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WONDERS OF NATURE
Lake Iskanderkul. Nature miracle
Halfway from Dushanbe to Samarkand, between the rocky ranges of the Gissar and Zeravshan ranges, is the most picturesque part of the Tien Shan - the Fann Mountains. There are still few such corners where in a small space, among landscapes of rare beauty, at the foot of snow-capped mountains, three dozen large and small lakes are scattered at once, surrounded by green forests and white with foam, stormy streams of flowing streams and silver threads of waterfalls. The color of the water in none of the lakes is repeated, changing from pale green to turquoise and from blue to dark purple. And the heart of the Fann Mountains is the pearl of the Tien Shan - Lake Iskanderkul.
This is the largest lake in the Fann Mountains, located at an altitude of more than two kilometers. In shape, it resembles a triangle with an area of \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbthree and a half square kilometers and reaches a depth of seventy meters. On all sides it is surrounded by huge mountains, forming impregnable cliffs in some places. The highest of the surrounding peaks, Mount Kyrk-Shaitan, raised its gray-haired snowy head almost four kilometers above sea level, and the rest are only five hundred to seven hundred meters lower, so that they rise a kilometer or more above the smooth waters of Iskanderkul. The turquoise color of the lake water effectively contrasts with the red-brown rocks on the mountain slopes. (The Fann Mountains are composed mainly of limestone, which the oxides of iron have painted with all the wreaths of rust.) The swift rivers Sarytag, Khozormech and Serima, flowing in wooded gorges, and the talkative Cave stream carry their cold waters into the lake. The sand and pebbles brought by them formed small flat areas near the mouth of each river, on which groves are green - poplar, birch, aspen and juniper. Along the banks of Iskanderkul stretches a narrow border of bushes of willow, barberry, wild rose and sea buckthorn. The bluish-green water of the lake is quite cold, but it is quite possible to swim along the coast and in closed bays in summer. In winter, Iskanderkul freezes, and only in the middle of it remains a strip formed by a stream of flowing water. The Iskander-Darya River, originating from the lake, a kilometer below the source breaks into a narrow gorge with a powerful 38-meter waterfall. It is almost impossible to get closer to the waterfall to see it in all its splendor: the sloping edge of the gorge is covered with small gravel, treacherously crawling underfoot, and a tourist who is carried away by photography risks falling into a rumbling abyss. This mighty jump of the Iskander-Darya is often called the "Fan Niagara", although it would be more accurate to compare it with the African Victoria Falls, which also falls into a tight gap, preventing you from seeing yourself in all its glory. Near Iskanderkul, in the gorge of the Serima River, there is a small lake named Zmeinoye, so named by tourists because of the abundance of snakes in its waters. Above the lake, the river gorge shrinks and turns into a steep-walled canyon, ending with another spectacular waterfall. True, to get to it, you will literally have to wade through a thick thicket of shrubs and wild cherries.
Bears, snow leopards, mountain partridges, crested hoopoes, and ular turkeys live in the vicinity of the lake. True, the lake itself cannot boast of an abundance of life: only small fish are found here - char. Many legends are associated with this lake. According to one of them, Alexander the Great himself once passed through the Fann mountains with his army, and during the commander’s stay on the shores of the lake, Alexander’s favorite horse, Bucephalus, drowned in it. By the way, the lake itself owes its name to the great conqueror of antiquity - the name Alexander in Central Asia was pronounced like Iskander. Another legend tells that in ancient times the same Alexander seized the rich lands of Sogdiana - a state located then in these parts. But the freedom-loving highlanders did not reconcile themselves and with sudden attacks all the time disturbed the Greek army. Then the enraged Alexander ordered to dam the river on which the main city of the Sogdians stood, and the resulting lake forever buried the fortress and its brave defenders in its depths. In fact, Lake Iskanderkul was formed in an ancient glacial valley, covered by moraine deposits of the glacier and a mountain landslide. But the local residents, as well as the tourists who visited the lake, like the old legend more than the dry lines of scientific treatises. Moreover, the bewitching charm of Iskanderkul somehow by itself sets the traveler in a poetic mood. Crystal-clear waters, almost always a clear blue sky, mountain giants reaching sky-high heights, and green groves against a red-pink background of rocks give the lake a fabulous beauty. And admiring the eagle soaring in the sky on the bank of Iskanderkul, quite tiny against the background of snowy peaks, pink from sunset, you don’t want to think about geology at all. The mountain valleys and passes in the mountains surrounding the lake look completely different, although there are many amazingly beautiful places here. The stormy and rapid Iskander-Darya, foaming on the stones, runs away to the east, so that, merging with the Yagnob, to form the main water artery of the local mountains - Fandarya. And for a long time the pale green transparent waters of the Iskander Darya flow along the left bank, not mixing with the muddy stream of the Yagnob waters. In the Yaghnoba Gorge, a tourist will experience all the difficulties of mountain travel. In the upper reaches it is an open treeless valley with a slight slope. Only in two places the river is hampered by rocks, and it forms short canyons. But near the village Khrishtob Yagnob dives into the deepest long gorge. Here the traveler has to make his way over the river along a mountain path laid along a narrow ledge high above the river. Only once the mountains part for a short time, and then the walls of the canyon close again, and the path either climbs to a dizzying height, or descends to the very water, passing under the overhanging rocks. Only near the village of Anzob, the gorge widens, and the trail goes to the highway leading through the Anzob pass to the capital of Tajikistan - Dushanbe. But ahead of Yaghnob, another obstacle awaits - a giant mountain blockage. Once there was a lake here, but then the river washed its way through the thickness of the formed dam, and now all the foamy mass of its water disappears in the chaos of boulders that filled the gorge. The road descends like a serpentine and again meets Yaghnob, who escaped from the rubble near the village of Takfon. In the vicinity of Takfon, you can find clusters of red-colored conglomerates that form bizarre stone sculptures that look like giant towers, columns, obelisks and statues. And just before the confluence of the Yagnob with the Iskander Darya, the red rocks come close to the road. Black seams of coal are clearly visible in them. This is the largest Fan-Yagnob coal deposit in Central Asia, which has not yet been developed due to the inaccessibility of the area. But here you can observe the rarest natural phenomenon - an underground coal fire. For many centuries, a combustible stone has been burning underground, and the resulting gases, heated to three hundred degrees, break out with noise, but without smoke and flame, through rocky cracks and black mouths of caves. Their walls are covered with crystals of sulfur and ammonia, and the soil near the cracks is so hot that you can fry meat, bake cakes or boil tea on the stones lying here. And to the west of Iskanderkul, in the upper reaches of the Xingu River, a sparkling water staircase from the seven Marguzor lakes stretches along the mountain valley. The path to them leads from Iskanderkul through the Dukdon and Tavasang passes. Here the traveler can test his nerves, as in some places the trail passes through ovrings - artificial cornices built with stakes driven into the rock. Thanks to ovrings, tedious detours can be avoided. And a little further, passing the Kulikalon Lake, the second largest after Iskanderkul, you can go to the most picturesque Alaudin lakes in the local mountains. They are located at the foot of the most beautiful peak of the Fann Mountains - Chapdara. The caravan trail leads past the lakes to the Pushnovat pass, from where the path to Samarkand lies. And if you follow the road down the Fandarya, which cuts the Zeravshan Range with a narrow gorge, you can easily get into the valley of the Zeravshan, the largest river in these parts. The upper reaches of its valley are occupied by the Zeravshan glacier, one of the largest in the Tien Shan. Its length is almost twenty-five kilometers, and the thickness of the glacial stream reaches two hundred meters! Fourteen tributaries flow into it from two sides. Starting at an altitude of more than four kilometers, the glacier descends along the valley for one and a half thousand meters. The Fandarya gorge, which cuts through the tall mountains, looks harsh. Around only some cliffs and scree. And near the mouth of the Pasrud River, on a rock, rise the ruins of the ancient fortress of Sarvadar, which once guarded the path from the Zeravshan valley to Yagnob. Now the highway avoids difficult climbs on rocky passes, and for travelers who prefer modern modes of transportation, it has become the main road to the Fann Mountains. However, many tourists still choose the old tried and tested method - "walking with a sack". Mountain adventure lovers walk along the paths of the Fann Mountains past gloomy canyons and noisy waterfalls, red rocks and green groves to a magical lake of marvelous beauty, named after the great conqueror of antiquity. Author: B.Wagner
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