Walking on the sea. Drawing, description

PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
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Walking on the sea. Personal transport

Personal transport: land, water, air

Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air

Today, walking on water on float skis is not uncommon. There are even competitions of water walkers. Maybe you want to try your hand at a new sport?

Walking on the sea

Let's talk about skis that are interesting in their own right, and in addition, they allow you to assemble a rowing catamaran, a pedal catamaran with a paddle wheel, a trimaran windsurfer or a water bike...

But first, about the fundamentals. There are several ways to make skis. We will focus on the most popular, made of fiberglass (Fig. 1). When disassembled, such skis are assembled into a bag and packed in a case measuring 2000x400x250 mm. They are easy to transport in any transport. The weight of water access for adults is within 10-12, for teenagers - 8-10 kg.

(click to enlarge)

A float ski is a fiberglass body, on which a base for leg support is attached with bolts (Fig. 2). And foam blocks are inserted in front and behind to increase buoyancy (Fig. 3). A cloth apron impregnated with a waterproof composition is stretched on top - a kind of deck (Fig. 5).

Walking on the sea

Let's start working on the ski with a punch (Fig. 4), it will serve to glue the matrix - the basis for making the body.

Cut out templates from plywood or hardboard. For the middle part of the float, five of them are required, for the bow and stern - two each. In the templates, select the grooves for the longitudinal rails. Then prepare the slats themselves: they are made of wood - six with a section of 20x20 and two - 30x30 mm. You will also need strips of 5 mm plywood - two 40 mm wide and 1400 mm long, and two 250x300 mm in size. Cut out the shaped parts of the sides from them - for the bow and stern parts of the punch.

Now you can start assembling. From rails with a section of 30x30 mm, make a keel with bow and stern beams. Paste templates into it. Also, fix the upper and side rails in sequence on the glue, strictly maintaining the distance between them. When the glue hardens, bend the ends of the rails (Fig. 4b), mark the required length and cut off the excess. In the beams, make grooves for the rails to a depth of 8-10 mm. Glue and screws secure them in these places. Having cut the bow and stern beams along the radius, install plywood sides on glue and screws.

The next operation is pasting the punch with whatman paper. To keep it better, use the buttons. Then they can be removed, and on top, shifting the joints, stick two more layers of drawing paper. Clean seams and other irregularities with sandpaper, and then level the surface with waterproof putty PF-002 or nitro. Carefully sand the blockhead again and paint with nitro enamel.

Now let's start manufacturing the matrix (Fig. 4a). Apply parquet wax mastic to the surface of the block, rub it with a woolen cloth and cover it again. This treatment will prevent the matrix from sticking to the punch.

Prepare fiberglass and epoxy. Recall that working with fiberglass requires strict observance of safety precautions: it must be carried out in a well-ventilated area and in rubber gloves.

First, a layer of binder is evenly applied to the punch with a brush. When it dries a little, it will take on a jelly-like appearance, another layer is applied and dry fiberglass is already laid on it. It should lie flat, without wrinkles and folds. It is best to roll the fabric with a roller or a stiff brush, but you can also use your hands. And so layer by layer is glued to the required thickness - 2-3 mm.

When the matrix dries, carefully remove it from the punch, cut off the excess fiberglass with a hacksaw. And for convenience in work, put the matrix on glue on wooden stands.

The body of the ski is glued in exactly the same way, only the matrix serves as a template for it (Fig. 4c), and the number of layers of fiberglass is taken from the calculation of the thickness of the shell - 1,5-2 mm. If you want your skis to look neat, tint the binder with oil paints when gluing the first layer (the amount of pigment is 10-12% by weight of the resin). The addition of 5-7% aerosil filler or magnesia will make the resin opaque.

After keeping the body shell for 24-36 hours, until the resin finally hardens, remove it from the matrix (Fig. 4d). File off the excess, clean the inner surface. Before final processing, check for leaks by immersing in water. If you find a leak, putty these places and clean them with sandpaper. Then glue the brackets into the body to install the supports.

The apron will protect the float from flooding with water (Fig. 5). Sew it from a dense fabric, for example, linen. A slit is made at one end and a nylon cord is inserted. A sleeve is sewn into the middle part. Cover the apron several times with stearin dissolved in gasoline so that it does not get wet.

Walking on the sea

Platform for legs - type of water ski bindings (Fig. 2). Please note that the heel part is movable. She is being pushed around her leg.

You will also need sticks (Fig. 6) - both as a support when moving, and to maintain balance. They can be made of wood (30 mm in diameter), picking up and strengthening, as shown in the figure, foam bars, washers, a belt. Collapsible sticks.

Author: N. Shershakov

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