Christmas-tree decoration Asterisk New Year's electronic 5-beam with microprocessor control. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Color and music settings

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So, what do we need to make a Christmas decoration "Asterisk":

1. Desire
2. Fantasy
3. Two hands + one head, preferably belonging to the same person - that is, you
4. A piece of breadboard measuring 27 x 25 holes
5. A piece of breadboard measuring 13x13 holes
6. 35 bicolor LEDs (eg red-green). If there is tension with two-color ones, you can also put one-color ones. Red or yellow or whatever you like :)
7. A piece of mounting wire (better - MGTF).
8. A microcontroller that has 11 free I / O channels, for example, our favorite AT90S2313 (Attiny 2313).
9. Decoder for 10 outputs, for example 155 ID10
10. 10 transistors pnp conductivity, such as KT502 or KT361
11. Well, and a little more small things, which, I think, will be found if you properly rummage through the drawer.

Well then, let's go!

First, we take two-color LEDs (they look something like this):

And a piece of a 25x27 mockup that looks like a piece of a mockup.

We install LEDs on it in the following order:

To make it easier for you to install - here is a drawing. Black indicates those holes into which the legs of the LEDs are inserted:

The outputs of the LEDs are arranged as follows: in the middle there is a common (cathode) along the edges - anodes.

We install the diodes so that for all diodes the anodes of one color are on top, the other is on the bottom, which will save us from unnecessary headaches when connecting them. This is easy to do, since the conclusions have different lengths (not just like that, but in order to distinguish between them). In addition, if you look closely, you can notice differences at the base of the conclusions.

Well, then, we install, bite off the excess, solder it. It turns out something like:

now we twist three veins of the MGTF mounting wire, tin it and make connections according to the drawing (well, or come up with your own):

bottom view

Done - rinse with alcohol or acetone, check. We take the mounting wire again, only now we do not grind it into veins - but use the whole one. We connect what has not yet been connected. The following drawing shows connection points. They are also numbered on the diagram.

All. The asterisk is ready.

Wash it again in acetone. Then we saw off the excess to get something that looks like a five-pointed Soviet star. We saw off carefully - so as not to kill the installation and LEDs. We process with a file. It should turn out somewhere like:

Now we need to make a control scheme.

Control scheme

(click to enlarge)

Read the chart carefully. What's not clear?

I explain: points 0 ... 6 are the points of connection of common cathodes. They match the corresponding points on the sprocket board drawing.

Points D 00 ... D 41 are connected to the anode groups of the star rays. The first digit means the beam number, the second - the group of anodes. We look at the drawing to understand:

In addition, the diagram does not show the programming connector that is connected to the controller outputs: MOSI, MISO, SCK, Reset. The board has this connector, it is labeled X 1.

All right, we can continue!

Yes, by the way, a list of what we need at this stage (at the beginning we already talked about this in passing, now more specifically):

Well, now - we take the second piece of the breadboard, which is 13x13. We dump the details on the table.

Install:

We install. We solder. Soldered?

We check:

Mine, we conduct connections with veins, and also solder SMD resistors and capacitors. Resistors are shown in red, capacitors in blue. It is best to take SMD components of size 0805, or, at worst, 0603. Do not settle for 1206 - they do not fit between two breadboard patches. We look at the drawing, solder.

My, pull the wires (indicated in red):

OK it's all over Now! You should end up with something like this:

It remains only to connect the corresponding points on the two boards - and you can do the first inclusion.

True, when you turn it on for the first time, the LEDs will not light up: we still have not flashed the controller. So, for now, we can only check the device from the point of view of "whether the FAQ is warming up."

Although ... Okay, so be it - here you are firmware test program. If everything works correctly, the asterisk should glow like this:

While all. As soon as the software is written, there will be a continuation.

By the way - as you understand, all this disgrace is controlled by the controller. And this makes it possible to implement the most crazy ideas in the field of light dynamics. Of course, I have my own fantasy ... more precisely, a generator of crazy ideas. But I would also like to hear the opinion of the public. Namely - the implementation of what effects the public would like to receive in this device.

Publication: radiokot.ru, cxem.net

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