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WONDERS OF NATURE
Kronotsky Reserve. Nature miracle
The reserve occupies a vast territory of the eastern coast of Kamchatka. It owes its appearance not to the beauty of nature, but to the Kamchatka sable. It was already a sable sanctuary among the indigenous population in the middle of the 1934th century (trading was prohibited under pain of death), and it became a reserve in 1. However, the Kronotsky Reserve was abolished several times. And, finally, on January 1967, 964, it was opened for the third time (on an area of XNUMX hectares).
The reorganization of the reserve was accompanied by the redrawing of borders. At this time, lumberjacks invaded the protected area, oilmen conducted exploration work. The Bogachev geological expedition also contributed to the extermination of forests, animals, birds and other natural resources. Then came the energy... Typhoon Elsa, which hit Kamchatka on October 4, 1981, also had an impact on the process of the destruction of the reserve. The rains generated by the typhoon did not stop for three days. Under the strongest pressure of the water, huge boulders left their places, breaking and destroying everything in their path. Then the Bolshaya Pechka geyser, the most dangerous of the geysers in the valley, ceased to exist (it gushed in a horizontal direction at a height of human height). The source of the Malachite Grotto was seriously damaged. In 1982, a three-mile water area was assigned to the reserve, thus its area increased to 1099 thousand hectares. It is curious that when the Kronotsky Nature Reserve was formed in Kamchatka, the Valley of Geysers (there are only four of them on the planet), which no one knew about then, turned out to be inside the protected area. One can only guess about the age of the Valley of Geysers. The ancient inhabitants of Kamchatka, who lived less than 30 km from this valley, were afraid to climb deep into the mountains. The first explorers of Kamchatka, members of the Bering expedition, did not hear anything about the Valley of Geysers either. In 1854, the traveler Karl Ditmar passed with his detachment only 14 km from the valley, in 1909 Vladimir Komarov's camp was very close to it. The well-known researcher of the thermal mineral springs of Kamchatka V.I. Piip did not reach there in 1933 either. Only in April 1941, the secret of the Valley of Geysers was revealed. In the early 1940s, an inventory of land was made in the reserve, and a young researcher Tatyana Ustinova was asked to find out why the Shumnaya River never freezes and where it originates from. Ustinova set off on a dog sled together with an observer of the reserve, the Itelmen guide Anisifor Krupenin. Having risen from the mouth of Shumnaya, the researchers found that Shumnaya is formed by the confluence of two rivers. Examining the channel of Shumnaya, they entered a narrow passage between the rocks. We went first on skis, then on foot (more than seven hours on the way!), but the source was still not visible. They had already decided to return to the camp and briefly sat down on the snowy slope - to eat before the return trip. T. Ustinova recalls: “Opposite us, on the left bank near the water, on a platform devoid of snow, several streams of steam were knocked out. Suddenly one of them began to increase rapidly, clouds of steam fell, and oblique jets of boiling water burst out with a roar, reaching the foot of our right slope of the river. accompanied by rising high clouds of steam.We were frightened, not understanding what was happening.There was a feeling that some kind of cataclysm was beginning: after all, we were surrounded by active volcanoes ... The eruption lasted about three minutes, then stopped. "It died down, disappeared, as if it had never happened. We sat, completely stunned. Then it dawned on me - after all, this is a geyser! Geysers in Asia, in particular in Kamchatka, were not known, and it was difficult to immediately figure out what was what ... " This The geyser first seen in the Kronotsky Reserve was called the Firstborn. In the summer of the same year, Ustinova and Krupenin managed to get to the middle course of this tributary, later called the Geyser River, and discovered over 20 large geysers in the valley (Velikan, Zhemchuzhny, Sugar, Triple, Cone, Fountain, Small, Large, etc.). The largest geyser Velikan (its fountain rises to a height of 30 m) erupts every 6–8 hours. Geyser Pervenets - every 45 minutes, Sakharny geyser - every 2-3 minutes. Almost all geysers and hot springs of the valley are grouped on an area of 3–4 sq. km. km, so the intensity of heat release here is one of the largest in Kamchatka. But the famous valley attracts travelers not only with geysers, but also with an unusually beautiful mineral, which is formed mainly around geysers, resembling either coral, or cacti or sea mollusks. This is geyserite. The geyserite owes its unusual color and shape to the algae and bacteria living on it, which are unable to exist outside their usual habitat (however, tourists, unaware of this, took pieces of geyserite with them from the valley as a keepsake). Therefore, now the most beautiful in the "small rose" geyserite, which occupied an area of 900 square meters. m, no longer exists - dismantled for souvenirs. Bright and varied colors are also characteristic of the thermal springs of the valley (white algae and bacteria feel comfortable in hot water; dark, blue-green algae in warm water). They say that tea can be brewed in the water of some geysers (only you need to know for sure which geysers, since water from other sources may contain arsenic and antimony). Inexperienced travelers are attracted to meadows covered with grass in the valley. But experts do not advise anyone to step on them: burning slurry is hidden under the cover, and the leg is sucked in, like in a swamp. Only sagebrush can be trusted in the valley. It is difficult to get into the canyon of the valley: one has to overcome a four-hundred-meter, sometimes almost sheer slope, devoid of grass cover for many hundreds of meters, sometimes with light forest and tall grass. The worst thing is to go in the rain: volcanic soils turn into a viscous slurry. Everyone passing along the path, trying to keep his balance, grabs the shoots of the mantle. Its brittle stems die immediately, so the trail widens behind each walker by the width of its sole. Downpours complete the washout of the soil. Stone birch forests can no longer recover due to lack of soil. And how many trees were cut down, berry bushes were trampled down, there were traces of bonfires and campsites! In 1975, the valley was closed for landscaping, which lasted almost twenty years. After the closure of the valley, the flow of tourists decreased tenfold. But it was still not completely possible to isolate the protected area from "wild" tourists. According to the author of the book "National Park" N. Zabelina, it would be better to equip the slopes - wooden steps, decks, rope railings. Author of the book "Chur, commanded!" O. Volkov proposes to build viewing platforms, fences around especially valuable and fragile objects and dangerous places, bridges, to strengthen the soil on steep slopes, to organize parking lots. The Kronotsky Nature Reserve attracts attention not only because of the unique Valley of Geysers, the very nature of Kamchatka is amazing in its beauty and diversity. Listen to the opinion of V. Chernikin: "Will you happen to walk along the ocean, admiring the waterfalls that break off the gloomy basalt rocks of the Kronotsky Peninsula, and looking at piles of seaweed or whale bones; or will you happen to walk along a narrow path between two walls of the giant Kamchatka tall grass, - you remember Kamchatka forever." According to A. Naumenko, E. Lobkov, A. Nikanorov, the authors of the book about the Kronotsky Reserve, all the main elements of the geomorphological structure of the peninsula are present there: ridges formed by a chain of volcanoes, volcanic plains, intermountain depressions, hilly-ridged formations, as well as coastal lowlands . In the reserve, such areas as the ocean coast, the volcanic region and the slopes of the Valaginsky ridge stand out. There are 25 volcanoes on the territory of the reserve, including 12 active ones. The highest of the volcanic peaks is Kronotskaya Sopka (3528 m). Lake Kronotskoye is surrounded by a semicircle of 16 volcanoes. There are about 800 reservoirs in the reserve. The largest rivers are: Shumnaya, Kronotskaya, Bogachevka (the longest, its length is 72 km), Tyu-shovka. There are relatively few lakes (the largest is Kronotsky with an area of 212 sq. km, a depth of up to 148 m). There are thermal springs, rivers and lakes. There are unique objects of nature here: in addition to the already mentioned Valley of Geysers, the volcanic bowl of the Uzon volcano, a grove of Kamchatka fir, a taiga massif of Kamchatka larch, numerous snowfields and powerful glaciers on volcanoes. There is also the Valley of Death (at the source of the Geysernaya River). Steam-gas mixtures are emitted here, dangerous even for the Kamchatka bear. Although the Kronotsky Reserve is located approximately at the latitude of Tula, its climate differs markedly from the climate of central Russia. In winter, a lot of snow falls, often bringing even houses with roofs. But the temperature on the coast is rarely below minus 20 °. However, the summer is cool, humid, and already in early September there are first frosts. A significant part of the protected area is occupied by mountains, therefore, mountain tundra plants are widespread (in general, tundra vegetation is very richly represented in the reserve). But most of all there are thickets of alder and cedar elfin. A third of the area covered with forests is occupied by stone-birch forests with an undergrowth of Kamchatka mountain ash and elfin forests (on the coastal cliffs, birch forests take on ugly, twisted dwarf forms). Larch, white birch, alder, poplar forests, shrub willows grow in small areas. Many different berries, shiksha dominates. Grasses, especially in river valleys, are thick, tall (up to 2–3 m), and sometimes almost impenetrable. There are almost no coniferous forests, except for a small grove of relic fir. In the Kronotsky Reserve, there are 120 species of aquatic invertebrates, about 350 land invertebrates, 26 fish, more than 200 birds, over 40 mammals. There are no reptiles, and only one species of amphibians lives - the Siberian salamander. Although the fauna of the reserve is not very diverse, it has its own peculiarity. Several species of mammals and birds are listed in the Red Book. One of the valuable inhabitants of the reserve is the Kamchatka sable, which differs in size, with lighter and tougher fur than that of the East Siberian subspecies. It feeds mainly on small rodents, in winter it switches to vegetarian food - mainly on rowan berries. Ermine is widely distributed in river valleys. Wolverine is found on the territory of the reserve from the ocean coast to the highlands. The otter, white hare, Kamchatka moth fox live here (especially near the ocean coast and lower reaches of rivers). But you rarely see kindness. There are many brown bears in the protected area, despite the fact that their numbers have significantly decreased as a result of poaching and unregulated shooting (in the 1940s, one bear could be found per 1 km of berry tundra, in 1961 there were almost half as many bears) . As a rule, the Kamchatka bear treats a person peacefully (with the exception of wounded animals, "rods" and she-bears with cubs). Of the ungulates, only two, but very numerous species live here - the reindeer and the bighorn sheep. The pika, marmot, ground squirrel are widely distributed in the mountain belt. The squirrel lives in a larch forest near Kronotsky Lake. Of the small rodents, there are various types of mice. Pinnipeds live in the coastal waters of the Kronotsky Reserve: sea lions (live on rocky islands near Cape Kozlov), ringed seals, and spotted seals. Sometimes walruses come here with the polar ice. But there are few birds. There are stone capercaillie, white partridge and tundra. The goose, swan, stoner, killer whale, mallard, pintail, teal, etc. live in the protected area. On the rocks of the Kronotsky Peninsula, puffins, puffins, gulls, and auks arrange bird markets. You can see quite often the Pacific eagle, in the summer - the Kamchatka Rough-legged Rough-legged Rough-legged Rough-legged Rough-legged, in autumn and winter on the ocean coast - the Gyrfalcon. Waders and Curlews fly by in autumn. Author: Yudina N.A.
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