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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING Hive heating. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering
Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Home, household, hobby Honey bees have lived on Earth for over 10 million years. And of course, they tried to adapt to the habitat in the wild, but not at home ... They often come out of wintering weakened, prone to infectious diseases. Or even whole families die. Although it seems that here, too, there is, as they say, a gap. S. Kalashnikov, a beekeeper-inventor and a longtime subscriber of "M-K", developed an original method that allows bees to significantly facilitate wintering, creating truly comfortable conditions for them using additional (electric) heating of the hives. True, for this it was necessary to modernize the design of the latter somewhat. Here it is proposed to use as heaters ... old, familiar to every amateur photographer electrolusters. And set the temperature required for heating using a home-made electronic temperature stabilizer with an output stage made on a powerful industrial thyristor. Honey bees are known to be social insects. They live in large families, with a clearly defined hierarchical structure. Moreover, in their hive (nest) they try to maintain cleanliness and order. So even a harsh winter, in general, is not terrible. Naturally, with a proper supply of food, a "comfortable" dry "dwelling" and other conditions, the observance of which is vigilantly monitored by instinct. But sometimes man irresponsibly intervenes in this harmony of nature. Violating the laws of ecology, it poisons the life of "its smaller brothers." Here even the super-resistant bees do not stand up, they start to get sick. And in the most difficult time for them - the autumn-winter period and early spring - they can die. I don’t know about others, but I will never wish to be a gravedigger for my winged favorites. So I decided to make their wintering as easy as possible by equipping the hives with special electric heating. And in order to withstand "comfortable" conditions with the utmost accuracy, he also designed an electronic thermostat with an output stage capable of delivering up to 20-40 kW to the load (the power depends on the type of thyristor used). Already the first wintering of my pets in modified, electrically heated hives showed that I was on the right track. I was convinced that each of the bee colonies endured all the vagaries of the weather much better and met the spring, as they say, fully armed. And my bees needed much less food for wintering.
By the way, all this is in strict accordance with science. And she, in particular, claims: the minimum energy consumption of the club of bees is when the temperature at its outer border is +8°C. It is under such wintering conditions that optimal food intake is observed, the least filling of the intestines in winged honey plants by spring. Consequently, a greater preservation of bees is also ensured, their best preparation for the maximum harvest during flowering gardens is achieved; increases productivity, commercial return of honey from each hive. Further creative searches led to the need for a more rational placement of the electric heater. By trial and error, I was convinced: its place is in the bottom part, under the frames (see illustrations). This gives a really uniform heating of the entire internal space of the hive. Analyzing the technical solution I propose, it is easy to notice the presence in the design of the bottom part of the hive of a "cold corridor", a kind of "veranda". This is by no means a whim of the developer, but a necessity dictated by life itself. Indeed, in the spring, the so-called "returning" colds are not uncommon, while in the hive by that time it is advisable to keep the temperature from + 20 ° C to + 25 ° C. And if there was no "cold corridor", the bees could be provoked to fly. At sub-zero outdoor temperatures, this is more than dangerous. Well, if there is a "veranda" nothing terrible happens anymore. The bees, feeling not too comfortable in it, no longer fly out of the hive: it's cold. As for the specific features of the proposed improvement of the standard 12-frame hives for electric heating, they are all clear from the illustrations. The bottom part, as it is easy to see, is a team. The floor is made of 40-50 mm boards of the "lining" type. It is mounted on two wooden bars-runners. Side walls - from boards with a section of 35X XI50 mm, fastened together by crossbars made of beams of appropriate sizes. The Ganniman grill is attached to the front. And so that between it and the floor there is a notch - a passage of 10X450 mm for bees. A profile board is rigidly installed parallel to the Ganniman lattice, separating (together with a 40X40 mm beam) a 45-mm "cold corridor" from the rest of the hive structure. In the upper part of the formed "veranda" - a new passage for the bees. Its size along the entire profile is also 10 X 450 mm. Behind the bottom of the hive closes (along with the crossbar 40 X 20 mm) 20-mm wooden door. Tightly entering the nests made for it in the side walls, it has a hinged (you can also use a loop) connection to the floor. And from the rest of the structure of the hive, the bottom part is separated by an anti-tick grate, for fixing which there are special grooves in the side walls and a recess in the profile board. The heating element is located in the center of the bottom at a certain angle so that debris and wax chips do not accumulate on it. The terminals for connecting the heating element are brought to the side wall of the bottom. As such, home-made ones were used (or from old electric heaters - irons, kettles), but it is better to use standard connectors such as ShR or 2RM. Now - about the thermostat. Its circuit diagram is quite simple.
When the toggle switch (SAt) is turned on, mains voltage is supplied to transformer T1. 15-20V received from its secondary winding are rectified by the VD2-VD5 diode bridge and smoothed by the C2R3C1 filter. The power stabilized with the help of VD1 is supplied to the transistor VT1, which, under the influence of the base voltage, is triggered and opens the transistor VT2 with its collector current. As a result, a positive voltage of 2-10 V appears on the emitter load R11 of the latter, which is applied to the control electrode of a powerful thyristor VS1 of the PTL100 type. The load of the device is the EN-9 elements mentioned earlier, connected in parallel (up to 400 pieces). Install them, as already mentioned, inside the hive. EN-9 starts to heat up and release heat into the subframe space. As soon as the temperature reaches the specified limits (at the level of the lower bars of the frames, where a mercury contact thermometer is located in one of the hives), the CRT will work and bypass the VT1 base circuit. This transistor will turn off. As a result, VT2 will also lock. Resistor R2 will not have the same voltage drop. Consequently, the powerful thyristor VS1 will also close. This means that no current will flow through the load. The EN-9 elements will stop heating up and the temperature inside the hives will start to drop. But this process is monitored by CRT. And as soon as the contacts of the mercury thermometer open, the cycle of the circuit will repeat. Now a few words directly about the design and details of the device. It is assembled (see illustrations) on a board made of double-sided foil fiberglass 2 x 62 x 100 mm. All details of the circuit, except for the KTs405 diode assembly, are located on top. Moreover, their choice is not so critical. In particular, the Zener diode D814D can be replaced by D813 or a similar semiconductor device. Electrolytic capacitors - type K-50. Resistors R1...R3 - small-sized, low-power with a tolerance of ± 20% of the nominal or the like. Resistances R1, R2 type MLT-0,5 W, resistance R3 - MYAT 1,0 W. Ratings: R1 - 82 kOhm, R2 - 1,3 kOhm, R3 - 200 Ohm. The step-down transformer T1 can be taken from any transistor-powered receiver (Minsk, Naroch, Efir, etc.) or made independently. For its manufacture, a standard set of Sh-12 with a thickness of 20/24 mm is used. The network winding has 2800 turns of PEL-0,13 wire. The secondary contains 109 turns of PEL-0,8. The PTL100 thyristor can be replaced with more modern powerful industrial devices T3-250, T122-25, T123-200 T123-250, T132-50, T151-100, T161-160, T161-160, T171-200, T171-250 (last number in the name indicates the current - in amperes). Instead of MP42B, GT104 (B, C), GT108, GT203V, GT305 with any index, GT326 (A, B), GT340 (C, D, D), and instead of KT315-KT312 (A, C), KT325 (A, B, C) KT358V. And as a load resistor, I recommend using the appropriate number (one per hive) of elements (from the FG-9 photogloss) - EN-9 with parameters U=220 V, P=160 W, R=300 Ohm. And not with an open winding (they should not be used), but with a closed one. Connecting wires from the thermostat to the hive are made with a RPSh type wire of the appropriate section.
And further. Remember that the hives are outdoors with 110 volts connected to them. This requires careful work. The hives are connected to the thermostat only when the device is turned off. The wires must be double insulated, laid so that they do not interfere, do not lie on the road. All connections must have reliable contact without bare areas. Only after making sure that everything, as they say, is honor by honor, turn on the device in a 220 V network. After 20-30 minutes, they check the heating in the hives, for which they open the bottom door and determine (by touch) whether it is warm there. In winter, the temperature in the hives is set from + 2 CC to + 4 CC. And after the flyby, the temperature is raised to 20 ° C ... + 25 ° C. Finally, the last thing: do not forget to put a drinking bowl for bees with warm water in your apiary. I wish you success! Author: S.Kalashnikov
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