Windsurfer. Drawing, description

PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
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Windsurfer. Personal transport

Personal transport: land, water, air

Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air

Not everyone, we think, will be able to make a windsurfer himself. And it's not a matter of skill. After all, it is recommended to cut it from foam and even cover it with fiberglass on epoxy resin. Where can I get all this? But it looks like a solution has been found. Hungarian boys came up with the simplest design that can be made from non-deficient materials.

Windsurfer
Windsurfing: 1 - hull board, 2 - fin, 3 - centerboard, 4 - mast hinge, 5 - boom to mast attachment point, 6 - mast, 7 - sail, 8 - boom

The board-body is perhaps the most time-consuming part of the windsurfer. Let's start with her. Its basis is a longitudinal beam, made up of four blanks. Saw them out of pine boards 25 mm thick according to the dimensions shown in Figure 1. Please note: the wood should not have large knots, twists, cracks. Fasten the workpieces together with tubular copper rivets with a diameter of 6-8 mm and waterproof glue. Two holes in the middle part of the beam - blind, 100 mm long, and through, 350 mm long - are designed for crackers and a sliding centerboard.

(click to enlarge)

Figure 1 shows a theoretical diagram of the board-body and its design. The numbers indicate: 1 - longitudinal beam, 2 - frame, 3 - stringers, 4 - bow board, 5 - sheathing and 6 - stern board

Four frames represent a transverse set of the hull. The blanks are cut from a pine board 20 mm thick. And the stern and bow - from a board 50 mm thick and are adjusted in place.

Four longitudinal slats-stringers form the sides of the projectile. They are selected from a pine bar with a section of 20x20 mm and a length of 3700 mm.

The body is sheathed with waterproof plywood 3 mm thick. If you can’t get it, use the usual carpentry. The deck, where the athlete stands, should be made of a thicker sheet, for example 10 mm, or reinforced with 2-3 layers of 40 mm plywood. The sheathing is attached to the frame with epoxy glue and, for strength, is stitched with small nails in XNUMX mm increments.

For greater water resistance, soak the case 2-3 times with hot drying oil and dry thoroughly. If thin cracks have formed at the joints, they must be puttied, and then the entire body should be painted with bright enamel paints.

On the paint that has not yet dried out in the place where the athlete is standing, pour fine river sand, then the legs will not slip.

Figure 4 shows the design of the hinge: 1 - mast, 2 - screw, 3 - lining (steel 2,5 mm thick), 4 - cotter pin, 5 - washer, 6 - hinge cracker, 7 - bolt, 8 - washer, 9 - wing nut, 10 - channel, 11 - lining (steel), 12 - step cracker, 13 - forging, 14 - nut, 15 - washer, 16 - stud, 17 - wing nut, 18 - sleeve, 19 - bolt, 20 - axis.

The fin (see Fig. 2) is sawn out of a three-millimeter duralumin plate or waterproof plywood 10 mm thick. It is attached to the body using a duralumin tee profile or two wooden slats with glue and screws. The wooden fin will also need to be covered with 2-3 layers of hot drying oil.

The daggerboard (Fig. 3) is made of plywood. Two identical blanks are glued together and tightened with screws. The thickness of the daggerboard is 20 mm. Its final contours are adjusted according to the scan - we present it on a grid with a cell of 20x20 mm. The profile of the centerboard should be convex, symmetrical. Here you will have to work with a planer, a rasp, and sandpaper of different grain sizes. A limiter is attached to the upper part of the centerboard with glue and screws - an oak or beech plank with a section of 50x15 mm and a length of 400 mm. After finishing and puttying, the centerboard is also impregnated with hot drying oil.

The design of the sail control hinge is shown in Figure 4 and does not need special comments.

Boom - a kind of steering wheel with which the athlete controls the sail, made of a duralumin pipe with a diameter of 22x1,5 mm and a length of 6 m (see Fig. 5). If pipes of this length are not found, use two or three pieces, joining them with duralumin plugs and fixing them with rivets.

The mast is easier to make from a duralumin pipe with a diameter of 35-40 mm. Even better, if you buy a duralumin high jump pole, which is in sporting goods stores. But even a wooden mast, cut from straight-grained wood, is in no way inferior to a metal one. After final processing with a planer, rasp and sandpaper, bring its diameter in the upper part to 40 mm, and in the lower part to 65 mm. Paint with several coats of hot drying oil and oil paint.

The boom is attached to the mast with two beech or oak linings and two metal clamps (Fig. 6).

The sail must be sewn from a light and durable material, such as tarpaulin or percale. With a width of 130 cm, about 7 m of fabric will be cut. It is better to sew individual panels together with a double seam or a zigzag seam with a large step and always with nylon threads. At the height of the athlete's head, a transparent window made of lavsan film is sewn into the sail. The mast is inserted on the sail into a special pocket, cut from a thicker and more durable fabric.

Armor is made of elastic plastic 2 mm thick or wooden slats 4-5 mm thick. They are placed in lat-pockets, sewn from the same fabric as the sail. Cloth scarves are sewn into the corners of the sail - from the fabric that remains from the cut. Eyelets are inserted into the tack and clew pockets - metal thin-walled tubes with washers made of copper or brass. They serve to fasten the braces of the sail. Eyelets can be replaced with metal rings sewn into the corners with nylon threads.

The projectile is ready. On a warm summer day, you can try it on a pond. Don't be discouraged if staying on the board is difficult at first. A few practice sessions, and you will master both the projectile itself and the control of the sail.

Author: A.Aleshkin

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