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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Key well. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master A spring, a source, a key, all these names refer to a mysterious place where a timid stream of clean and cool water breaks out from under the ground. All peoples have always had a reverent and careful attitude to such a place, because as this source suddenly appeared, so suddenly it could disappear, no one knows why. They tried in every possible way to protect the spring, arrange it in such a way that nothing threatened this defenseless stream and it was possible to use this natural gift for as long as possible. Special, key wells are usually equipped here, which are of two types; ascending and descending. They are the simplest in design and do not require a large amount of building materials. When building them, you can do with only stone and clay. Ascending key wells For such a well, a place is cleared, it is carefully deepened and equipped. A water receiver is placed in the resulting recess: a solid wooden box, a barrel without a bottom or a small wooden frame, a low concrete ring. The walls of the recess are strengthened by laying out with stone or brick. The space between the walls of the water intake and the pound is filled with crumpled clay with a layer of 15-20 cm and it is carefully compacted. In order for this clay not to be washed away by water, it is covered with flagstone or covered with gravel. Gravel or crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is also poured at the bottom of the well. Coarse river sand is also suitable instead of gravel. When constructing an ascending well, the following must be provided. The edges of the water inlet (concrete ring, box, barrel, or simply a tank) must be below the water level that the key can raise. If the walls of the tank are made higher, a drain hole should be cut in them so that the spring water does not rise above it, but drains. If the gels do not fulfill this condition, then over time, under the influence of the growing mass of water and its pressure, the spring can find a way out in another place on the surface of the earth, draining its excess there, or completely leave this place. As a result, you can lose spring water - the most delicious, clean and, of course, healthy. In order not to pollute (albeit running) water with dirty dishes, a water drawer should be removed from the tank, through which the accumulated water will drain - it is collected in any container or container. From above, the tank is covered with a tight lid that prevents leaves, dust, insects from entering the well. atmospheric water.
A blind area is arranged around the well, thanks to which rainwater drains to the side, bypassing the well. The blind area should be covered with cement slabs, brick, flagstone, concrete or asphalt. It is also desirable to arrange a fence around the source, placing it at a distance of at least 3 - 4 meters from the reservoir. The fence protects the well from animals approaching it. The water drained from the well should be diverted as far as possible. To do this, they dig a special groove of such depth that the water does not spread to the sides and does not saturate the soil. It is recommended to lay out the bottom and walls of the groove with a layer of crumpled greasy clay, which prevents the penetration of drained water into the soil. So that the clay is not washed away by water, it must be overlaid with flagstone. Descending Key Wells They settle down where the spring is weak, "without pressure." The reservoir for it is small, "accumulative". It can be made of any materials, but always with a wooden, concrete, brick or stone bottom. Since the spring water carries particles of silt, soil or other undesirable impurities, the tank should be divided into two parts. The partition can be made of any materials and placed across the flow of water. Thus, two compartments are obtained: water enters the first, settles here and flows in its pure form through the top of the partition into the second, from which it leaves the tank through the drain hole and is discharged along the drain groove as far as possible from the well. If the key is very weak, you can do without a reservoir by filling out the aquifer and the water outlet itself with any material. For example, running a stream through a pipe. But even in this case, it will be much better if a partition of any material is arranged across the flow of water with a pipe of suitable diameter inserted into it. If its bandwidth is not enough, you can put several nearby at once. Before entering the pipe, the water flow must pass through a sufficiently thick layer (20 - 30 cm) of gravel or crushed stone in order to be cleaned of all kinds of impurities and enter the distribution pipe completely clean. Such water can be immediately drawn into any dishes from the drain pipe.
These wells are the simplest and cheapest in terms of device. But sometimes they are far from home, which is not always convenient, especially with increased water consumption. Therefore, a mine well is arranged near the house to obtain drinking water from shallow aquifers or soil layers. mine wells They are called mine because for the construction of such wells, mines are arranged - log cabins made of wood, rings made of concrete or reinforced concrete, masonry made of stone (most often iron ore), or very well-burned brick (but not scarlet in color, which very quickly collapses from dampness ). The total depth of such wells is usually no more than 10–20 m and rarely exceeds 40–50 m. Mine wells consist of a head (upper part), a trunk (the longest part), a water intake part (immersed in the water itself) and a sump (the lower part of the trunk, which suits me when water is constantly taken and supplied). Depending on the materials used for the construction of the shaft, shaft wells can be wooden or concrete. brick and stone First of all, we will talk about wooden ones. The head is the ground part of the well, it protects it from dust, grass, snow and rain, various foreign objects entering the water. In winter, the head protects the well from freezing and icing. A waterproof cover made of any material is fixed on top, which tightly closes the well and at the same time can be easily removed (or, depending on the design, it rises, extends, rotates around its axis).
The trunk is a strictly vertical space going down, that is, a part of the shaft to the entire depth of the well. So that the soil does not crumble from the stacks of the mine and firmly clings to them. it is reinforced with wooden walls (they are called a log house). The frame consists of log crowns or planks, cut down from dense dry wood. To facilitate the work, the crowns of the log house (logs or plates) are prepared and assembled at the top for control, marking accordingly. The lowest crown is made first. followed by the second, and so on. It is necessary to fit the logs and plates of the crowns to each other as tightly as possible so that top water and various contaminants, including the soil itself, cannot seep between the grooves. Instead of a wooden frame, as noted above, concrete rings, stone or brickwork or monolithic reinforced concrete are used. Regardless of the material used, all components of the well shaft should be laid as tightly as possible. The steep shape of the trunk is considered the best, but more often it is made square and less often rectangular. The simplest is the square shape. The water intake part (sumpf) is the lower part of the trunk in which water is collected and accumulated. Depending on the required amount of water per day, the water intake part is performed at different depths (heights). This part of the log house is constructed from the most durable material that can serve the maximum number of years. It is designed to collect the required amount of water with a small flow. In this regard, the well must be buried to the required depth below the aquifer. You can increase the lower part of the log house by arranging a sump in the form of a tent. soils Arranging a mine well, take into account the characteristics of the soil. The most dangerous of them are the so-called quicksands, these are very soft muddy or wet sandy layers with a grain size of 0,10-0,15 mm, saturated with water. By the presence of it and the ground, the degree of its buoyancy is determined (from small to large). Loose soils are loose, the particles in them are weakly linked to each other. These include sand, gravel, crushed stone, pebbles. These soils are easy to develop, but just as easy to crumble. Therefore, in the process of digging, they often have to be strengthened with plank walls with spacers. Soft soils are mostly earthy rocks, they are muddy and sandy-clayey. Particles of such soils are not very tightly bound together. Usually such layers are called plastic. They are developed easily, and because of the shedding of the soil, they also require the construction of walls. Some soils are porous, they are rather weak. These include gypsum, shale, etc. These soils are also developed easily, but crumble weakly. This reduces the labor intensity of digging a mine, There are soils that belong to rocks of medium hardness. For example, dense limestones, shales, sandstones, calcareous spar. They are harder to work with. than with the weak. Finally, strong pounds, whose breeds have great hardness. These include slab limestones, quartz rocks, feldspars, etc. It is difficult to work with them, but they crumble less and less often. Crowbars, picks, scalpels and other durable tools are used in the development of rocks that can be manually piled. A light pound is chosen with an ordinary shovel, and lifted with buckets, tubs, reinforced on blocks. Of course, operations can also be mechanized, which, of course, greatly simplifies the work.
Each soil during operation requires special attention and compliance with safety regulations. It is not enough to take into account its properties and dig accordingly. Otherwise, a person building a well with his own hands may be injured or, worst of all, be covered up. Sometimes there are incorrect advice on the construction of wells. In particular, it is proposed to lay the well first in a shallow dug pit, about 4-6 meters, then collect the log house and gradually lower it into the depth of the aquifer, choosing the soil along the way and laying the log crowns from below. This technique is the most difficult, but, oddly enough, it is recommended as the easiest, which is completely wrong. The easiest, fastest and least time-consuming way to build a well is to collect a log house in an open pit, starting from the bottom, and climb up. The soil taken out of the mine must be carried away, in order to avoid the collapse of its walls, In order to imagine the composition of the soil and the properties of the soil that will be encountered when digging a well, it is necessary to first obtain data about it. For this purpose, a probe is used. It is a cone-shaped steel pin made of 15-20 mm thick strip steel with holes 20-25 mm in diameter, drilled every 100 mm or with teeth on both sides. The teeth, as a rule, are raised upwards, sometimes there are recesses in the teeth of a kind of spoon, with which they hook the ground. The length of the probe is 2-3 meters. A gate or just a pipe is inserted into the eye of the probe, with the help of which it is rotated. You need to remove the probe with a slight rotation, which makes it easier to exit it from the ground. The composition of the soil can also be determined by drilling a well, but for this it is necessary to have the appropriate equipment. Signs of an aquifer The construction of a well begins, first of all, with finding a source of water underground and harvesting materials and tools. If there are wells nearby or springs are leaking, then it is very easy to determine the depth of the water. But if there are no wells and spring water nearby, you should look for its sources. Signs of shallow water include the following. 1. Places with green and dense grass on gentle, shallow beams during a drought in June-August. 2. Fog of different density, appearing in the evening above the earth's surface in places where there are no rivers, lakes, swamps, ponds. Where the fog is dense, there is water. 3. The level of streams, rivers, lakes, where they exist. 4. Moisture-loving plants (bulrush, sedge), found on the usual vegetation cover. 5. Places of accumulation in the air of mosquitoes or midges in the summer after sunset. 6. Places of formation in winter of clearings and ice in the snow cover. 7. Places with bright green vegetation in the valleys, when in other places the grass cover has already faded. Also, water can be at shallow depths in river floodplains, valleys, in areas with landslides.
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