PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Windproof fairing for a motorcycle. Personal transport Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air It is well known that a windshield fairing is not at all a tribute to motorcycle fashion and not only protection of a motorcyclist from cold and dirt. A well-designed shield helps increase the speed of a two-wheeler by reducing aerodynamic drag. Well, the fairing gives the appearance of a motorcycle a logic and completeness: thanks to it, the motor vehicle acquires its own face, which distinguishes the car among thousands of similar ones. Many motorcyclists equip their two-wheeled vehicles with it. Indeed, a successful windshield significantly improves the appearance of the motorcycle; made mindlessly and without any connection with its appearance turns the motorcycle into something archaic, antediluvian. I would like to share the design of the fairing I created for my motorcycle. When choosing its design, I proceeded from those fundamental features that distinguish the Java-634 motorcycle from cars of earlier releases. That is why the ribs are clearly visible on my windshield, which, among other things, increase the rigidity and strength of the shell. To tilt the frontal plane of the frontal shield, I had to step back from the plane of the headlight connector forward. This made it possible to make the shield deep, well streamlined, and made it possible to place inside it a box for small items (gloves, atlas, photographic or radio equipment, etc.), protected from precipitation. The rear sections of the shield are made parallel to the main lines of the motorcycle; the upper part of the cut is parallel to the feathers of the front fork, the lower part is parallel to the front of the frame. This made it possible to obtain the appearance of the motorcycle as something holistic, harmonious. The fairing is a structurally opaque spatial shell glued from composite materials and connected to a transparent organic glass windshield. The sidewalls of the fairing have opening flaps with an adjustable angle of their deflection. By setting them to one of the fixed positions, you can reduce the vacuum inside the fairing. And this, first of all, reduces the so-called bottom pressure, the value of which significantly affects Cx - the drag coefficient. In addition, the reduction of rarefaction inside the fairing virtually eliminates parasitic air turbulence and reduces the suction of dust and water splashes. The upper (transparent) part of the fairing has a reduced height, but the effectiveness of the wind protection has not worsened because of this: the bent part of the shield condenses the air flow and actually deflects it approximately into the air intake-fan zone of the "integral" type motorcycle helmet (by the way, also self-made). The driver finds himself in a stagnant, rather comfortable zone. All this made it possible to limit the height of the windshield to approximately the level of the rider's chin, which made it possible to provide optimal forward visibility even in cases where weather conditions make the glass opaque.
The front fairing is equipped with two rear-view mirrors, the bodies of which are also glued from composite materials. The mirrors themselves are combined: each panoramic and direct. The inner cavity of the fairing is pasted over with black artificial leather. The fairing is attached to the motorcycle at four points. The main fasteners are bolts, with the help of which the headlight is fixed in the front fork. Auxiliary - these are racks on the motorcycle steering wheel and on the hinges of the fairing mirrors. By the way, the value of the slope of the shield can be changed by increasing or decreasing the height of the racks. Before you start working on pasting the fairing, you need to decide for yourself which method of making the shell you prefer to use: pasting on a blank or pasting in a matrix. There are advantages and disadvantages to both the first and the second methods. Work on the manufacture of the fairing should begin with its drawing in a convenient scale. Further, from improvised materials - cardboard, plywood and plasticine - a reduced model of the fairing is made, according to which its shape and dimensions are specified. When you are sure that the resulting model matches your design ideas, you can proceed to the manufacture of a full-size fairing blank. Start gluing on a blank with a box - a plywood box that could fit inside the future fairing. The shape of the box is brought in accordance with the sketches and the model. In this case, you can use packaging foam in combination with plasticine, gypsum, alabaster or even clay. It makes sense to first bring the shape on half of the fairing to the plane of its symmetry, and then reproduce the second half using cardboard templates. It should be taken into account that the blank reproduces the internal cavity of the fairing, therefore it is necessary to underestimate its dimensions in accordance with the thickness of the future shell - about three millimeters. The finished blank is covered with a separating layer - parquet mastic or grease (for example, CIATIM) and pasted over with fiberglass patches impregnated with epoxy resin, thoroughly mixed with a hardener in a ratio of 8:1. When working with fiberglass and resin, you should use rubber gloves, work outdoors or by a window, in a draft. Pasting is best done at one time, without waiting for the next layer to cure. After the pasting is completed, the shell is finished with epoxy putty (resin mixed with talc or tooth powder), sanded, primed, and then covered with the so-called "developing" layer of paint. By illuminating the shell with a matte lamp, the correct shape of the fairing is determined by the reflected glare. Deviations from the shape - kinks, bulges, cavities - are puttied and sanded, after which a second developing layer of paint is applied, and the operations are repeated.
The final finishing of the fairing is covered with several layers of alkyd enamel. The matrix gluing method should be recommended for those who intend to make several identical fairings. Work in this case begins with the creation of a master model. In fact, this is the same blank, but its surface must be finished as the surface of the future fairing. That is why plasticine is also excluded as a finishing material. The basis of the master model is also a plywood box, and the shape is fine-tuned using foam and epoxy putty. A matrix is removed from the finished master model - a thin-walled shell made of fiberglass (however, other materials can be used - burlap, trimmings of any fabrics, etc.) and epoxy glue. After the shell has cured, stiffening ribs are glued on top of it, and the shell is removed from the master model. Next, the matrix is placed in a box filled with wooden blocks and a compound of epoxy and dry sand. The matrix prepared in this way is ready for gluing the fairing.
It should be noted that with the matrix method of gluing the shell does not need to be painted. It is enough to coat the matrix twice with tinted resin as the first (after separating) layer (this can be done by introducing dry pigments into it or even some amount of oil paint and some kind of white pigment, such as magnesia or baby powder), wait until it is in the process curing will not reach a jelly-like state, and then continue gluing already with fiberglass patches and unpainted resin. Having brought the thickness of the shell to 3 ... 4 mm, the gluing is stopped. The fairing should be removed from the matrix in about a day. As a rule, the surface of the product with the matrix method does not require additional processing. The shell is only cut along the contour, and its inner cavity is painted. Author: V.Kovalev We recommend interesting articles Section Personal transport: land, water, air: ▪ Java motorcycle without battery See other articles Section Personal transport: land, water, air. Read and write useful comments on this article. Latest news of science and technology, new electronics: Alcohol content of warm beer
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