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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Amphibian Mini mokik. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air Mini-mockies are always a big hit with boys. And for good reason! Small dimensions, efficiency, modern appearance, excellent driving performance - what more can you ask for? Maybe that's why many of them roll up their sleeves and take up tools. After all, if you try, you can make a mokik that can compete with serial two-wheeled vehicles. True, it is not very easy, but it is worth it.
The frame of our micromotorcycle is welded. If you do not have the skills of a welder, then before taking on the job, find out if there is a workshop nearby that would undertake to help you. It must be borne in mind that the design uses a set of purchased parts and assemblies. So, the front fork and saddle are from a Riga-11 moped, the steering wheel is from a mini-mokik, the engine is moped, type V-50, the headlight, rear position lamp and fuel tank are from any moped, the wheels are from a scooter or a child bike. It's not that hard to get them. Of course, other parts will do, but in this case, you will have to make adjustments to the frame design. After acquiring ready-made units, redraw their side projections on thick paper or cardboard and cut out the silhouettes with scissors that will be needed on the plaza - an accurate life-size drawing of the machine. Only with its help it is possible to finally link all the elements of any mechanism, to clarify their layout. For the plaza, you will need a sheet of plywood or drawing paper measuring at least 1,5x1 m. For the image of this machine, more than enough! Start the base tie by placing the wheels. Distance between them (base) - 800 mm. Then dock the “fork” to the silhouette of the front wheel, the “steering wheel” to it ... Having placed the silhouette of the engine between the wheels, choose the best place for it, not forgetting neither about the convenience nor about the reliability of mounting the motor on the frame. It makes sense to cut out additional cardboard "fasteners" - front and rear. Now try to combine all the elements of the mockup with a single frame. The main requirement for it is conciseness: no unnecessary details, simplicity of form and at the same time maximum manufacturability. One of the design options is in our drawing. This is a spinal type frame. Its upper arch consists of two curved pipes, the rear fork is curved from a steel strip. The rear engine mount consists of two figured plates cut from a 3 mm thick steel sheet and welded to the seat tube. The front engine mount is cut out of the same material. And finally, the seat tube that links the frame arc, rear fork and rear engine mount into a single whole.
Start making the frame with the preparation of its components. For the upper arches of the frame, two curved pipes with an outer diameter of about 30 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm are needed. By the way, such pipes can be bent cold, without heating. It is only necessary to fill the pipe with sifted dry sand and plug the holes with wooden plugs. Even a car jack is suitable for the role of a pipe bender. A simple fixture for fastening blank pipes is a piece of rail or channel, to which the blank is attached with a thick (5 mm diameter) wire. Then it remains to bring the jack under the workpiece and, pushing the rod with the lever, slightly bend the pipe. After moving the jack to the next point, repeat the operation. And you can control the work using the simplest template - a piece of thick wire, curved along the contour depicted on the plaza of the upper arc of the frame. The manufacture of the remaining elements of the frame is unlikely to puzzle you. Seat tube - steel (length 400 mm, wall thickness 2,5 mm and diameter 34 mm). It's easy to make a rear fork. Bend this horseshoe part from a 5 mm steel strip about 30 mm wide. In the feathers of the fork, provide grooves 10 mm wide for the axle of the rear wheel. Weld the frame in stages. First, tie all the elements of the frame with copper or mild steel wire and, after checking the correct assembly, tack by welding at two or three points at each joint. Then another check, if necessary - straightening and final welding. The next step is to install the engine mounting brackets, cut from a steel sheet, onto the frame. Fasten them with bolts and nuts to the engine, and with the help of wire - to the frame. Attach the brackets by welding to the frame: front - to the upper arc, rear - to the seat tube. After that, remove the engine and finally weld the brackets. Before you start assembling the mokik, you need to modify the rear wheel. The easiest way is to weld on top of the spokes conical discs, curved from a steel sheet 1-1,5 mm thick. They should be welded in points with a step of 20-30 mm around the circumference of the wheel rim and with a step of 10 mm - along the circumference of the sleeve. But before welding, remove the freewheel and brake parts from the sleeve, otherwise they will overheat. It is possible to strengthen the wheel without welding. To do this, cut two discs from a 3 mm thick duralumin sheet according to the diameter of the rim. In the center of each disc, cut holes for the bushing, then, together with the bushing, mount them in the wheel using M5 bolts and spacer bushings - tube segments with an inner diameter of 5,5-6 mm. Lay a duralumin strip over the spacer bushings. The wheel is ready. It remains to attach the driven sprocket from any moped or even the front drive sprocket from the Eaglet type bicycle. It is fastened with three M8 bolts and nuts. Now install the wheels in the forks, fasten the engine, fuel tank, saddle, headlight, ignition coil, steering wheel and controls - the "gas" handle, the clutch lever and the gear selector - manual or foot, to the frame. Not to do, of course, without a brake and steps. For reliable braking, one brake wheel - the rear one - is quite enough. The brake itself is a simplified, shoe type. This is a bracket made of 2,5-3 mm thick steel sheet with a brake pedal welded to it, located on the right side of the mokick on the rear fork of the frame. Footboards - self-made, from pieces of pipes. They are fixed by welding on the feathers of the front fork. A few words about fuel. The mokika engine runs on a mixture of A-76 gasoline and engine oil in a ratio of 25: 1. This means that a ten-liter can of gasoline will require 0,4 liters of oil. Before starting the engine, make sure that the gearbox is filled with engine oil and the ignition is set in accordance with the instructions. Shift the shift lever to neutral position, open the fuel valve, press the carburetor float booster button and, having filled the float chamber, vigorously press the kickstarter with your foot. After warming up the engine, depress the clutch, engage first gear and carefully release the clutch lever, adding "gas". When the mokik starts, accelerate it to a speed of 15 km / h, depress the clutch again and engage second gear. In no case do not develop maximum speed without making sure that the brakes are reliable. Everything is fine? Then have a good trip! Try to be reasonable. Even a mini-mokick can cause maxi trouble. Mini-mokik - a purely land vehicle - is easy to turn into a motor catamaran. It is enough to place the mokik on floats fastened with transverse beams (the car is fixed on them), install paddle wheels on the transoms and start the engine ... If you like this design, get to work. The hulls of the catamaran are made of hardboard 4 mm thick. According to the drawing, draw a sheet of hardboard into cells 100x100 mm in size and transfer the outline of the sheathing to it. As you can see, each float body is formed from a single sheet. To bend it exactly along the marked lines, cut them with a sharp joint knife to about half the thickness. After bending the workpiece, drill a series of holes at the joints of the edges with a pitch of about 50 mm. Then "sew" the case with pieces of copper or annealed steel wire. Glue the transom board and two frames into the formed hull, after which carefully glue all the joints and folds from the inside with strips of fiberglass on epoxy in 4-5 layers. When the glue dries, remove the wire from the outside of the body, and clean the ribs with a file and paste over with strips of fiberglass in 3-4 layers. Place the frames where the transverse beams of the catamaran pass. Cut them out of 12 mm plywood, select the dimensions according to the place. Glue into the housing also using epoxy glue and fiberglass strips. Cut the deck out of hardboard and attach to the hull with wire and epoxy glue. For final finishing, glue the body on the outside with fiberglass, and cover the inside several times with parquet varnish. As cross beams use pine bars with a section of 50x60 mm. Attach them to the hulls and frames with long screws and epoxy. Pre-drill pilot holes in the frames for the screws. Docking nodes - brackets bent from steel strips - fasten to the transverse beams. So that the axle nuts can be properly tightened when installing the mokik, insert spacers between the cheeks of the docking nodes. Mount the front docking unit on the front beam pivotally, the rear one - using two M6 bolts with nuts and washers. Install an additional sprocket on the rear cross member to provide tension to the propeller drive chain. Paddle wheels are duralumin. Their blades are made of a sheet 1-1,5 mm thick, and each one resembles a scoop in shape. Assemble them into a single knot on 3 mm thick duralumin disks using 5 mm bolts. The axis of the paddle wheel is a steel pipe with a diameter of 30 mm, a driven sprocket from any moped or bicycles "Eaglet", "Schoolboy", as well as a disk having the same diameter as the sprocket, must be welded to it. Insert two half shafts machined on a lathe into the ends of the tubular axis, their diameters at the landing sites correspond to the bore diameters of those bearings that you can pick up. Fasten the bearings on the transom of each housing using clamps curved from 3 mm thick steel strips. The maneuverability of the motorcycle catamaran is provided by steering feathers. Cut them out of 12mm plywood and hinge them onto the transoms using homemade loops - L-shaped hooks curved from 6mm wire. Install them on the feathers, and on the transoms - two parts resembling a pin with a ring. Attach all parts with epoxy. Now, on to the water. Remove the wheels from the mokik, fix it with stud axles in the front and rear attachment points, replace the chain with a longer one, throwing it over the engine drive sprocket and the driven one located on the paddle wheel axle. That, in fact, is all. Start the engine, engage first or second gear - and full speed ahead! Just do not forget that, even when going on a short trip on the water, you must definitely wear a life jacket. You can make it yourself - from several pieces of foam and dense fabric. Author: I. Zhukov
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