Microelectric drill. Drawing, description

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Microelectric drill. home workshop

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The construction of any model is unthinkable without cutting dozens of holes in its details - and first of all, very small ones, with a diameter of less than 1 mm. Of course, you can buy such drills - they go to retail, but here's the problem - what to clamp them into? A drilling machine (ordinary, not unique), an electric drill, especially a hand drill for microdrills, are not very suitable - with their size and weight, the force with which the drill should be pressed is not felt at all, and a fragile cutting tool often breaks.

I was able to successfully solve this problem by making a micro electric drill with a three-jaw chuck.

First of all, a few words about the electric motor. I used a 6V permanent magnet commutator motor. The diameter of its output shaft is 3 mm, the weight is about 100 g. However, other low-power electric motors can also be used - for example, from electric shavers, or even from children's electrified toys. Therefore, on the general view of the microdrill, the landing size is indicated by the letter A, corresponding to the diameter of the output shaft of the electric motor.

The cartridge consists of the following parts: a bushing, three cams located in this bushing, a rubber ring and a clamping nut. The bushing and clamping nut are knurled on the outside, and the bushing is machined from brass or bronze, and the clamping nut is made of steel. The choice of dissimilar materials can significantly reduce friction in the threaded connection, which is important for small diameters of these parts.

Chuck for micro electric drill: 1 - sleeve (brass or bronze), 2 - cams, 3 - rubber ring, 4 - clamping nut

The smallest and at the same time the most important part is the clamping cam (3 pieces). To make them, of course, you need to use a good lathe.

In order not to knurl on the details of the cartridge, I used terminals with knurling on the outer surface as a workpiece. After processing the workpiece along the outer contour, an axial hole is drilled in it, which will require an expanding mandrel. The workpiece is first drilled about halfway with a drill Ø 1 - 1,2 mm from the side that will face the sleeve. Then it is turned over and drilled through from the opposite side with a drill Ø 0,5 - 0,6 mm.

The most difficult operation in the manufacture of cams is cutting the workpiece into three equal parts. This can be done with a jigsaw, holding a metal file into it, ground down in thickness on a grinding stone. It is advisable to make the file as thin as possible, otherwise it will be taken to the side and the cut will not pass along the axis.

After final processing, the cams must be hardened, therefore, when choosing a material for these parts, one should stop at carbon steel (for example, the "silver" type).

Instead of the springs usually used to open the cams, my micro chuck uses a rubber ring cut from the nipple tube, and the bevel on the cams is propylene, which allows them to slightly diverge when the clamping nut is loosened, so that it is more convenient to insert a drill into the chuck.

The described design turned out to be reliable in operation, convenient in operation. In addition to drills, I also used dental burs for engraving. The only thing that was required in this case was to reduce the diameter of the shank of the cutting body to 1 mm.

Author: I. Serdyukov

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