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Ladoga lake. Nature miracle

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The surface of the lake stretching towards the horizon... Mossy boulders on the edge of a pine forest that has risen to the very water. A scattering of rocky islands overgrown with forest, and an ancient monastery in the depths of a winding bay. A mighty elk that has entered the water up to its knees to get drunk and proudly threw back its head towards the rising sun in the mist... All this is Ladoga.

Ladoga lake
Ladoga lake

A huge lake, the largest in Europe, spreads over an area the size of half of Switzerland at the very edge of the Baltic Shield - the granite crown of the Russian Plain. From south to north it stretches for two hundred and twenty kilometers, and reaches eighty in width. Almost a thousand cubic kilometers of water is stored in its lake bowl - three times more than in the neighboring Onega Lake. After all, the depth of Ladoga in some places exceeds two hundred meters!

It is rare to find a lake whose shores are so varied. The north-western coast is rocky, indented with deep narrow bays, somewhat reminiscent of the Norwegian fjords in miniature. Granite and gneiss masses of cliffs overgrown with forests rise tens of meters above the water. Bays (or, in the local language, "lips") and exits from them to the lake expanse are dotted with hundreds of small but high rocky islands - skerries. There are more than six hundred of them on the lake, but there are only five or seven relatively large ones: Riekkalansari, Mantsinsari, Lunkulansari, Kilpola, Valaam, Konevets.

Numerous islands of skerries are always elevated, rocky and covered with pine forests. When you swim on the lake, they appear on the horizon like ruffled hedgehogs. Almost all the islands are close to the northern shore, only the Valaam archipelago is located closer to the middle of the lake.

The largest island of this archipelago is famous for its ancient monastery founded by Novgorodians in the XNUMXth century. The rocky shores of Valaam (its dimensions are six by ten kilometers) steeply, almost vertically, descend into the water and go one and a half hundred meters deep. From the northern side, the Monastyrskaya bay cuts into Valaam, into which a long, narrow and deep passage between the rocks leads. This is where the holy place is located. Around the main island are scattered about fifty small, but no less picturesque islands.

The unique beauty of the archipelago: bronze mast pines on granite domes of rocks and ancient monuments attract many tourists here, and in recent years, after the return of the monastery of the Russian Orthodox Church, a stream of pilgrims has also reached Valaam, as in the old days.

And in the southern part of the lake there is an unusual small island of Suho - the only island of artificial origin here. In its place was a previously dangerous shallow, which annoyed the captains of the Ladoga ships a lot. In the XNUMXth century, on the orders of Peter I, boulders of stone were poured onto the shallows, constructing a man-made island, and a lighthouse was erected on this embankment, which serves navigators to this day.

The northeastern coast of Ladoga is completely different. Here it is lower, the rocks are interspersed with sandy areas, and from the city of Olonets to the confluence of the Svir River, a fifty-meter-wide beach stretches with dunes overgrown with pine forests.

The southwestern and southern shores of the lake are also low, but covered with pebbles and boulders. Here in some places there are thickets of reeds and reeds, since this part of Ladoga is the smallest.

In ancient times, since the XNUMXth century. Lake Ladoga was part of an important trade route - the Way from the Varangians to the Greeks. Even then, at the confluence of the Volkhov River, a settlement called Ladoga arose. In the XII century, a stone fortress was built here, which has survived to this day. Interestingly, until the XNUMXth century, the lake itself was never called Ladoga, but was called Nevo. Only later did the Ladoga Fortress give its name to the lake.

In winter, a huge bowl of water does not freeze immediately. The shores formed along the edges of the lake gradually tighten its surface, but even in mid-January, Ladoga is only half covered with ice. It finally freezes only in the tenth of February. In the process of freeze-up, the winds break open the ice more than once, turning its flat surface into a heap of debris and boulders. The height of the formed hummocks reaches five or six meters, and at the Sukho lighthouse - even twenty-five meters! The chaos of the heaping blocks of ice makes an eerie impression.

At the end of March, the ice begins to melt, but the lake is completely opened only at the beginning of May. And then for another month, winds and currents drive ice floes across the lake. Part of the ice is carried by the Neva River to the Gulf of Finland. At this time (usually at the beginning of May) the second ice drift begins in St. Petersburg. (Own, Neva, passes here in April.) At this time, the inhabitants of the city pour out in droves onto the embankments and watch with interest the movement of the flow of ice floes that fills the Neva from coast to coast.

And on Ladoga in May days shipping begins. From the source of the Neva, where the gloomy walls of the fortress-prison of Shlisselburg rise, along the lake to the mouth of the Svir and along it to Lake Onega runs a busy shipping route. Tugs, barges and tourist boats go from St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk and Kizhi, to the White Sea, to the Solovetsky Islands, and to the Volga - along the Volga-Balt canal, past the ancient Belozersk to the Rybinsk reservoir.

But the northern, most picturesque part of the lake remains away from shipping routes. In this Ladoga compares favorably with the always lively Lake Onega. Only once a week a motor ship passes here to Valaam, and then again only rare yachts ply the desert waters of northern Ladoga. The silence is broken only by the splashing of the waves and the noise of the pines, and the cries of seagulls on the rocky islets.

And there is probably no more beautiful and secluded place in European Russia than bays and skerries, scattered from Sortavala and Pitkyaranta to the Karelian Isthmus, where near the ancient fortress city of Priozersk, jets of stormy rapids of Vuoksa flow into Ladoga. Unless the southwestern White Sea coast with its granite islands and coastal capes can compete with Ladoga in the picturesqueness of its landscapes. But the water in the White Sea is much colder, summer storms are more frequent and fierce, and high tides add to the hassle.

The level of Lake Ladoga is quite stable. From spring to mid-June, it rises by about a meter, and then slowly drops to its previous level. The course of the lake-sea is directed along the coast counterclockwise, and in summer its speed sometimes increases to two kilometers per hour.

As on many large lakes: Victoria, Upper - on Ladoga, there are peculiar standing waves - seiches. These are rapid fluctuations in the water level (in one place it rises, and in another it falls), associated with a change in atmospheric pressure over different parts of the lake. At the same time, the water rises and falls by 20-30 centimeters.

Lake Ladoga has its own secret. This is a mysterious rumble that periodically arises in its depths - rolling, like a distant otevuk of a thunderstorm. Scientists call such peals brontides. The reason for them is not yet known. Perhaps it is associated with the peculiarities of underwater currents and the complex topography of the lake bottom.

For a tourist, Lake Ladoga is the closest of the pearls of the Russian North. Through it lies the path further, to lake Karelia and to the Solovetsky Islands, to the harsh Khibiny mountains and waterfall rivers of the Zaonezhsky region. But it’s worth staying on Ladoga for at least a week or two, as the traveler understands: they don’t look for good from good. Lake Ladoga will give you all the joys and beauties, in search of which you have gathered far away: picturesque landscapes, rich fishing, secluded islands and rapids, the temples of Valaam and the fortress bastions of Staraya Ladoga, Priozersk and Petrokrepost, the hubbub of migratory bird flocks in the reed beds on the mouth of the Svir and the warm sand of the coastal Olonets dunes.

Author: B.Wagner

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