Air-hydraulic glider. Drawing, description

PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
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Air-hydraulic glider. Personal transport

Personal transport: land, water, air

Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air

Before proceeding with the construction of the glider, draw on graph paper the individual parts of the model in full size: half of the wing, stabilizer, keel, spout, rib. After completing the drawing work, proceed to the construction of the model. Start with the fuselage.

(click to enlarge)

The fuselage is glued together from two parts: rails and spout. For the rail, select a 900 mm long pine block. Process the bar so that its cross section is 8x6 mm along its entire length, and then, starting from the middle, plan it so that its cross section is 5x4 mm at one end. Through carbon paper, transfer the contour of the spout from the drawing to a plate 6-8 mm thick. Using a jigsaw, carefully cut out the nose along the contour. Clean the finished part thoroughly with a file. Glue the finished rail to the top of the spout and connect the parts with two to three small nails. Once the glue is dry, clean the fuselage with fine sandpaper and then paint it with bright nitro enamel. The fuselage is ready - proceed to the tail unit.

The stabilizer rim is assembled from two edge rails and two ends - this is how modelers usually call the rounded parts of the wing and stabilizer. The section of the rails is 4x2,5 mm in the middle and 3x2 mm at the ends. Bend the ends from steel wire with a diameter of 0,5-0,8 mm on a pipe with a diameter of 35 mm. Riveting the ends of the wire blanks to a length of 10-15 mm or sharpening with a file and bending at a right angle. Fasten the finished endings with threads with glue at the ends of the rails - edges. Now check if the stabilizer frame is skewed, if not, you can attach it to the fuselage with threads and glue.

For the keel frame, select a wire with a diameter of 0,8 mm and a length of 360 mm. It is also attached to the fuselage with threads and glue.

Next, proceed to the manufacture of the wing. First plan two battens 5x3mm x 1150mm long for the edges and one 4x2mm x 1100mm long for the ribs.

In order for the wing to turn out to be sufficiently elastic and equally strong along the entire length, the slats for the wing must be slightly chipped so that the cross section at the ends is 3x2 mm. Make wingtips for the wing in the same way as for the stabilizer. It is desirable to increase the wire diameter to 0,8-0,9 mm.

Mark the rails according to the drawing, cut off the excess, and process the ends as shown in the figure. The edges of the wing are ready. Now fasten the ends on them with threads with glue. After the glue has dried, mark the locations of the ribs and bends on the edges. Bend the ends of the wing. To make the bends smooth, heat the rails with a soldering iron over a length of 30-35 mm. Make sure that the V - shaped corners on both sides are the same.

The next operation is the manufacture of ribs. Cut the workpiece from the rail 3-5 mm longer than necessary according to the drawing. Sharpen the ends of the ribs. In the edges of the wing with a sharp knife, make grooves for the ribs. Then glue the ribs to the wing rim as shown. Coat the joints with glue.

Now bend the ribs by holding them over a heated soldering iron. Give each rib the profile shown in our drawing. Measure the width of the profile with a ruler, placing the wing on the surface of the table. So, the frame is assembled. Before attaching the wing to the fuselage, you will have to make another 7X6 mm slotted bar (see fig.). Fasten the finished bar with threads with glue on the fuselage.

(click to enlarge)

Before tightening the frame of the model, thoroughly clean it with sandpaper. Round off the top edges.

For sheathing, use a colored lavsan or plastic film. Glue the film with glue 88 or BF-2. If the film does not stretch well, iron it with a slightly heated iron, and only after gluing it to the wing frame. But do not be too zealous: a strong skin tension can lead to irreparable skew of the wing and stabilizer, the model will fly worse. Install the covered wing on the fuselage. Recall that the leading edge should be located on the fuselage 30-40 mm from the center of gravity of the model.

The assembled model needs to be adjusted. Try running it by hand. By the nature of the planning, determine whether you have correctly positioned the center of gravity of the model. If the model is pitching, that is, it lifts its nose, and then parachutes, move the wing 10-15 mm back, and if it dives, then, on the contrary, forward. But if this does not help, then in the first case, change the angle of attack of the wing by placing a gasket 1-1,5 mm thick under the rear pillar, and in the second - under the front one.

Now you can start making the accelerator. Figure 1 shows its principal drawing. The diameter of the shell not filled with fuel (water plus compressed air) is 18 mm, and its length is 175 mm. The main part of the accelerator is an elastic chamber 1. To make it, you will need a cylindrical rod with a diameter of 14 mm and a length of 200 mm and rubber from 5-6 balloons (it is better if you buy oblong balloons). Cut the balloons so that you get ribbons 160 mm wide. Coat these tapes with rubber glue on one side - Let the glue dry a little. Once again coat the tapes with glue and only then sequentially, layer by layer, but without undue tension, wrap the bar. The wall thickness of the elastic chamber should not exceed 0,8-1,0 mm. After the glue has dried, trim the edges of the chamber with a sharp knife, and then remove it from the rod.

Turn two plugs 2 and 3 on a textolite lathe. Their dimensions are shown in Figure 1. Pay special attention to the nozzle - its axis should be parallel to the accelerator axis and 3 mm lower. On the outer cylindrical surface of the plug 2 you can see the retaining ring. It is for this ring that the glider is fixed on the launch pad during launch. A recess is made on the outer surface of the plug. Exactly the same recess is provided on the outer surface of the plug 3. Starting to assemble the accelerator, put the ends of the elastic chamber on these recesses and wrap them with a strong thread impregnated with BF-2 glue. The accelerator is ready.

And finally, the last stage of work is the manufacture of the launcher (Fig. 2). The main unit is a receiver, a container for storing compressed air. Take a can of condensed milk. Poke two holes in the lid. Drain the contents. Rinse the jar thoroughly and dry. Holes should be sealed with solder.

Drill three holes in the bottom, wall and lid of the jar. Insert the nipple from the car cylinder into the bottom one, the pressure gauge from the garden sprayer into the side one, and the metal tube with the dosing valve from the oxygen cushion into the top one. Solder the joints of the parts with solder, and then wrap them with fiberglass thread impregnated with epoxy resin. Then coat the jar and tubes with epoxy and wrap with fiberglass tapes smeared on one side with the same glue. A can thus strengthened can now withstand an internal pressure of up to 10 hPa.

Place a locking plate over the top end of the tube and solder it to the tube. In addition, you will need a rubber plug and a safety clip. Cut out the jaws of the clamp from 2 mm thick sheet steel. Install them on the stop panel and tie them with a spring.

You will also need to make rails that support the glider when launched. You will have to develop their design yourself. It is only important to remember that when starting, the guides should not interfere with the takeoff of the model.

The receiver, stop plate and rails are mounted on a swivel ring and placed on a rectangular base (600x1000 mm) cut from chipboard.

Let's get acquainted with the order of launching the glider. Inflate the receiver with air using a manual car pump. Its volume is enough for several launches. Pour water into the accelerator, a medical syringe with a long needle is best for this purpose. Fix the booster under the fuselage so that the centers of gravity of the booster and the model airframe coincide. In this case, the plug of the accelerator 2 is held by a bracket, and the plug 3 by a rubber brace fixed on the screw and on the rear edge of the nose of the model. The accelerator nozzle, displaced relative to its center, occupies the lower position. Put the glider on the rails. The nozzle should fit snugly on the rubber plug. Grab the retaining ring of the plug 2 with the safety jaws and insert the pin with a cable about a meter long.

Set the glider at an angle of 15-20 degrees to the horizontal, turn the metering valve and fill the accelerator with compressed air. Please note: the diameter and length of the elastic shell of the accelerator should increase one and a half times. To start the model glider, you need to pull the pin. A trickle of water escaping from the nozzle will create jet thrust. The model will break off the guides and rush up.

Author: V.Krivonosov

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