Turning micro-machine modeller. Drawing, description

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Turning micro-machine modeller. home workshop

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This miniature machine would certainly have pleased the fairy-tale hero of Leskov's story. With him, the manufacture of nails for flea horseshoes would go much faster! However, this is a joke, but seriously speaking, the micro lathe created by V. Shpakovsky will be indispensable for copyists in all cases when it is necessary to recreate turned parts.

Often, when working on a model of an intricate antique sailboat or copying an ornate railroad station balustrade from the turn of the century for a miniature railroad, one seriously thinks about how to make the many turned railing balusters, steering wheel parts, or wheel spokes of ancient guns. Look at the drawing of an old ship, a car, even an airplane - how many intricately shaped parts were used to create a prototype. You can, of course, put things on stream and use an installation for casting parts from nylon or polystyrene, but for casting you also need a model - a sample machined on a machine. And most importantly, the wooden parts on the copies look much more reliable - you just need to lightly tint them with a stain and varnish them.

In a word, a modeler needs a lathe. And it's very easy to make it. Look at the drawing. Polystyrene plastic is screwed onto a massive wooden base, and a microelectric motor is glued to it - for example, of the DP-10 type. (An engine in a metal case, say, DI-1-3, can be fixed with an ordinary bracket made of tin or duralumin.)

Modeller's micro lathe
Rice. 1. Turning micro-machine modeler: 1 - base (wood), 2 - switch, 3 - microelectric motor DP-10, 4 - workpiece (match), 5 - tailstock, 6 - polystyrene plate, 7 - support table (duralumin), 8 - nipple cartridge.

Modeller's micro lathe
Rice. 2. Machine variant of double power: 1 - modified engine, 2 - impeller, 3 - ring.

The support table is bent from duralumin or tin and fixed on the side of the base.

The tailstock is wooden, a miniature bearing is glued into it, through which a rod shaft is passed. The workpiece - an ordinary wooden match - is held by a tube put on the shaft.

The "chuck" of the machine is a piece of plastic tube or nipple rubber. First, the match is inserted into the recess (tube) of the tailstock, and then the nipple moves over the workpiece and captures it. It remains to bring power to the engine - and you can get to work.

Instead of incisors, I recommend using diamond files of various profiles, and cutting blanks with a blade is safer than a razor.

In the manufacture of the machine, it is necessary to center it as carefully as possible - try to exclude radial and axial runouts of the spindle.

Care should also be taken to improve the cooling of an engine that is not designed for intensive operation. To do this, holes must be made in the motor housing. It is advisable to replace quickly failing brass brushes with graphite ones and put an impeller on the shaft, which enhances the air flow through the motor cavity.

The motor is powered by a rectifier and a step-down transformer: a set of batteries does not last very long.

And the last. If you need to make a lot of the same type of parts, cut out a simple copier from tin and fix it in place of the support table.

Author: V.Shpakovsky

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