Household electrical appliances. Electric irons. Scheme, description

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING
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Household electrical appliances. Electric irons. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

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Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Household Appliances

The most commonly used electrical appliance is electric iron. After all, indeed, for example, a refrigerator with a stretch can be replaced by a cellar, a washing machine - by a washboard and hard-working hands; but today hardly anyone knows how to use a rubel and a rolling pin for ironing clothes, and it is dangerous to iron modern fabrics with a coal iron (even if someone inherited it).

First, about what types of irons the industry offers us. Their characteristics are contained in the marking of irons. So, alphabetic characters are decoded as follows:

UT - iron with thermostat;
UTP - iron with thermostat and steam humidifier;
UTPR - iron with thermostat, steam humidifier and sprinkler;
UTU - iron with a thermostat, weighted.

The meaning of digital characters is even easier to decipher: the first number following the alphabetic indicators indicates the power consumed by the iron (in W); the second number hides its mass (in kg). Example: marking UTP1000-1,4 means - "an iron with a thermostat and a steam humidifier with a power of 1000 W (1 kW) and a mass of 1,4 kg."

It is no coincidence that increased attention is paid to the mass of the iron, because the maximum heating time of the sole depends on it; there is a pattern here: for light irons, for example, UT1000-1,2, the maximum heating time of the sole is 2,5 minutes; for heavier ones, such as, for example, UTU1000-2,5, up to 7,5 minutes.

On fig. 86 shows the device of an electric iron of the UT brand.
Rice. 86. The device of an electric iron brand UT: 1 - sole; 2 - tubular electric heater (TEN); 3 - thermostat; 4 - heat-insulating gasket; 5 - cord; 6 - housing cover; 7 - handle; 8 - signal light; 9 - housing casing.

Structurally, the iron consists of an aluminum or cast iron sole, into which a tubular electric heater (TEN) is pressed; a casing made of heat-resistant plastic, separated from the sole by a heat-insulating gasket; handles and covers (casing, handle and cover form the body of the iron). Other additions - an automatic thermostat, a steam humidifier and a sprinkler (together with a water tank) - are also mounted under the cover of the iron body. To connect the iron to the electrical network, a connecting cord with a movable input is used.

Control over the state of the heater is carried out visually using a signal light: when the heater is turned off, the light goes out - this means that it has heated up to the temperature set by the thermostat. The 3,5 V signal light is powered by a voltage drop in a small section of a nichrome spiral connected in series with the heating element.

The basis of the thermostat is a bimetallic plate that controls the high-speed switch. The thermostat operates as follows: the bimetallic plate heats up from the soleplate of the iron; due to the difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion of the two metals, it bends and presses the contact plate; as a result, the circuit opens, the heating element turns off and starts to cool down. But, as soon as the bimetallic plate cools down to a certain temperature, its bend straightens out, releases the contact plate, and the heating element turns on again.

A common problem is a malfunction of the iron's power cord. A break in the cores of the power cord, as a rule, occurs at the point of its entry into the handle of the iron. Since the lead is movable, the cord is constantly subjected to bending during ironing. Such a breakdown does not at all require a complete replacement of the cord, the repair consists in restoring its integrity: the cord is cut off at the break point, the screw clamp is freed from pieces of cores, the end of the cord of the required length is re-stripped and re-embedded in the terminal block.

An iron whose tubular electric heater has failed (burned out) cannot be repaired, since the heating element is pressed into the sole of the iron.

One of the malfunctions of the thermostat is its knocked down setting, which leads to insufficient heating or overheating of the iron. Restoring the setting is quite within the power of a home electrician. To do this, turn the thermostat knob counterclockwise until it stops (that is, set it to the minimum temperature), disassemble the iron and separate the casing from the soleplate with the thermostat. Then, with your finger, slightly raise and lower the end of the movable contact plate at the point of contact with the bimetallic plate: when the contacts are turned on and off, clicks will be heard that can even be felt tactilely.

Next, you will have to work with two hands: continue to click the contacts with one, and with a screwdriver held in the other hand, turn the adjusting screw clockwise until the clicks stop, then turn the adjusting screw back (counterclockwise) half a turn - clicks should resume. This position of the thermostat will correspond to the setting for the minimum heating temperature of the sole. The repair is completed with the assembly of the iron. The conclusions of all the electric elements of the iron - the heating element, the spiral, the signal lamp cartridge and the power cord - are located on the block at the back of the iron and are closed with a removable cover. When disassembling the iron, you must first unscrew the bolts holding the cover, remove the cover itself and release the terminal block from the wires connected to it, and then unscrew the screws securing the case to the sole. When disassembling the iron for troubleshooting, it is possible to perform a preventive tightening of all fasteners (bolted, screw, nut) that are inside the case. It is recommended at the same time to clean the contacts of the thermostat by stretching a small strip of fine-grained sandpaper between them several times.

The body of the iron is not connected to the entire plane of the sole, but is in contact with it only at a few points, which reduces its heating from the sole; therefore, there is a gap between the casing of the case and the soleplate, into which fabric fibers fall during the operation of the iron. If you do not regularly clean this gap, the fibers clog the contacts of the thermostat and it may fail (besides, the fibers burn on the sole, spreading the smell of burning). As a preventive measure to prevent problems of this nature, it is recommended to clean the iron once every 1,5-2 years.

Needs care and the sole of the iron:

- brown plaque, which often appears on the working surface of the iron from woolen and synthetic fabrics, can be removed by wiping it with a damp cloth sprinkled with baking soda. But this should not be done if the sole has a Teflon or nickel-plated coating; there are special pastes for cleaning such irons;

- in no case should you clean the soleplate of the iron with sharp objects or abrasive materials: the resulting scratches will accelerate the appearance of a brown coating. In addition, it is not possible to remove plaque from scratches;

- you can protect the surface of the sole of the iron from contamination by treating it with paraffin: grated paraffin is poured between two pieces of cotton fabric and ironed with a slightly heated iron.

Author: Korshevr N.G.

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