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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Amphibious all-terrain vehicle. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air The prototype of the proposed tricycle was a car made by me on the basis of the Izh motorcycle with two leading chamber wheels and a steering ski. It seemed that the desired result was achieved: the car ran well on snowy roads. True, the ski on packed snow did not cope well with the task assigned to it. Spring revealed other shortcomings of this design. Driving on roads in thawed areas even disabled a stainless steel ski. Instead, I put a pneumatic from the chamber 12.00-18 ”, but now the lack of a differential had a greater effect - the snowmobile was very difficult to control. Then I built a gearbox from an old GAZ-51 truck into the rear axle. The car became maneuverable, but other problems did not go away, and the main one was chamber pneumatics, they were barely enough for a year. For a long time I puzzled over what to replace them with, and somehow they suggested to me the technology of mechanical cutting of rubber, which turned out to be very useful. I decided to make tires for pneumatic running, cutting off part of the tread from truck tires, and at the same time radically improve the whole structure. Only the manufacture of the rear axle and wheels took me almost the whole winter. So if someone decides to follow my example, please be patient. But as a result, he will receive a car that will serve him for many years. With such wheels, the speed increases sharply, since there is practically no vibration, and the patency improves significantly - the presence of lugs affects. As far as I understood, the design lovers who saw my all-terrain vehicle were not so much interested in it itself - its design is not so complicated, but in the original wheels with tires. Therefore, I give a rather detailed description of their manufacture. For pneumatics, I opted for tires with a size of 12.00-18 ", these are on the wheels of GAZ-66 and ZIL-157 cars. Tires from the wheels of K-700 and T-150 tractor bogies are also acceptable for snow and swamp vehicles. They are much wider, but, unfortunately, also heavier. I chose the 18" tire diameter because I could make a wheel from the parts I have. If someone has the opportunity to purchase 12.00-16" wheels, then I would consider him lucky. Tires will go even those that are not subject to welding, but without through holes. Many hunters used to cut down wads for rifle cartridges from felt. So, for a long time, a cutter similar to a pyzherubka became my main tool. To insert the cutter directly into the drill instead of the chuck, I made it with the appropriate cone (working with a cutter-pyzherubka clamped in the drill chuck, you get tired faster). I took arbitrary sizes of the cutter, but simply sharpened it: I turned on the emery wheel and brought the cutter rotating in the drill to it. The number of "herringbones" of the tread on the wheel is such that it did not allow them to be "thinned out" through one without breaking the balance. Therefore, marking them with chalk, I did this: I cut off one - left one, cut off two - left one and then in the same sequence. And already in the "herringbones" the bosses of the lugs were located at their discretion. Before milling, I inserted a chamber into the tire and pumped it up. So the layer between the tread and the cord was felt better, although it still sometimes grabbed the cord threads, but the carcass was multi-layered. ny and these flaws did not affect the strength of the tire. (There is another, simpler technology: they simply strip the rubber off the tire to the cord, but then they lose the most valuable thing - powerful lugs on the tire.) I use the resulting pneumatics all year round, and their merits and durability were evaluated during three years of operation. My fellow craftsmen also made similar tires and were satisfied. This, of course, is not a revolution in the manufacture of pneumatics, but already some kind of progress. After all, our industry will not develop in any way with the production of tires for snowmobiles, and most home-made tires cannot afford imported ones. With the installation of such pneumatics on wheels, there is no need for longitudinal and transverse belts, and most importantly, for bolts, the number of which is determined by almost buckets when equipping an all-terrain vehicle with chambered tires. The wheels were made with a collapsible rim side, combining them from automobile and motorcycle ones. For each wheel on a guillotine made of sheet steel 2 mm thick, I cut out a strip measuring 1430x330 mm and bent it on rollers into a cylinder. I freed the "Izhevsk" wheel for 18" from the spokes, and cut the rim along the "grinder". From the halves of the rim-boards, I removed holes and recesses for the spoke nipples. There are nine petals on each side. I put a cylinder on one side, leaving the petals inside, and pulled it together with wire. The petals, as well as the joint of the cylinder sheet, were boiled, having previously adjusted the edges with a "grinder". I drilled holes with a diameter of 5 mm in the petals of the second side and put it on the cylinder with the petals outward, and through the holes in the latter I drilled the corresponding holes with a diameter of 4,2 mm in the walls of the cylinder and, having removed the borg, cut M5 threads into them. In the wheel, I used 15 ”discs (from Moskvich-402 or 407), after lightening them a little.
With the help of a drill and a file (you won’t use anything else), I selected four “windows” in each disc in the middle part of the rims, without affecting the landing shelves for 15” tires (the disc can “lead” in operation). Keeping in mind the design, I left the places for fastening decorative caps on the disk: they do not particularly affect the mass of the wheel, but with chrome caps and rims, the rollers look more beautiful. Then, from sheet iron 3 mm thick, I cut out eight plates for each wheel for spacers. Their height is 38 mm (half the difference between 18 "and 15"), and the length corresponds to the width of the rim of the "Moskvich" disk. Before welding, the plates were adjusted along the perimeter to the same dimensions in the package on a milling machine. "Bulgarian" with a cutting disk 3 mm thick in I made eight cuts on the rims of the "Moskvich" wheel (without touching the landing diameter of 15"), inserted prepared spacers into them and grabbed them by welding. Having fixed the disk on the half-axis of the bridge and rotating it, he corrected the position of the plates and welded them completely. The modified disc was inserted into the manufactured 18” rim and the spacers were welded to the cylinder. (As it turned out later, this was done prematurely: the design of the bridge is such that by shifting the discs in the rim cylinder, it is possible to achieve a symmetrical arrangement of the wheels relative to the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.) Then I put a lightweight tire with a camera on the cylinder and attached another rim to it with M5 screws (the screw heads do not affect the camera from the inside). The nipple of the chamber was passed into a pre-drilled hole in the cylinder and pumped up the chamber. The pressure is needed so that the chambers seat the tire bead on the motorcycle sidewalls. Their tight fit is guaranteed by identical dimensions, and the tire on the rim will not turn. My wheels have been in operation for more than three years and have not yet caused any trouble, unlike the previous chamber ones, which constantly reminded of themselves with something. (If one of the readers of the magazine adds to this technology, I will be glad.) To connect the rear axle with a motorcycle, I made an additional two-spar frame from inch stainless steel pipes. Their rear ends were bent on a pipe bender along the bypass of the pneumatics. (If there is no possibility or desire to bend the side member pipes, they can also be used straight. But then the width of the safety bars will have to be adjusted to the width of the brackets on the rear axle. This option is easier to manufacture, but the appearance is different.) The front ends of the side members using a special I connected the detachable bracket to the safety arcs and fixed their position relative to the motorcycle with rods-struts at several more points.
As safety arcs, the chrome-plated headboards fit perfectly into the design of the pneumatic duct. Cut both backs in half. The upper ends of the halves were attached using a detachable bracket mounted on the front tube of the motorcycle frame, and the lower ends were mounted on bosses screwed into self-made 8 mm steel engine mount plates. Before installing the halves of the safety arches on the frame, I put three clamps on each of them, on one of which I hung a fog lamp, and on the other a sound signal. The third clamp is necessary for docking the roll bar with the strut tube, which connects the motorcycle frame and the roll bar in one more place.
I fixed the safety arcs at the top on a bracket mounted on the front tube of the motorcycle frame under the gas tank. For the manufacture of a bracket made of steel 24 mm thick, I milled the front bracket. On a lathe, I machined cylinders with a diameter of 28,2 mm on both sides of it (the inner diameter of the safety arc pipe with a tolerance for interference). To facilitate the bracket, I made blind holes in the cylinders with a drill with a diameter of 17 mm. In the middle of the bracket, he made a semicircular recess with a radius of 20 mm, and on its sides there were holes with a diameter of 10 mm. The rear bracket is figured, semicircular with the same inner radius and M10 threaded holes on the "legs". The brackets wrap around the frame tube and are tightened with two M10 screws. On the cylinders I pressed the pipes of the safety arcs. I already drilled holes in the pipes and tips in place. I cut the M6 thread and secured the parts with two screws. The front bracket of the bracket and the screw heads are chrome-plated. The arcs below fixed on the bosses of the cheeks of the engine mount. Cheeks cut out of 8 mm steel. Then I machined bosses, the outer diameter of which also corresponds to the inner diameter of the pipe with a tolerance for interference. I cut the M20x1,5 thread both on the machined end of the bosses and in the drilled holes of the cheeks, screwed the first into the second and pressed the pipe onto the boss. But fastening the arcs to the motorcycle does not have the reliability and rigidity that is necessary for mounting an additional frame and tensioning the all-terrain vehicle drive chain. Therefore, the arcs are additionally connected to the motorcycle frame. To do this, he unscrewed the standard bolt for fastening the side trailer traction from under the saddle and inserted an axle with two homemade tips at the ends in its place. From them to the clamps, pre-installed on the arcs, he carried out two struts of bed pipes with a diameter of 27 mm with tips. At first, I pressed all the tips into the pipes, but in the course of work it turned out that it was better to put them on the thread, since in the future all parts must be disassembled for chrome plating. For the manufacture of rods and racks of the attachment frame, almost everywhere I used pipes with a diameter of 27 mm og the same bed headboards. They are chrome plated and look good. True, they have holes in the walls, but during the assembly, I set the rods so that these holes were hidden from view. In the strut pipes, I cut the M20x1,5 thread to a depth of 25 mm. I also made rods, only on them I installed tips with turnkey M20x1,5 lock nuts for 24, in which an internal groove with a diameter of 27 was made to a depth of 5 mm. In the tips, to facilitate them, I drilled blind holes with a diameter of 14 mm. In order not to confuse the connecting parts when assembling the all-terrain vehicle, I tried to unify them. (If possible, it is desirable to make one side of the connection with a right-hand thread and the other with a left-hand thread, which will provide better adjustment of the attachment in relation to the motorcycle.) The dimensions of the rods shown in the figures are recommendations, since during assembly they will have to be adjusted in place. For the all-terrain vehicle, I used the rear axle of the Moskvich-402 without brake drums. He removed the main gearbox from the crankcase and sawed off the attachment point of the drive gear "shank" from the housing with a grinder. I released a large helical bevel gear in the forge and turned its back side to fit the landing diameter and thickness of the sprocket with the number of teeth 56 and a pitch of 19,05 mm. I drilled the corresponding holes in the sprocket and, using standard bolts, put it on the modified gear. Previously, the body, in which the differential is heated, sawn along the "grinder" along, providing the sprocket with free rotation. I kept the differential and axle shafts. Having outlined the place where the asterisk passes on the crankcase of the bridge, he also cut it across with a "grinder". Here I also cut out another strip 40 mm wide so that the chain would not subsequently cling to the case. Then the bridge was assembled, centered and preliminarily scalded with four reinforcing bars to install a protective cover for the sprocket here. To do this, I made two stencils from cardboard, one repeating the outer profile of the axle housing along the section, the other along the outer diameter of the sprocket, taking into account the height of the chain and a small gap. I made protrusions in front of the casing, perhaps later I will enclose the chain in rubber tubes. I cut out two parts from 2 mm thick steel using stencils and grabbed them to the bridge body. Along the outer contour, both parts were connected with a metal strip. Before finally boiling, I was convinced of the alignment of the semi-axial casings ("stockings"). For greater reliability, I also welded a 5-mm steel truss truss from the bottom of the bridge. The bridge turned out not so heavy, but strong enough. To make a hub for the drive sprocket, I took an old "Izhevsk" wheel and, having cut off everything superfluous on a lathe, left only the brake drum. On the sprocket r = 18, I bored the inner hole for the hub tube, put one on top of the other and welded it. Since I used the hub from the "Izh" of the old model, I had to install a washer between it and the rear wheel drive housing on the axle, since the length of the spline connections is shorter and the hub is pressed (modern types of wheels are best used with a "native" hub; on a lathe "free" it from the spoke holes, and weld an asterisk onto the metal bearing housing). Brakes retained regular. I would like to warn you right away: untwisted wheels of such a large diameter have significant inertia, so you can’t brake sharply - large loads are transferred to the chain, sprockets, differential and axle shafts, which can lead to their breakdown. For the same reason, when the shock absorbers are compressed, the chain sometimes slips. So, instead of shock absorbers, I installed two special spacers from the same nickel-plated pipes as the rods. Bushings-tips pressed into the pipes. To connect the rear axle with the additional frame of the motorcycle, I made two docking nodes. The basis of each node is a section of channel No. 12. On one side, I connected it with two M10 bolts with a profiled plate welded to the bridge, to which a spring is attached to the Moskvich. The second side was connected with the casing of the bridge by "Muscovite" spring ladders thrown over the "stocking". Between the channel and the "stocking" I installed a hardwood gasket so that the axis of the bridge and the center line of the channel were parallel. I drilled holes in the channel shelves: the front one - for the diameter of the spar pipe, the rear one - for the tension bolt. When finalizing the bridge, the sprocket was installed with an offset to the left of the middle of the bridge by approximately 30 mm. I took this distance into account when making parts from channels: to maintain the symmetry of the wheels, I made the left part 30 mm longer than the right one. At the same distance to the middle, I shifted the holes in the shelves of the left part. The position of the wheels could be corrected by shifting the disks in the rims. I hurried to weld them, and this adjustment had to be done with washers on the hubs. So that in the event of a break in the drive chain, the rear axle remained on the side member pipes of the attachment, I made a special detachable bracket with a hole for the diameter of the pipe. The lower half of the bracket with threaded holes was welded from the outside to the channel flange. After tensioning the chain, the M10 bolts are tightened, and the bracket with its lips squeezes the spar pipe, connecting the motorcycle and the console as a single structure. I installed an easily removable ski under the front wheel (descriptions of its various options were repeatedly published in the "Modeler-Constructor"). Deep soft snow is, of course, an obstacle for my pneumatic drive - the mass of the motorcycle itself affects. His element is dense snow crust and impassability. Author: V.Baranov
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