|
Arabic
Bengali
Chinese
English
French
German
Hebrew
Hindi
Italian
Japanese
Korean
Malay
Polish
Portuguese
Spanish
Turkish
Ukrainian
Vietnamese|
FACTORY TECHNOLOGIES AT HOME - SIMPLE RECIPES
Removing stains from clothes. Simple recipes and tips
Directory / Factory technology at home - simple recipes Many people think that there should be a universal remedy for removing a wide variety of stains. Such a universal remedy is unthinkable, if only because the different nature of the stains determines the different compositions for their destruction. Gasoline is the most popular stain remover that is often used. This partly has its justification, since the most common in everyday life are stains of fatty origin. However, when used in the manner commonly practiced, gasoline is not an ideal stain remover due to the concentric glossy circles that result when gasoline is misused. In most cases, these circles stand out clearly when dust enters the cleaned area. This happens partly because gasoline is not homogeneous (it consists of various fractions, boiling over a wide range), but mainly due to its improper use. When cleaning the fabric from greasy stains, it is necessary to place a soft cloth under the fabric, which easily absorbs liquid, or clean filter paper folded several times. You can also use some suction material like bolus, magnesia, kaolin, diatomaceous earth, etc. At some distance from the stain, a circle is circled with water, which prevents the spread of the fat-dissolving substance through the tissue. Moisten the stain with a soft cloth or sponge with gasoline or another liquid that dissolves grease; when the stain has disappeared from the upper side, a piece of filter paper is placed on this place and carried out with a hot iron. Then the fabric is washed in warm soapy water with the addition of a small amount of ammonia or in a warm decoction of the soap root. Usually, petroleum ether, benzene, gasoline, chloroform, or other fat-dissolving substances are used to remove grease stains. Solvents are often mixed with the absorbents mentioned above to form a paste which is used to remove stains. In this way, good results can be obtained if only the solvent itself is correctly applied. It is recommended to use absorbent materials for cleaning woolen fabrics; bolus, magnesia, etc., it is necessary to put a layer as thick as a finger not only from below, but also from above, and pour gasoline or another solvent until the stain is completely moistened, press the paste firmly and leave to lie until dry, and then remove the powder. This operation is repeated using a new amount of solvent impregnated powder; after drying, the powder is removed by shaking or brushing. The method of removing stains with absorbent pastes or slurries is almost always used where the stains are removed with a solvent and where no mechanical brushing, rubbing, etc. is needed. However, this method is also used when cleaning chemical processes play a role. It is only necessary to ensure that the dry powder (bolus, magnesia, etc.) does not change the chemical nature of the applied solution, otherwise the goal will not be achieved. The use of diatomaceous earth, bolus, kaolin is not objectionable, as for chalk, it must be used with some caution. Carbon tetrachloride is not always suitable, because, due to its high specific gravity, it sinks down in the material intended for cleaning and, as a result, only deepens the stain, i.e. transfers it to the lower layers. However, it can be successfully applied by placing a small bolus or piece of tissue under the stain. For successful cleaning, it is important to know in each individual case whether the stain can be removed with an appropriate solvent, mechanical treatment (rubbing, brushing) or chemical treatments. The stain left by soot is not removed by solvents, as solvents are for soot. Treatment with well-appreciated soap (or panama extract instead of soap), soft brushing, and bolus paste, which adheres to soot and is removed with it when brushing, is applicable here. When cleaning coffee stains, it is necessary to pre-wash the contaminated area of \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbthe fabric with soapy water to remove the substance that strengthens the dye of the stain, and only after that treat the stain with a bleaching agent or solvent that destroys the coloring coffee substance, and in the process of bleaching or dissolving it is necessary to simultaneously machine the stain . If you have to clean off a stain planted with a wheel crew ointment, you need to treat it not only as a greasy stain, but also take into account the finely ground iron of the axles that has fallen on the fabric when in contact with the ointment. After removing the fat, if necessary, the fabric can be treated with soap and a brush; when using gasoline paste, you can get a complete cleaning without post-treatment. Viscous, hardly soluble stains, such as coal, tar, tar, must first be softened with soft fat; this allows them to be removed later with solvents. When cleaning stains, remember that fresh stains are easier to remove than old ones; in addition, it should be noted that sometimes the dressing of the fabric firmly binds the stain on which it is planted. Most stains caused by organic dyes, as well as aniline dyes, inks, fruits, wine and other dyes on white fabrics, wood, marble and the like, are eliminated by chemical destruction of the dye. In this case, the stain is moistened with water, to which a few drops of ammonia are added, after which the stain is immersed in hydrogen peroxide. This process is repeated until the stain is completely removed. After cleaning, thoroughly rinse the material itself. Organic dyes can also be removed in the following way. The stain is immersed first in a 5% solution of potassium permanganate, and then after some time in a 3% solution of oxalic or citric acid or in a solution of 100 g of sodium sulphate and XNUMX g of citric acid in XNUMX g of water. After that, the material is thoroughly washed with water. Instead of this combined method, bleaching liquid (javel water) can be used in many cases. The whitening effect of this drug is enhanced if the spots are lightly moistened with weak vinegar beforehand. If there is no whitening liquid under the rune, then you can use a slurry of bleach and water. After using shale water or bleach, the cleaned material must be thoroughly washed in clean water, to which a little ammonia is added. These bleaching agents are naturally inapplicable to colored materials; they are used when cleaning stains planted on white fabrics, wood, marble, etc. ., and for very delicate fabrics, weaker solutions are used. A good remedy for softening many stains, making them easier to remove, is soapy alcohol, the timely application of which is sometimes sufficient to destroy many stains. In general, the preliminary application of soapy alcohol is very useful in removing all kinds of stains, as it greatly facilitates subsequent processing: stains are removed more easily and quickly. Pre-treatment with soap alcohol, as far as the material permits, is advisable when removing stains from soup, sauces, milk, cocoa, coffee yolk, fats, dirt, putties of various kinds, beer, kerosene, grass, etc. The treatment with soap alcohol is carried out with using a soft brush. Stains that dissolve slowly (such as tar) should not be treated with volatile solvents (such as benzine), as such solvents evaporate before the stain dissolves. In such cases, volatile solvents that boil at higher temperatures, such as turpentine, are used, and the stain is usually pre-treated with turpentine paste, and then with a mixture of equal parts of soap and ammonia. Delicate fabrics, especially colored ones, can be cleaned first with a panama wood extract and then treated with special stain removers such as gasoline, benzene or turpentine. The latter liquids are suitable for most delicate fabrics, since they do not damage either the finishes or the fabric. Turpentine always requires subsequent treatment with gasoline, as it itself can leave stains on the material. When cleaning all kinds of fabrics, it should be a rule to test each solvent on a piece of some fabric or on a closed place of clothing in relation to the effect of this drug on the color and fibers of fabrics. If the stain remover produces a number of side effects, for example, destroys the fabric, it is replaced with another one. The impossibility of creating a universal stain remover and the need for individual processing of it binds the work of practitioners who develop formulations for stain removal. In most cases, stains are usually of fatty origin, and therefore the most common are products that remove fat. In the manufacture of these remedies, it is necessary to give precise, detailed and correct instructions on how to use them. Only if this Condition is met can their successful application be ensured. Along with the preparation of grease stain removers, special preparations are made to remove rust, ink, fruit wine, fruit juices, etc., because other chemical compositions are required to destroy such stains. Removing stains by a purely chemical method is sometimes very difficult because poisonous and caustic substances are required to remove stains. If such substances are used, the places where they have been applied should be washed well with water and then neutralized with appropriate means; this must be done especially if the fabric is in contact with the skin. When using acids, it is necessary to apply subsequent washing with very weak ammonia or a soda solution. After alkalis, the material should be washed with weak acids (vinegar), acidic sodium sulphate, etc.; after exposure to chlorine, a hyposulfite solution is used as an antichlorine to protect tissue fibers from destruction. Sometimes reddish-yellow spots appear on linen when dried in the sun. The cause of these stains is the use of iron-containing water when rinsing the laundry. Iron in the form of nitrous leaves a barely perceptible mark on linen fibers, but in the air, ferrous oxide turns into a darker iron oxide and is deposited on the fabric in quite clear spots. Such iron stains are easily removed by moistening with 10% hydrochloric acid, after which the fabric is washed for approximately XNUMX minutes. After washing, the material is thoroughly rinsed first with rainwater or iron-free tap water, and then with a weak soda solution. A short treatment of linen with weak hydrochloric acid does not have a destructive effect on the fabric. If the original color of the substance is changed when using alkaline stain removers, then it can be restored by wetting the fabric with acetic water or other highly diluted acid. If the discoloration was the result of the use of acidic removers, then it is restored by immersing the cleaned area in diluted ammonia. Subsequent rinsing in both cases is not necessary. Author: Korolev V.A.
▪ Preparation of dammar, copal and mastic varnish
Artificial leather for touch emulation
15.04.2024 Petgugu Global cat litter
15.04.2024 The attractiveness of caring men
14.04.2024
▪ E-paper with optimal color reproduction ▪ Underground garage in the country
▪ section of the site Dosimeters. Selection of articles ▪ article Dust of Ages. Popular expression ▪ article Can a criminal's set of chromosomes justify his crime? Detailed answer ▪ article Make an air barometer. Children's Science Lab
Home page | Library | Articles | Website map | Site Reviews
www.diagram.com.ua |
We recommend interesting articles Section 
See other articles Section 
Latest news of science and technology, new electronics:
All languages of this page