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WONDERS OF NATURE
Lake Seliger. Nature miracle
Of all the hills of Central Russia, the Valdai is the most picturesque. The hills and valleys of this vast region, covered with coniferous forests, countless lakes and crossed by large and small rivers, seem to invite the traveler to go on a journey through its green and blue expanses. Valdai is the main Central Russian watershed. From here the small rivers Yavon and Shchegrinka run to Lake Ilmen, the Western Dvina to the Baltic shores, and the Dnieper to the Black Sea. Here the great Volga begins its journey. But let the Slavic rivers famous in history and literature not be offended by me, yet here, in Valdai, they are still streams. And the main decoration of the Valdai, of course, is not rivers, but lakes. When you fly over these places on an airplane or even pass them by train, the abundance of reservoirs of various shapes and sizes is simply amazing. Dozens of blue windows glow in windbreak thickets, spread among the fields and meadows of the ancient Russian region, stretching halfway between Novgorod and Tver. However, the brightest pearl of Valdai is, undoubtedly, Lake Seliger - the largest of the local reservoirs.
There are many unusual and alluring corners of nature in Russia. Speaking of them, we often utter the words: boundless, immense, majestic, powerful... But with Seliger, the epithets "friendly" and "joyful" are primarily associated. Indeed, this Valdai lake does not impress either with its gigantic size, or with its incredible depth or the miraculous properties of water. There are no bizarre rocks, snowy ridges or mysterious caves here either. But the charm of Seliger, inexplicable in words and perceived, rather, by some kind of sixth sense, is felt by everyone who has fallen into this marvelous, enchanting corner of Russia at any time of the year. Almost every Russian lake is beautiful in its own way. The calm majestic Ladoga has its own face, the windy stormy Onega has its own, the boundless Baikal and the narrow and wild Teletskoye Lake, hidden in the frame of the wooded ridges, have their own beauty. Its appearance at the warm, lotus-scented Lake Khanka and the harsh Lake Taimyr, which sheds its ice shell only for a month ... But Seliger can probably be called a lake with ten, twenty, or maybe a hundred different faces. This is not even a lake, but some kind of "archipelago" of lakes, reaches, straits, channels, bays, internal lakes on the islands and distant fellow lakes connected by rivers with the elder brother Seliger. And so unlike each other are the harsh stormy power of the Kravotynsky reach and the bizarre bends of Berezovsky surrounded by mast forests and ancient mounds, the lively inhabited expanses of the Ostashkovsky reach with whitening bell towers and domes of the Nilova desert and Ostashkov and, for example, the narrow winding strip of Selizharovsky, where in the thickets reed shelters the source of the fast rocky Selizharovka - the ancient path to the Volga. Its own face at the sunny, friendly Polnovsky reach and at the wooded capes of Troitsky, indented with notches. In the same way, the long gloomy river-strait Polonovka, along the steep banks of which there are still old bunkers - traces of the past war, and the open, smelling of a flowering meadow, sunny Knyazha ... And about the younger brothers-lakes hidden in the surrounding forests Seliger and there is nothing to say: here each lake has its own, unlike the others, appearance. Silent, a little gloomy Sig, surrounded by centuries-old pines, white beaches and a ridge of mossy boulder rocks, a chain of narrow and mysterious lakes, the Holy, Long and Black lakes or cozy, tiny Sobensky lakes - "everyone has his own holes", as it has long been said in Russia, and in this endless variety lies the unique charm of Seliger. The lake occupies the southeast of the Valdai Upland. From north to south, it stretches for ninety kilometers, and reaches a width of almost forty. On Seliger there are about two hundred large and very tiny islands and islets, and on its shores an ancient glacier left placers of gray boulders, as if guarding the peace of the lake. You rarely see a body of water in Russia with such whimsical outlines. Reaches, bays, branches and bays deeply protruding into the mainland constitute the most remarkable feature of Seliger and give it a particularly picturesque appearance. The average depth of the lake is six meters, but there are places where the anchor does not reach the bottom even at twenty meters. Separate large reaches (there are only twelve of them) are interconnected by channels, referred to here as rivers and bearing their own names: Polonovka, Knyazha and others. On large stretches, like Kravotynsky or Ostashkovsky, there is where to roam the winds, and sometimes serious six-point storms break out here, forcing fishermen in their boats to hastily take refuge in the reeds. But such cataclysms usually play out in autumn, and strong winds are rare in summer. Since the beginning of May, the lake has been ice-free, and a wide variety of vessels: motor boats and motor ships, kayaks and yachts, rowing boats and sailboards plow its waters in abundance. And Seliger freezes only at the end of November, so the tourist and especially the fishing season lasts seven months on the lake. Fishermen have a special love for Seliger. After all, more than a dozen species of fish are found in the lake: from bream and burbot to now rare eels. The rivers flowing into Seliger connect it, as already mentioned, with almost twenty smaller, but no less picturesque lakes. Already their names speak for themselves and attract tourists: Holy, Black, Borovoye, Svetloye, Whitefish, Plotichye, Pike, Stone, Berezovskoye, Tikhmen, Polonets... No less beautiful and diverse are the numerous islands of Seliger. Some of them attract with wooded shores, others with sandy beaches, and others with berry fields undisturbed by anyone before you or inland lakes rich in fish. On the largest island of Khachin, there are as many as eleven such internal mini-reservoirs, and biting on them is guaranteed, even if it is stormy on Seliger itself and the fish go to the depths. Another island, Stolbny, is adorned by an ancient monastic cloister, the Nilova Pustyn. And a small island opposite the ancient churchyard Nikolo-Rozhok, for its bizarre shape, received the name Boomerang, which is unusual for Russia. The history of these places is rich and interesting. The Seliger Territory is the original Novgorod estate. The lake has been mentioned in chronicles since the XNUMXth century. In the Middle Ages, an important trade route from Novgorod to the Volga passed along it. The fast and deep Selizharovka River, after eighty kilometers, pours its transparent streams into the still narrow Volga, immediately doubling its water content and making it navigable for small Novgorod plows, slightly larger than the current tourist boats, which also mastered this waterway. In the north and west of Seliger, Polnovsky and Berezovsky reaches are located not far from the upper reaches of the rivers connected with the Ilmen Lake basin, so that a short portage allowed Novgorod merchants to get from the banks of their native Ilmen to Tver, Nizhny Novgorod, and even to the Caspian trading cities. It is clear that Seliger has long been a busy ship road. Until now, the ancient churchyard Trinity-Perevoloka has been preserved here, the name of which reminds us of those distant times. There are many interesting places in the vicinity of Seliger. From the ancient town of Selizharovo, founded back in 1504, located at the confluence of the Volga and Selizharovka, you can climb up the intricately curving Volga bends for a dozen or two kilometers and find yourself at the lower end of a long chain of Upper Volga lakes. This lake garland stretches for more than a hundred kilometers and includes lakes Big and Small Volgo, Peno, Vselug and Sterzh. Each of them is attractive in its own way. The largest - the Volga - stretching in two stretches for almost forty kilometers, is famous for its luxurious sandy beaches, stretching at the foot of thirty-meter cliffs, crowned with century-old pines. Here expanse for lovers of sailing, and fishing on the Volga is excellent. And in the surrounding forests - the most berry and mushroom places of the Upper Volga. The next lake - Peno - is the smallest in this lake chain. From the south, a calm full-flowing river Zhukopa flows into it, along which you can get to the "most reserved" of the reserves of European Russia - the Central Forest. It is located in the very wilderness of the Valdai forests and swamps, where there are almost no roads, and the paths here are damp and windbreak. The entire diversity of the fauna of the Central Russian forests is represented in the taiga wilderness of this protected area, and due to the inaccessibility of the area, animals are not threatened by poachers here, and their natural environment is not threatened by industrial and agricultural impacts. On the banks of the Zhukopa, you can stumble upon a bear hunting in raspberries, or frighten off a herd of wild boars. There are lynxes and martens, foxes and wolves, beavers and muskrats... By the way, not far from Peno, ten kilometers to the southwest, is the source of the Western Dvina, which paved its rapids from here through three countries to the Gulf of Riga of the Baltic. The lake next upstream of the Volga - Vselug - has been glorified for three hundred years already by a man-made fairy tale - a wooden church in Shirkovo, which soared above its waters. For its unusual appearance and dimensions, unique for a wooden temple, Shirkov's wooden masterpiece has long been called the "Upper Volga Kizhi". And behind the last of the large lakes - Sterzhem - the Volga already looks like a tiny stream three or four meters wide. From the village of Kokovkino, which is at the northern end of Sterzh, it is only twelve kilometers to the village of Volgoverkhovye, next to which there is a modest wooden chapel on a small swamp, connected by footbridges to the dry shore. In the middle of the chapel, a square is carved into the floor, and in it one can see a cold spring beating under water. Here begins the Volga... The capital of the "country of Seligeria" and the only large settlement on the shores of the lake is the ancient city of Ostashkov. It still retains the features of the old trading town of the Russian hinterland. However, not only trade: the local tanners were famous in Russia and the Seliger fish was delivered from here to Moscow itself, to the royal table. The ancient part of Ostashkov is located on the lake cape, and all the cross streets of the old city go to the water. From the high bell standing at the end of the cape, a stunning view of the lake and the hilly forest shores opens up. From here, all trips along Seliger usually begin: on a boat, on a yacht, on a motorboat or kayak, on foot or by bike. Each type of tourism has its own advantages, and the traveler is free to choose the one that suits him best. But no matter how a person wanders through the Seliger expanses, a bright, joyful feeling will surely remain in his soul from getting to know this ancient, beautiful and kind land, spread in the very heart of the Russian land. Author: B.Wagner
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