Moped in the hands of a craftsman. Drawing, description

PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
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Moped in the hands of a craftsman. Personal transport

Personal transport: land, water, air

Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air

The owner of a light moped (or, according to modern classification, a mo-vela, that is, a motorbike) equipped with a D-8 engine, over time notices that his two-wheeled vehicle does not move easily enough, sometimes it does not pull uphill or overcomes bad roads. And starting the engine with the help of bicycle pedals, on the move, is not very convenient. However, such a moped can be improved.

For starters, the footboard. Young "rockers" in the first month of operation remove the chain of the bicycle drive, leaving the pedals only as a support for the legs and for braking. True, this support is very shaky, and in order to slow down with the pedals, you need to turn them almost half a turn back. The way out can be to equip the moped with motorcycle-type footrests and a real brake pedal.

To do this, remove the entire bottom bracket together with the drive sprocket, bottom bracket axle, brake lever ratchet, lever and pedals. Instead, in the same hole in the frame, install a homemade assembly consisting of footpegs (from any mokik or light motorcycle) welded to the bases - pipe sections with an outer diameter of 20 mm. Weld a nut with an M8 thread (left) and a sleeve with a hole with a diameter of 8,5 mm (right) into the free ends of the pipes. On the right rough with a diameter of 20 mm, put on a sleeve (a piece of pipe with an inner diameter of 20 mm) with a brake pedal welded to it, curved from a bar with a diameter of 10 mm.

Mounting the assembly on a moped is easy. Insert the bases of the footrests into the hole of the carriage and connect with a bolt with an M8 thread. You will have to tighten this bolt with a screwdriver, so pre-cut a slot 2 - 3 mm deep in the bolt head. To prevent the pedals from becoming loose, place an elastic split washer under the bolt head.

Some difficulties can be caused by connecting the brake pedal to the brake mechanism of the rear wheel. The fact is that the regular cable for this is short, and it should be replaced with another, longer one. Fastening it to the brake pedal is simple and, as practice has shown, very reliable: the cable loops around the brake pedal and is clamped with a short bolt with an M8 thread, a washer and a nut. Saw two grooves on the head of the clamping bolt with a round file - they will prevent the cable from slipping out of the clamp. To prevent the cable from fraying at the point of contact with the pedal, put on it a piece of sheath from the gas or brake control cable. To return the pedal to its original position, equip it with a loader spring.

Box for a moped. Your engine will easily cope with road difficulties if you supply it with the simplest gearbox. As you can see from the picture, the box is designed like a gearshift mechanism of a sports bike. But for a moped, only two sprockets are required - two gears are enough for it.

We do not claim that making and adjusting such a gearbox is a simple matter. On the contrary, it requires certain locksmith skills, turning, welding.

Now - about the box itself. There is already one asterisk on the moped - a standard driven one, the one that is fixed on the rear wheel. We need another one with a large number of teeth - about 10 more than on a moped. This can be bought at a store that sells spare parts for bicycles and mopeds. Note that sprockets from some children's bicycles are also suitable.

If you can’t find a finished asterisk, then make it yourself by first calculating its radius. To do this, multiply the chain pitch (for the motor chain of a moped, the chain pitch is 12,7 mm) by the number of teeth of the future sprocket - you get the length of the dividing circle. Dividing it by the number 27π=6,2832, you get the radius.

Pick up a duralumin blank from sheet b4 and draw a circle of the calculated radius on it, and then carefully divide it into a number of parts equal to the number of teeth using a marking bench compass. Mark the centers of the holes with a core and drill them with a drill of the same diameter as the chain roller. Cut the workpiece around the circumference of the protrusions of the teeth and file their tops with a file.

Moped in the hands of a craftsman
Equipping a moped with footrests and a brake pedal of a motorcycle type: 1, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 - parts of footrests from a heavy moped or light motorcycle; 2, 7 - footboard bases (steel pipe 20x1,5); 3, 8 - thrust rings; 4 - nut M8; 5 - bolt M8; 6 - bushing; 9 - brake pedal bushing; 10 - brake pedal (steel bar Ø 10); 16 - clamp (modified M8 bolt with nut and washer); 17 - cable; 18 - a piece of cable sheath; 19 - tube (rubber)

Moped in the hands of a craftsman
Gearshift mechanism: 1 - cam sector; 2, 4, 7 - nuts; 3,6 - bolts; 5 - caliper pulley; 8 - lower sleeve; 9 - spring; 10 caliper axle; 11 - top sleeve; 12 - drive rod; 13, 19-cotter pins; 14 - moped frame; 15 - bush-roller chain; 16 - caliper lever; 17-pedal; 18 - rubber bushing; 20 - lever; 21 - pedal bushing; 22 - footboard

Moped in the hands of a craftsman
Kickstarter for a moped: 1 - trigger lever; 2, 14 - nuts; 3, 6 - washers; 4 - axis-bracket of the starting lever; 5 - return spring of the starting lever; 7 - plug-leash; 8 - two-pronged ratchet pawl; 9 - crankcase cover; 10 - engine crankcase; 11 - groove for the ratchet pawl; 12 - screw for fastening the fork-leash; 13 - lever pedal of the starting device; 15, 18 - screws; 16 - cutter; 17 - spring for fixing the fork-leash; 19, 20 - bushings; 21 - gear wheel of the engine

Attach the sprockets to the rear wheel so that the larger one is at the wheel hub.

Next is the gearshift mechanism. How it is arranged is clear from the figure. Two bushings are welded to the left lower leg of the fork of the rear wheel of the moped. A caliper is fixed at the bottom - a spring-loaded lever, at the end of which there is a small pulley. The lever can move in the sleeve to the right and left, throwing the chain from one sprocket to another, and the spring constantly keeps the chain taut. A cam sector is installed in the upper sleeve: moving, it depresses the caliper and thereby transfers the chain from a small sprocket to a large one. When the sector moves in the opposite direction, the spring pushes the caliper back to its original position, and the chain moves to the small sprocket.

And finally, the shift pedal. It is a sleeve with a pedal platform and a lever welded to it. The lever is connected to the cam sector by a thick wire rod. Thus, when you press the pedal, the chain is transferred to a large sprocket - first gear is engaged. If you pick up the pedal with the toe of your boot and move it up, then the chain will be transferred to the regular sprocket and the second gear will turn on.

Kick for a moped. Do you know what is the difference between a moped and a mokik? A moped is a motor plus pedals, and a mokick is a motor plus a kick starter. Of course, it is easier and more convenient to start the engine with a starting device than with pedals.

First, let's look at the kickstarter device. If you remove the right cover from the crankcase of the D-8 engine, then under it you will find a large gear wheel that meshes with the small gear of the crankshaft. It is this wheel that will become the basis of the starting device. Cut inclined teeth on its end, thereby turning it into a kind of ratchet. The depth of each tooth is 2 - 2,5 mm, the pitch is through two or three teeth of the wheel. By the way, focusing on them, you can quite accurately maintain the distance between the teeth of the ratchet.

Modify the crankcase cover. Cut a groove about 5 mm wide in it (its shape is shown in the figure) and fasten the bracket axle with screws to install the trigger lever.

It is better to use the starter lever ready - from the bike drive of a moped or any bicycle. Its refinement comes down to cutting the pedal axle to a size of 70 mm, after which pull a piece of rubber hose onto the axle.

Hinge (two screws) connect the fork-leash with the trigger lever. Saw it out of duralumin and rivet a two-pronged ratchet pawl to the free end so that the teeth cut in it coincide with the ratchet teeth

The trigger mechanism uses two springs. One, located on the axis of the kickstarter lever and working in torsion, serves to return it. The second, connecting the lever and the fork-leash, works in tension and is designed to fix the leash in two positions: pressed against the ratchet wheel and pressed from it.

And one more important detail is the cutter, which discards the leash from the ratchet wheel at the end of the working stroke. Without it, starting can result in an engine failure - the leash will crash into the crankcase cover. To prevent this from happening, fix a duralumin corner with a beveled shelf on the crankcase cover. Getting on it at the end of the working stroke, the leash rises and disconnects from the ratchet.

Try to start the engine now. Disengage the clutch by placing the lever on the latch, move the leash with the toe of your foot to the position where the pawl engages with the ratchet wheel, and boldly press the pedal.

Author: I. Zhukov

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