Welding from an electric motor. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / welding equipment

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For those who have not yet acquired a welding machine (SA), I recommend making it yourself on the basis of a failed asynchronous electric motor. The costs are minimal, but the result ... And a lot of developments that can be used to turn a scrap stator into a good "welder" have been published. I would be glad if my tried and tested tips are useful to someone.

Experimenting with different CAs, I became convinced that the pursuit of a powerful device (inherent, as a rule, for beginners) is far from always economically justified. For most work at home, a "welder" is quite suitable, made on the basis of the stator of an asynchronous electric motor with a power of 1-1,5 kW, having a magnetic circuit with a cross section of 40 cm2. To connect to a 220 V household network with the issuance of welding 40, 50 and 60 V to the arc, the primary winding of such a SA must have 220 turns, and the secondary - 60, with taps from the 40th and 50th "tire" turns.

Rice. 1. "Welder" from the stator of a faulty asynchronous electric motor: 1 - electrical insulating base; 2 - terminal (6 pcs.); 3 - clamp; 4 - secondary winding (60 turns of a thickened busbar of a bundle of 9-15 PEV2 wires with a total cross section of copper conductors of 30-35 mm2, wrapped with fabric-based electrical tape, taps from the 40th and 50th turns); 5 - interlayer insulation (2 layers of linen or cotton fabric, followed by impregnation with bakelite varnish); 6 - primary winding (220 turns of the bus - a bundle of 3-6 PEV2 wires with a total cross section of copper wires 6-8 mm2, wrapped with fabric-based electrical tape); 7 - reinforced insulation (execution - as in paragraph 5, but there are twice as many insulating layers); 8 - torus-magnetic core; 9 - handle

After the stator is in your hands, do not rush to cut down or burn out the winding. After all, in most cases it is quite suitable as a source material for the "high-ampere tires" needed by the SA.

The stator winding of most induction motors is a series of overlapping sections. Laying of each of them is made in the corresponding grooves of the magnetic circuit. Having carefully examined the stator, determine which of the sections was laid last. Start dismantling with it.

First of all, try to knock out the wedges (usually wooden) with which the turns of the winding are fixed in the grooves. If this cannot be done with the help of improvised means, "use a device in the form of a knife of a special configuration made from a blade of a metalwork jigsaw.

Rice. 2. Knife for removing wedges from the stator groove

The technology here is simple. Moving the knife towards you, remove the chips from the wedge, achieving its dismemberment into parts. After removing the debris that has formed, begin to remove the section itself from the grooves, turn by turn. Do it carefully and slowly; in the reverse order of factory installation. With the release of the last section, unwind the wires and straighten them, getting lengths from 20 to 30 m. From them, make tires of the required section.

So, to obtain a bus of the primary (network) winding of the SA, it is necessary to put together 3-6 wire-blanks so that the total cross section of the copper conductors is 6-8 mm2. The resulting bundle should be wrapped along the entire length with fabric-based electrical tape. Quite acceptable are long insulating strips sewn (glued) from scraps of linen or cotton fabric. Even paper tape, cut from, say, postal or cement bags, will do.

In order for the work on the manufacture of an insulated bus to go smoothly, tie the original bundle of wires in several places with twine and roll it into a bay with a diameter of 600-800 mm. Apply the tape itself at an angle to the bundle so that each subsequent turn of it overlaps half of the previous one, and the insulation turns out to be two-layer. When using fabric or paper, do not forget that these materials need to be impregnated with bakelite varnish or any (excluding water-based) paint.

Similarly, make a bus for the secondary winding of the welding transformer. Only now there should be so many wires in its composition that the total cross section of copper conductors is 30-35 mm2.

Now about the finalization of the magnetic circuit. Its essence is to remove the jumpers between the sections from the base stator with a hammer and a chisel. And the resulting sharp edges should be smoothed with a file. The finished magnetic core is covered with several layers of insulation according to the above technology.

To facilitate winding, insert the wire into the core and rotate the entire ring until the last turn is loosely put on the torus-core of the "welder". It turns out, as it were, two interconnected links of a heterogeneous (steel magnetic circuit and copper coil) circuit.

Rice. 3. Laying the turns of the busbar, rolled into a bay, on a torus-magnetic circuit with reinforced insulation

It is better to wind the transformer tires with two people. First, clamp the edge of the magnetic circuit in a vice, then insert the end of the rolled-up bus through the center of the torus, and, gently turning the latter, make it look like two chain links connected to each other. Having fixed the beginning of the primary winding on the surface of the torus with twine, continue to rotate the bus, tightly laying the turns on the insulated magnetic circuit.

The first layer of turns is followed by the laying of lightweight insulation, the impregnation of the resulting "sandwich" with thinned bakelite varnish or diluted paint. Then - a new winding layer, distributed evenly over the entire surface of the torus, followed by insulation. The coils are laid strictly radially.

The 220th turn completes the primary (network) winding. Next comes the secondary (welding). Lay it, having previously made reinforced multi-layer insulation. In total, in this winding, as already noted, there are 60 (with loop taps from the 40th and 50th) turns.

General rule: if it suddenly turns out that the wire (bus) is shorter than required, then the build-up should be carried out outside the winding, properly drawing up the appropriate conclusions for this.

The design of a homemade welding transformer depends on the capabilities of the author-performer. One of the simplest and most acceptable options is the "side" fixing of the "welder" on an insulating base with a simple clamp with a carrying handle.

Author: P. Belousov, Volgograd region

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