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WONDERS OF NATURE
Karadag. Nature miracle
In the mountains of the Eastern Crimea, between Feodosia and Sudak, the rocky peaks of the Karadag volcanic massif rise above the azure waters of the Black Sea, looking like the ruins of a mighty fortress.
The massif got its name for the black color of the basalt lavas that formed its spurs (Karadag in Turkic - "Black Mountain"). In the ridge of the Crimean mountains, composed of sedimentary rocks (limestones and dolomites), Karadag stands apart. After all, it is part of an ancient volcanic structure of the Jurassic period, which was broken in half by a huge crack-dump, and the southern half sank to the bottom of the Black Sea. Now, from the sea, you can see the volcano in a section with all the details of the volcanic apparatus: a vent filled with solidified lava, countless layers of lavas and tuffs, mineral veins and volcanic bombs. If desired, it is easy to find lava flows and deposits of volcanic ash here. But a traveler inexperienced in geology, first of all, is struck by a fantastic heap of stone steeps, battlements, columns, vertical walls and gorges. According to the general opinion, Karadag is the most beautiful place not only in the Crimea, but also on the entire Black Sea coast. The beauty of Karadag is absolutely unlike the cozy, sleek and cultivated picturesqueness of the southern coast of Crimea. Here everything is wild, chaotic, harsh, hard to reach. In the mass of rocks you will not find a single calm horizontal line: black cliffs hang over turquoise bays, which can only be penetrated from the sea. The walls of deep gorges that look like giant cracks rise in gigantic steps to the blue sky. Fanciful figures are sculpted by weathering in thick layers of tuffs. Among them are "Shaitan" and "Lighthouse", "Gingerbread Horse" and "Falcon", "King" and "Queen". The entire volcanic massif stretches between the Koktebel and Otuz valleys and consists of the Holy Mountain and the Coast Range. The Holy Mountain occupies the central part of the massif, rising almost six hundred meters above sea level. From afar, from the southwest and from the north, it looms as an elevated dome with two peaks raised above it. As you approach them, the soft outlines blur, and then the mountain more and more reveals the features of a ridge consisting of volcanic rock - the route. The slopes of the mountain are covered with low-growing oak-ash forest. The coast ridge unites several massifs: Lobovoy, Karagach, Khoba-Tepe, Magnitny and Kok-Kaya, which stretch along the coast, replacing each other. The mountain ranges here are separated by deep ravines, gullies and gorges. The most remarkable of them is the Gaur-Bakh tract. The greatness of this stone chaos and its primordial wildness is emphasized by the steepness of the rocky slopes and the bizarre volcanic block located at the edge of the Magnetic Range, called the "Sphinx", or "Devil's Finger". Among the mountains of the Karadag group, Karagach has a particularly original appearance, composed of black tuffs and rising to a height of three hundred meters above the sea. Its crest is crowned with pointed peaks _- "Teeth of Karagach", as well as peaks "Queen", "King", "Throne" and "Warrior". From the ridge you can clearly see a huge arch protruding from the sea at some distance from the coast - the "Gate of Karadag" or, as they are also called, the "Golden Gate". From here you can also see the picturesque rocks on the ridge: "Ivan the Robber", "Lion", "Falcon", "Pyramid" and "Gingerbread Horse", as well as the cliffs of the Hoba-Tepe mountain range.
It is not difficult to climb Karadag from the village of Planerskoye (Koktebel). At the same time, the Holy Mountain will remain on the right, and the path winding among stunted oaks and dogwood thickets quickly takes the traveler to the slope of the Magnetic Range. (This somewhat strange name is explained by the fact that a strong magnetic anomaly was indeed discovered here.) Above the ridge, gradually growing, approaching with every step, an elongated volcanic block similar to a tower - the already mentioned "Devil's Finger" (aka "Sphinx"). This strange formation is actually a cork of solidified lava, stuck in the mouth of a volcano, and exposed when the rains washed away the loose rocks surrounding it. From the "Sphinx" you can go to the Gaur-Bakh gorge, about which so much has been written and told by everyone who has visited Karadag. There is no place in the entire Crimea that is more stunning in its picturesqueness and wildness. And then, returning to the Sphinx, you can go around the dome of the Greater Karadag along the old path, the slopes of which are dotted with pieces of white lava - liparite. From the Southern Pass between this massif and the Coastal Range, the trail leads to the best observation point of the coastal mountains - the four-hundred-meter Mount Lodge. From the recess with a stone back, really resembling a theater box, there is an incomparable view of the southern coast of Crimea. On clear days, when the surrounding air is clean and transparent in the west, the characteristic profile of the Bear Mountain - Ayudaga, and even the openwork teeth of Mount Ai-Petri, which are more than a hundred kilometers in a straight line, are clearly visible. And if you look to the east, then Mount Opuk is visible in the distance, standing at the entrance to the Kerch Bay. In the northeast, the shores and waters of the Sea of \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbAzov are clearly marked with a narrow strip of the Arabat Spit, while in the south the boundless blue expanse of the Black Sea spreads, merging at the horizon with almost the same blue sky. Here you can sit for hours and enjoy the spaciousness, clean mountain air and the stone sculptures of Karadag illuminated by the bright southern sun. But sooner or later, unfortunately, you have to get up from the stone bench to continue your journey through the volcanic massif. A steep path leads from here to the Gingerbread Horse rock, and the Karagach ridge is already very close from it. To the left, against the background of the sea blue, the pointed profile of the rock "Ivan the Robber" looms. In it is the former crater of the volcano, towering over the secluded Robber Bay, hidden from the eyes. From here, the trail goes along the Khoba-Tepe ridge, now and then bending around the stone remnants created by the joint work of water and wind, which destroyed heterogeneous volcanic rocks. These natural sculptures, sometimes towering ten meters, have strange bizarre outlines, and anyone can easily guess in them the Gingerbread Horse, the Falcon, the Pyramid, and many other stone whims of mother nature. This fantastic realm of rocky peaks, walls, towers, sculptures and obelisks, unlike each other, also conceals deep caves in its bowels, for which, by the way, the ridge got its name (Khoba-Tepe means "mountain with caves" ). From the ridge you can clearly see the "Gate of Karadag" striking with its unusual shape and size. A fishing boat with a raised sail freely passes through their huge arch. To the left of the "Gate" you can see the corner of the "Lion" rock, like a guard guarding the Lion's Bay invisible from above. A sharp rocky peak "Mayak" rises above the bay. Then you can go down to the foot of the mountain "Monomakh's Hat" and, looking back, see the "King" on the crest next to the "Throne", and a little lower - his stone "Retinue". Completing the route, the traveler can go along the Tumannaya Balka to the Karadag valley. The road will bring it ashore to a small bay, where there is a scientific biostation with a small dolphinarium and a museum, which presents the entire underwater world of Karadag. And the way back, if you like thrills, can run along the foot of the eight-kilometer rocky arc of the Karadag massif. True, in many places the rocks that have come up to the water will force the traveler to walk straight on the water, using the so-called wave-cutting niche, carved by the waves in the bases of the cliffs. But on the other hand, he will be able to see bays and capes invisible from above, touch with his hand unusual pillow and spherical lavas, the strange shape of which is associated with the fact that they erupted under water, at the bottom of the sea, and, finally, collect a good collection of sea pebbles, striking in their diversity even geologists. Particularly good here are dark honey translucent carnelian pebbles - the best souvenir in memory of Karadag. The picturesque and secluded Carnelian Bay in Karadag is named after this rare mineral. From Planersky it is easy to get to the nearby Feodosia to climb the walls of the ancient Genoese fortress, admire the paintings of Aivazovsky in the art gallery and breathe in the aroma of maritime romance in the local, very colorful museum of Alexander Grin. Then you can go east, to the Scythian mounds and catacombs of Kerch, or sail west, to Sudak, Gurzuf or Yalta, or, finally, make a dash through the steppe Crimea to the antiquities of Bakhchisaray and the mountain beauties of the Grand Canyon. New Crimean images and impressions will temporarily push memories of Karadag to a distant corner of memory. But then, returning to his native land, the traveler will certainly get out of his backpack carnelian pebbles, shimmering with some deep reflection of ancient underground fires, and feel the smell of the sea emerging from the subconscious, the sound of the breaking wave and the rustle of the wind rushing among the bizarre volcanic sculptures of the amazing kingdom of the stone fairy tale - the Crimean Karadag. Author: B.Wagner
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