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Milling glazing beads. Tips for the home master

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Now do-it-yourselfers are free: all sorts of different tools - their eyes run wide! Both manual and electric ... So I bought myself a wood milling machine (model IE-5003). In general, a good unit: a wide range of technological operations performed, easy to use, acceptable technical characteristics, speed up to 30000 per minute, power - 500 watts.

But there are also disadvantages. Two of them are significant in my opinion. Firstly, the regular guide has a large cutout in the center (60 mm), which inevitably leads to the rejection of the end sections of the workpieces. Secondly, the workpiece during milling must be rigidly fixed, and the feed must be carried out by moving the machine. Such a technological scheme is very inconvenient when processing long parts of a small section, for example, glazing beads, skirting boards, etc. As a result, both quality and productivity suffer.

So the idea arose on the basis of the IE-5003 machine to create a stationary woodworking mini-milling machine. What came out of this is visible in the figure.

The frame of the machine is the frame of a 600x300x300 mm aquarium that has served its purpose from a steel corner 25x25 mm. Almost any sheet material can be used for the table: steel, duralumin, plywood, textolite. I used 10mm plexiglass. From the available material, this material seemed to me the most suitable, it is quite rigid, it is easily processed by any mechanical tools both on the machine and manually, it is reliably glued together.

In the center of the table for the cutter and the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner, a figured window is cut, copied from the standard table of the milling machine. Four bosses are glued to the bottom plane, through which two round rods are passed. A milling machine is strung on them, like on skewers. The rods in the bosses and the machine on the rods are fixed with locking wing screws.

In order to withstand the necessary center-to-center distances, the alignment of the guide holes and the gaps of 1-2 mm (section A-A), the bosses are glued to the table as an assembly with the rods and the machine. At the same time, the perpendicularity of the cutter with respect to the machine table was ensured, which is extremely important for obtaining high-quality products.

Milling glazing beads
Woodworking milling mini-machine (click to enlarge): 1 - manual electric milling machine (IE-5003), 2 - bed (steel angle 25x25), 3 - 220 V socket, 4 - electrical panel plate (textolite s 10-12), 5 - toggle switch, 6 - blank, 7 - table (plexiglass s10-12), 8 - guide (pine, timber 40x80), 9 - pressure comb (plywood s10, 2 pcs.), 10 - M8 bolt, nut, washer ( 6 sets), 11 - milling cutter, 12 - M6 bolt (14 pcs.), 13 - guide bracket (duralumin corner 50x50, L540), 14 - 5x40 screw (2 pcs.), 15 - clamping cam (s10 plywood), 16 - M10 bolt, wing nut, washer, 17 - rod (steel bar, L300, 2 pcs.), 18 - M6 wing screw (8 pcs.), 19 - boss (plexiglass, 4 pcs. ), 20 - sleeve, 21 - fixing pin (steel bar, L10, 2 pcs.), 22 - torsion spring, 23 - sleeve, 24 - stop (M8 bolt, nut, washer)

For the processing of rectilinear products, a guide is installed - a bracket made of a duralumin corner (the larger the cross section, the better) with a replaceable wooden bar fixed with screws, which is selected depending on the size of the workpiece. In the center of the guide bar at the base, there is a niche for free placement of the cutter (if only the edges of the product are processed), and four holes with a diameter of 8,2 mm are drilled at the upper plane of the bar for bolting two wooden (or plywood) combs. They are located above the workpiece at the entrance (in front of the cutter) and at the exit. The spring effect created by the slanted slots ensures that the workpiece is pressed against the table and prevents accidental kickback. Vertical grooves are used to adjust the clamping force depending on the height of the workpiece. The working surface of the combs is polished with sandpaper.

From the side, the workpiece is pressed against the guide by a spring-loaded cam, in which the working surface curve (c-d) is an involute of radius R. By positioning the cam axis to the right of the cutter axis at a distance R, it is possible, using the involute, to press the workpiece tangentially to the working surface opposite the cutter axis independently from the width of the workpiece.

The construction of the involute is given in many textbooks and practical drawing aids, illustrated in the figure and therefore does not require additional explanation. Let us dwell in more detail on determining the value of the radius R. The initial condition is the range of width b of the workpieces. In this case it is accepted:

bmin ~ 10 mm, bmax ~ 110 mm.

It follows from the figure: 2pR-0,5pR = 110-10, that is, R = 21 mm, and the distance A between the axes of the cam and the cutter is 2pR + bmin ~ 141 mm.

The force element of the clamp is a torsion spring wound on an 11 mm rod made of wire with a diameter of 2 mm. The spring is put on the M10 bolt passing through the sleeve, table and clamping cam bushing (section B-B). The lower end of the spring passes into the hole in the bottom of the sleeve and in the head of the bolt, and the upper end - along the groove and into the hole in the cam itself. Two pins with a diameter of 3 mm are pressed into the upper end of the sleeve, which enter the holes drilled from the bottom of the table around a hole with a diameter of 16 mm, and fix it, keeping it from turning.

To the right of the clamp, a stop is fixed through the groove in the table, which prevents the clamp from unwinding after processing the product.

Adjusting the clamp to the required force is as follows. We move the stop to the right, after loosening the nut. Having turned the lamb a few turns, we lower the sleeve down so that the fixing pins come out of the holes. We apply the workpiece to the guide, bring the clamp to it and turn the sleeve, twisting the spring to the desired force. We insert the pins into the nearest holes and tighten the wing nut. We bring and fix the emphasis at a distance of 2-3 mm from the clamp.

The remaining steps for setting up the milling machine are carried out in accordance with the attached instructions.

Author: A.Uzdin

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