lie on the strapping logs and the middle beam-lag of the gazebo to a thickness of 50 mm. The resulting shield was turned over "to face the sun" and cut clean with a manual electric planer. After that, the first finished shield was taken on a cart to the gazebo and laid in place. In the same way, they recruited and rallied two more shields. The middle shield has the width of the entrance opening and is slightly longer than the side ones - by the amount of the protrusion-threshold, but so that it does not go beyond the projection of the overhang of the front edge of the roof. After sewing the shields into place with nails, the final operation began: tinted impregnation of the walls and painting the floor in brown. I would like to note that although the floor was also made from waste, it looks like deck parquet.
As it turned out later, the floor of the gazebo turned out to be quite high above the ground, so a simple porch-step had to be built. When the floor had dried up, a man who had previously stood on the street was brought into the gazebo. garden sofa and a small old factory-made table. And if the sofa fits perfectly into the bare interior of the gazebo, then the table looked like a foreign body in it. I had to take up and update it. This table was originally from the fifties of the last century: a plywood sliding top, a wooden frame with legs covered with beech veneer... In summer, the table was often taken out into the garden and placed near the sofa for a festive dinner or just a family dinner, sometimes leaving it for the night. As a result, from sudden rains and abundant morning dews and fogs, all the "beauty" of the old table swelled and peeled off! The disassembly of the table showed that its supporting frame (sides and legs) is quite strong and can still serve if the legs that have rotted from below are shortened by ten centimeters. But the countertop was better to make a new one, and not plywood, as before, but from natural wood. Trimmings of birch butt boards with a thickness of 25 mm and a width of up to 500 mm turned out to be the most suitable material for it! The initial wedge shape of the blanks led to an unexpected decision: to cut them along the line of symmetry into two equal parts, and then cut out wedge-shaped planks for the tabletop from them. After processing the surface and edges with a manual electric planer, I laid them "jack" on the table frame. This arrangement turned out to be more successful than an attempt to spread it out like a fan: it became possible to adjust the width of the tabletop by shifting the planks towards each other.
The next move is to fix the details of the tabletop on the frame with the help of "euro screws" (screw ties with countersunk heads) with drilling holes for them right in place. At the same time, the solution of their fastening somehow suggested itself - with two screws from the wide edge and one from the narrow one, flush with the even surface of the tabletop, which was already glowing with freshly planed wood. On it, the oval shape of the tabletop was easily marked and sawn out with an electric jigsaw along the drawn line. After numbering (from the back side) of the board, the details of the tabletop are unscrewed, sanded and varnished with XB. The old frame of the table is also varnished (sides with cut legs). Dried wedge-shaped strips are again attracted to the frame with a screwdriver. The finished table immediately migrated from the workshop to the gazebo in the hands of the master, into which the garden sofa had moved even earlier. And in the evening the family was already having dinner at the table, sitting on the sofa in the gazebo. Author: A.Matvejchuk We recommend interesting articles Section Builder, home master: ▪ The child won't open the box See other articles Section Builder, home master. Read and write useful comments on this article. Latest news of science and technology, new electronics: Machine for thinning flowers in gardens
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