WONDERS OF NATURE
Yenisei river. Nature miracle This is how Anton Pavlovich Chekhov wrote about the great Siberian river, when he saw the Yenisei, stopping in Krasnoyarsk in 1890 on his way to Sakhalin Island. Perhaps there is no river on Earth, the banks of which are so diverse! Here are the snow-covered ridges of the Sayans, and the steppes of the Minusinsk Basin, and the endless Turukhansk swamps, and the wooded hills of the Yenisei Ridge, the bizarre rocks of the Krasnoyarsk Pillars and the black basalt cliffs of the polar Putorana plateau, the Taimyr tundra and the pine forests of the Angara region ... And how beautiful and unlike each other on the other tributaries of the Yenisei! Each of them is remembered for something special, inherent only to him: the calm, unhurried Lower Tunguska and the furious Big Pit, the taiga beauty Mana and the gloomy swampy Kae, the mighty Angara and the fast rapid Khamsara - each river has its own appearance and its own burrows.
The Yenisei is the most abundant river in Russia. It takes out six hundred cubic kilometers of water a year into the Kara Sea. This is three times more than the flow of the Volga, and more than all the rivers of European Russia carry out to the sea. Once a whale swam into the Yenisei. He climbed up the river, blowing out fountains from time to time. So the sea giant sailed four hundred kilometers from the Kara Sea and probably would have risen even higher, but the poor fellow was unlucky: having dived unsuccessfully, he ripped his belly on sharp stones. So it is no coincidence that the Yenisei is called the brother of the ocean - it is so long and powerful, swift and stormy. In the lower reaches of this great Siberian river, the banks are visible from the ship only through binoculars, and even then with difficulty. Flowing almost strictly along the meridian from south to north, the Yenisei divides the Russian territory approximately in half. At the same time, its basin consists of three completely different parts. In the upper reaches, the river is surrounded by mountains on all sides, and in the middle and lower reaches, its channel serves as the border between lowland Western Siberia and the Central Siberian Plateau. The source of the Yenisei is considered to be Lake Kara-Balyk in the Sayan Mountains. From here, under the name of the Great Yenisei, or Biy-Khem (in Tuvan - "Big River"), he rushes through the rapids and rifts to the Tuva basin. Here, in the intermountain depression, near the city of Kyzyl, Biy-Khem merges with Ka-Khem (Small Yenisei) and forms the Yenisei itself. In Tuvan it is called Ulug-Khem - the Great River. Such a respectful attitude to the mighty stream is characteristic of all peoples living on its banks. Evenki, for example, called him Ioannessi ("Big Water"). For the Russian Cossacks who came from behind the Urals, this name changed slightly and began to sound like the Yenisei. In this form, it was fixed in the Russian language and on the maps. Kyzyl, by the way, is located exactly in the middle of the Asian part of the Eurasian continent. There is an obelisk with the inscription: "Center of Asia". In the Tuva Basin, breaking out of the mountains for a short time, the Yenisei temporarily calms down and breaks into many branches. This place of the river is called therefore "Forty Yeniseev". At the exit from the basin, a powerful river half a kilometer wide is forced to break through the Sayans again. No wonder the Tuvans called this depression Khan-ho-Khan ("Big bag with a small hole"). The high rocky ridge of the Western Sayan leaves only one narrow gap to the Yenisei. Previously, all of it was a chain of rapids, on which the river sometimes narrowed to seventy meters. Especially formidable was the Great Rapid, located at the very end of the gorge. Now, at the exit from the mountains, a two-hundred-meter dam of the Sayan hydroelectric power station has been built, and the entire turbulent section of the upper Yenisei has become a reservoir. Below the dam, the river enters the Minusinsk Basin, where it is surrounded on both banks by free Abakan steppes. The channel of the Yenisei again branches, islands appear, and the tributaries flowing from the left and right all add water to the wide and deep stream. Below the city of Abakan, the wide expanse of the reservoir begins again, this time the Krasnoyarsk hydroelectric power station, after which huge rocks of a bizarre appearance appear on the right bank, now looking out from the green sea of the taiga, now approaching the very coast. These are the famous Krasnoyarsk Pillars - one of the most interesting corners of Siberia. However, this area is so curious and unusual that it deserves a separate trip. And the traveler sailing on the ship says goodbye to the mountains here: after all, Stolby is the last western outpost of the Eastern Sayan. Having passed the mouth of the Kan, the Yenisei rushes to the north, collecting the waters of numerous new tributaries along the way and becoming a truly heroic water artery. Moreover, the main share in its "supply" is made by right tributaries. Of the nearly a hundred rivers that flow into the Yenisei from the east, six are larger than the Oka, and the longest, the Lower Tunguska, is only slightly shorter than the Volga. The most powerful of these tributaries - the Angara flowing from Baikal, flowing into the Yenisei, immediately doubles the amount of water in an already powerful stream, sometimes spreading four kilometers wide. But before meeting with it, the mighty river manages to break through the Kazachinsky threshold bristling with stones with a roar and splash. From the mouth of the Angara to the confluence of the Podkamennaya Tunguska, high wooded cliffs of the Yenisei Ridge stretch along the right bank. In several places, its rocks hamper the river, forming new rapids. The captains considered the Osinovsky threshold, the last barrier on the long way of the Yenisei to the sea, to be especially dangerous. Here is a description made by an eyewitness who passed in tow with a caravan of barges through this threshold at the beginning of the XNUMXth century: Nowadays, the most dangerous rocks in the channel have been blown up, and motor ships pass unhindered through the gorge of the threshold. On the left bank remains behind the most ancient city on the river - Yeniseisk, founded almost four centuries ago. And on the right, from under the gold-bearing hills of the Yenisei Ridge, Big Pete runs down to the Yenisei. It once laid the path to the gold mines. It was not easy to navigate this river, which rose ten meters in high water and was not accidentally nicknamed "mad". And a little lower, from the left bank, the inconspicuous and quiet river Kas flows into the Yenisei. Two hundred years ago, the Ob-Yenisei Canal was built in its upper reaches, connecting it with the Ket River, the right tributary of the Ob. This waterway served Russia a lot, losing its significance only in the XNUMXth century, after the construction of the Trans-Siberian Railway. The Yenisei, having broken through the Osinovsky threshold, finally calms down and slowly runs to the ocean, taking in more and more tributaries. After the confluence of the Podkamennaya and Lower Tunguska, the width of the river is on average five kilometers, and in some places - fifteen! The depth of the Yenisei here reaches fifteen meters, and sea ships rise along it to Igarka, located almost seven hundred kilometers from the sea. Igarka is a forest port, and everything in it is saturated with the smell of freshly sawn pine boards, sawdust and resin. The houses of Igarka are predominantly wooden, and even the sidewalks are made of boards. By the way, it was Igarka that inspired the geologist and poet Gorodnitsky to one of his best songs, remembered by all the lines: "And I'm walking through wooden cities, where pavements creak like floorboards ..." The immensity and boundless expanse of the Yenisei in this area is not just amazing, but somehow does not even fit in the mind. A traveler sailing on a ship, looking from the deck at the shore, barely visible in the distance, thinks admiringly that he has never seen such a wide river in his life. But, having crossed to the opposite side, he discovers with amazement that there is the same distance to the shore. And in the lower reaches, after Dudinka, the banks sometimes disappear altogether. And no wonder: after all, the width of the Yenisei here exceeds twenty kilometers! All the way from Krasnoyarsk to the very mouth of the Yenisei, as already mentioned, serves as a border between Western and Eastern Siberia. The rivermen call the right bank "stone": it is high and mountainous. And the left one is called "Polish": fields and meadows stretch along it, and in spring it is flooded with hollow waters. Swampy forests of fir and spruce grow on the left bank, and there are almost no swamps on the right bank; light green Dahurian larch has firmly settled there - the northernmost tree in the world, enduring frost and not afraid of permafrost in the soil. It is curious that even the birds on the banks of the Yenisei are different. Great snipe and hooded crow are found only on the left, western bank. But the white wagtail and red thrush have chosen the right bank. Below the mouth of the Lower Tunguska, two more tributaries flow into the Yenisei on the right with the cheerful names of Kureika and Khantayka, flowing from narrow and deep, like Scandinavian fjords, lakes of the mysterious Putorana Plateau. Here, beyond the Arctic Circle, the taiga gradually becomes smaller, passing into the forest-tundra, and near Dudinka it finally gives way to the Taimyr tundra covered with blue lichen. From here, from Dudinka, the northernmost railway in the world is laid to Norilsk, to the copper-nickel treasures of Taimyr. Behind Dudinka, everything is already measured by sea measures. When asked how far it is from shore to shore, the captain replies absently: "About twenty miles." Even a traveler who has been here more than once will not be able to determine where a huge stream flows into the waters of the Yenisei Bay - such an endless expanse surrounds the ship, and only after tasting the water from overboard, you understand where you are - in the sea or on the river. The silvery-white backs of beluga whales flicker in the leaden water. Burying their noses into the wave, a flotilla of fishing boats sways. Reindeer graze on the banks, and the surf stubbornly crushes the cliffs, in which the frozen carcasses of mammoths have been found more than once. If the sky frowns, the bay is gloomy. But how wonderful is the play of pure, unclouded colors on a clear sunny day: sparkles of unmelted snow, rusty-red cliffs, blue of the sky, white of clouds and gray-blue tints on the water... But the ocean is still far away. Having passed the last pier on the Yenisei, Ust-Port, the ship sails for almost two more days along the Yenisei Bay - in fact, the ancient channel of the Yenisei, flooded when the ocean level rose. And only on the tiny island of Dikson, five hundred kilometers from Ust-Port, finally, rivermen meet sailors. The Northern Sea Route passes here, powerful nuclear icebreakers come here, next to which the three-deck motor ship seems like a shell. There is enough work for icebreakers on the Yenisei as well: after all, since mid-October, the lower reaches of the river have been covered with ice. Slowly but surely, the ice edge is moving up the river - to the south, until by mid-November the ice will cover the entire river. Only near Krasnoyarsk, below the hydroelectric dam, does a hundred-kilometer polynya remain unfrozen all winter. For six months, and in the north even more, the Yenisei sleeps under strong white armor. And in early May, the river begins to free itself from ice captivity. Ice drift on the Yenisei is a grandiose sight. It takes a whole month for the river to shed its ice shell all over. Sometimes, on steep meanders, ice gets stuck and powerful jams form. Like dams, they hold back the flow, and the river overflows its banks. More than once, terrible tragedies have happened because of this. In 1909, an avalanche that broke through the traffic jam hit the Strelka wharf at the confluence of the Angara and the Yenisei. At the same time, many ships that wintered at the mouth of the Angara were crushed and mutilated by ice. In 1941, a traffic jam formed fifteen kilometers below Krasnoyarsk. The ice blocked the way for the water, and it began to rise. During the day, the river level rose by six and a half meters! Water rushed to the city, flooding the streets, bursting into houses, flooding cellars. For five days the townspeople struggled with the elements. The traffic jam that happened in 1945 near Kyzyl is memorable. By spring, the thickness of the ice off the coast reached three meters. During the ice drift, the channel, strongly narrowed by thick ice, began to become clogged with impinging ice floes; there was a traffic jam that lasted sixty hours. Arriving water overflowed its banks and, having rounded the city, entered the channel below Kyzyl. The city was cut off by water from the rest of the world, and its outskirts were flooded. There are floods on the Yenisei in the summer, when it rains heavily. In 1800 and 1937, the periods of high water on the Yenisei and on the Angara coincided in time. Combining together, two floods formed a high powerful wave below the Strelka. Yeniseisk was flooded. Boats and steamboats floated along its streets. Other cities also suffered from floods: Minusinsk, Krasnoyarsk, Igarka. In the XNUMXth century alone, there were fifteen large floods on the Yenisei. Carrying out a huge mass of relatively warm fresh water from its basin, the Yenisei desalinates and heats the adjacent part of the Kara Sea. Journalists calculated that the Yenisei heat would be enough to melt a "cube" of ice four kilometers long, wide and high! The Yenisei, of course, is not only a picturesque water stream. It works in the turbines of hydroelectric power stations, waters cities and even melts ocean ice. No wonder it is called "the main blue road of Siberia". Snow-white liners, bearing for some reason all the names of composers, sail from the Krasnoyarsk Pillars to the Kara Sea for a whole week. And those who decide to make a trip along this route, XNUMX kilometers long, will have enough impressions for the rest of their lives. Such is the charm of this largest and most beautiful Russian river, crossing half of the Earth's greatest continent from south to north. 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