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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING Electric drills. Operation and repair. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering
Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Household Appliances The author shares the experience gained over the years of operation of the power tool. There is a lot of interesting information regarding the repair of this tool. Summer. It's time for a variety of repairs. A manual drilling machine IE-1035.E-1RU2 with a power of 600 W was purchased. As it turned out, the performance of a 600 W electric drill appeared on the Ukrainian market quite recently, before that a 420 W drill was produced (IE1035.E-1U2). Many of us are familiar with it. Without it, many work operations are simply impossible. The first unfortunate circumstance is the failure of the electric drill by the end of the first (!) working day. It turned out that the cause of the breakdown was the power regulator (speed) of the electric drill. This power regulator (PM) did not match the 600W version. The manufacturer did not bother to install a more powerful RM and put the one that equipped the 420 W drills. So the defect was "programmed" in advance. I shared this event with my friend, who had the same drill. It turned out that a similar RM was installed in his copy! These RMs have been replaced with more powerful ones. By the way, the RMs under consideration fail quite often, especially in rural areas, due to power surges. It only takes a neighbor to turn on the welding machine... You forget about replacing the RM in an electric drill when you connect it through voltage stabilizers. Personally, I used ferroresonant stabilizers of CH-315 types [1, 2]. Other types of ferroresonant stabilizers are also quite suitable. You just need to have a power reserve. In [1, 2], the nuances of the parallel connection of ferroresonant stabilizers for working on one powerful load are described in detail, since the power of an electric drill usually exceeds the power of the stabilizer. The problem is that stabilizers of this type, as a rule, are already in landfills. It's okay that the stabilizer buzzes a lot, because the drill buzzes louder. It is important that there is many years of experience in the trouble-free operation of various electric drills from CH-315 stabilizers. Already three such stabilizers make it possible to turn on not only powerful electric drills, but also pumps for lifting water from a well. The efficiency of these stabilizers is low, so I used the ability to quickly turn off each stabilizer operating on one load. So, if the drill works with thin sheet metal, chipboard (wood), cardboard or plastic, then even for a 350 W drill, one CH-315 is enough. This saves electricity. When the RM failed, it was removed and jumpers installed so that it was possible to work with a drill. Too high speeds were "knocked down" by LATR until they acquired a regular RM. Transformers TS-180, TS-200, TS-250, TS-270, etc. are also suitable, you just need to make taps from the I winding, which is used here in autotransformer switching. These transformers can be dismantled easily and quickly. More about RM. The RM itself, the capacitor of its body kit and wires are connected carelessly. But all this is exposed to significant vibrations. Soon, because of this, the drill starts to fail, does not obey the regulator, "sticks". As it turns out, the connection of the PM with the rest of the drill circuit elements is made with small screws. The latter "bite" into the wires even before trying to tighten the screws. A slight movement of the screwdriver in order to improve contact - and the wire is destroyed (falls off). Therefore, the connection system was completely redone. In the simplest case, they took a copper wire D1,5 mm or more (if only it would fit in the holes of the contact terminals). It was clamped with regular screws. And already the remaining parts and conductors were connected to the segments of such wires by soldering. After such an operation, there were no repeated repairs of a similar nature. Now about the most simple, but also insidious. There may be no lubrication in the drill compartment where the gears are located. These drills for 420 and 600 W are easy to disassemble: you need to unscrew 4 M4 screws to make sure that there is grease. But do not be surprised that after removing the screws, the gearbox cover cannot be removed. Gently tapping on the gearbox cover, you need to move it from its seat. The accuracy of manufacturing these parts is higher than that of ordinary consumer goods, so you have to tinker a bit to remove the cover. The lubricant should fill virtually the entire space inside the gearbox housing. A small volume must be left free (0,5 matchbox), as is done in sealed compartments. If strong sparking is observed at the points of contact of the brushes with the drill collector, then it is necessary to clean the collector from plaque and soot. Replace brushes if necessary. It often happens that the sparking increases near one of the brushes. Another important question. Intensive use of an electric drill, as a rule, leads to the unusability of the cartridge itself, in which the drill is clamped. The chuck is "eaten up" with frequent replacement of drills (working with metal requires a set of drills of different diameters). The teeth of the chuck worm are destroyed by clamping the drill with a key. This means that the life of the cartridge itself depends on the key. With the same intensity of work, one cartridge lasts a month or two, the other - more than a year. Recently, cases of selling drills with defective keys, cartridges or cartridges that do not match the keys have become more frequent. What can you do to protect yourself in such situations? First, do not rush to install the chuck on the drill shaft and go home. You need to have a drill with you to experience the clamp in action for real. Secondly, you need to check the RM as well, but not in the way the seller does (i.e. at idle). You should press the drill against any iron part of considerable thickness and try to drill with a drill close to the maximum diameter for this cartridge. If the drill fails in the first minute of operation, then the buyer is definitely lucky. Thirdly, the key from the kit clearly does not match the cartridge, and there are no others available. We take the cartridge in our hands and look in other places for the key that would best fit this cartridge. Remember that the cartridge costs twice as much as the key. Sellers often complete drills with non-factory keys (cooperative). How can they be distinguished? Insert the key into the chuck. If the hole for installing the key in the cartridge is higher (cooperatives usually make mistakes by 1 mm or more), then the cartridge will break soon (and the key, even more so). Since the cooperative key is cheaper, the factory sellers sell separately. Due to inaccurate manufacturing (as well as poor quality material) of the cooperative key, its protrusions quickly break. All these "little things" can cost the buyer dearly. Bad clamping of drills - and work with a drill turns into hell! Drills in the cartridge are scrolled, information is erased on them. People who need to alternate between drills of different diameters usually use multiple electric drills, saving time on changing drills. Fourthly, manufacturers often save on the length of power cords. The cord with a length of 1,5 m is obviously short, it must be immediately replaced with a 3-meter one. To prevent the drill from overheating, especially in hot weather, after every 30 minutes of continuous work, pause for 10-15 minutes. It is advisable to put the electric drill under the fan during the break. I had to clean the channels from rust with a hedgehog nozzle with a diameter of 10 cm. After half an hour, the drill looked like a small stove. If you use a voltage stabilizer, then you need to cool it too: for a stabilizer, overheating is like death. Increased mains voltage also leads to overheating (even without load). This can be combated by including a powerful incandescent lamp in the mains wire. Powerful electric drills have specific effects, for example, the plastic handle breaks. It is attached to the side wall of the electric drill body. Without it, it is impossible to operate the electric drill. But even in the normal state, these handles are constantly unscrewed, leading to injuries. Therefore, it is desirable to make additional fastenings by cutting a thread in a metal wall and fixing it with additional screws. Particular attention should be paid to new handles with protrusions and burrs. References:
Author: A.G. Zyzyuk
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