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DIRECTORY
Chapter 3. Tools and devices for the equipment of caches. Spy things 3.1. Instruments To build a cache, you will need tools. You probably already have some of them. If not, then this chapter will help you choose what you need. Let's start with a simple screwdriver. The main requirement for a screwdriver is that its blade must fit snugly into the slot of the screw. You don't want to leave marks on the head of a screw showing that it has been tinkered with recently. Suppose you want to hide something in the base of a table lamp, the bottom of which is fixed with screws. If the screwdriver does not fit snugly, there will be dents and scratches on the slots of the screws, which will be visible to anyone who lifts the lamp and looks at it from below. Wedge-shaped blades often pop out of the slot when the screwdriver is turned. It is unlikely that you will be able to buy screwdrivers with a parallel sharpening in the nearest hardware store. Most of them sell expensive scrap metal under the guise of screwdrivers. You need a set of so-called "gun screwdrivers". You can buy them only in specialized stores. You will also need a hammer. An iron mallet is good for hammering nails or for chiselling, but a plastic or leather one is better if you need a little effort without leaving marks. Putting the secret panel back in place by gently tapping with a hammer is a rather delicate job, and you should not leave dents that will give you away. You may also need a so-called "mechanic's hammer" with a copper head. It is useful for working with punches, soft copper will not damage them. There are several types of punches. A simple cylindrical punch is designed to knock out pins. You will need it when disassembling some products assembled on cylindrical or tapered pins. The locksmith's punch has a conical tip for punching holes. The automatic punch has a spring design. You place the tip of the punch where you want to make a notch and press hard. In this case, the firing pin rises, pressing against the spring. When the stroke of the striker ends, it is released and strikes, making a notch. For drilling, hand drills, electric drills and drilling machines are used. A hand drill works slowly, but for delicate work it is indispensable. If you need to make a notch in a thin plate, you can not cope with the electric drill and pierce the plate through - all the work will go down the drain. The main advantage of a hand drill is that it does not depend on power outages and allows you to work in places remote from the network. It is also important that it works quietly. Maybe one day you need to drill a hole very discreetly, and then a silent drill can save your life. The rotator is very convenient if you have to work hard on the tree. Buy a good set of drills for it, although it will cost you a lot. An electric drill saves a lot of time, but only if you choose the right one. Don't waste your time and money on cheap models, buy a drill with variable speed and reverse stroke. Then you can drill different materials with it. For example, plastic melts at high drilling speeds. Wood at a normal speed of 1750 rpm starts to burn if the drill is thicker than 0,2 mm. You can drill for a smooth or threaded hole. In both cases, you will need a steady hand to point the hole exactly at right angles to the surface and the drill will go straight without dangling. If you are not very confident in your hand, you will need a drilling machine It is quite expensive, unless you buy a used or artisanal one. The main advantage of the stack is that the drill will not "walk" and the hole will be even. On the flock, you can also perform milling and shaping work, drill cavities. For shaped surface treatment, you will need special milling cutters. Do not try to use drills for this. They are not designed for this, and although you may succeed, there is a high risk of breaking the drill. Drills come in three types: carbon steel, high speed steel, and carbide coated. Carbon steel drill bits are designed for wood and plastic work. HSS drills drill metals, including cast iron, steel, aluminum, brass, bronze, etc. Carbide coated drills have tungsten carbide coated tips. They are designed for machining very hard materials such as tool steel. For housework, a masonry drill will be very useful. Any stone, masonry and even steppe panels have a high erasing ability. Even a high quality HSS drill bit can be ruined by drilling just one hole in a wall panel. The masonry drill bit has abrasion-resistant, carbide-coated cutting edges so you can drill through stone without worrying that it will wear out prematurely. Drilling work It is both science and art. Here's what to look out for:
If you want to make a tapped hole, you will need a tap. Before using it, you need to drill a hole of a strictly defined size. In tool stores, you can purchase a special table that indicates which drills are needed for threaded holes of different diameters. Taps are usually made from high speed steel. When buying them, be careful: if the taps are not high speed steel, do not buy them. This is money thrown away. Exists three types of taps:
Use the right type of tap or you'll be in trouble. The first tap with a long taper shank makes it easy to start threading in a drilled hole. The second tap has a short taper and is not as tapered. It is not so easy for them to start a thread, especially if there is no mechanical fastening, but in general, this is an almost universal tap. They are harder to work with, so be careful. Both of these taps are for tapping through holes. The third tap of the set has practically no constriction. It is designed to cut threads to the bottom of a blind hole. But you need to start cutting a blind hole with the first or second tap and only then move on to the third. Tip: When tapping, always use lubricant. Don't be stingy with the oil, it will carry out the sawdust and prevent seizing. Files are almost always needed for wood and metal work. In any hardware store, an incredible amount of a wide variety of files. Whatever you're going to do, don't buy a kit. Choose one or two files for a specific task. An important tip for working with a file: grind the workpiece forward. The teeth of the file are designed so that they cut in one direction only. If you press while moving backwards, they will become dull or break. Screw a comfortable handle onto the file. Brush it from time to time, otherwise the teeth will become clogged with material, which will increase friction and reduce work efficiency. Try to work with a small file, especially if you do not need to remove very much. It cleans the surface well without leaving marks. The chisel is designed to gouge holes in wood. A set of these tools is an indispensable thing when arranging hiding places in doors, baseboards and furniture. Don't save money on it. Buy the very best you can afford. In most cases, a set of three chisels is sufficient. The most desired dimensions (blade width) are 10, 15 and 20 mm. Working with a chisel requires certain skills. Practice well on the block of wood before you get down to the real thing. In some cases, you may need a riveting machine, for example, if you need to disassemble and then reassemble some object on rivets. You may want to put rivets instead of screws so that when you search it, it will not be visible that the structure is collapsible. A manual rivet machine will work best for your purposes. It allows you to insert a rivet from one side. In addition, you will need a supply of rivets of different diameters. Nippers are a simple tool, but they should not be neglected. For starters, simple wire cutters will do, but it’s better to have a pair of pliers in the kit, especially with a side cutter for wire on the outside of one cheek. You can include separate side cutters in the kit. Don't forget the needle nose pliers for working in tight spaces Plumbing pliers (gas wrench) will be needed to quickly disassemble the plumbing system. The water wrench is especially handy for working in tight spaces. A set of adjustable wrenches is very useful, as it can be used for nuts of various sizes, including large nuts on water pipes. The good thing about keys is that they leave no traces that could give you away. Your set should include keys of different sizes. However, for delicate work, such wrenches are not the best tool. It is difficult for them to reach the nut in narrow places. If you're going to be working on the screws, bolts, and nuts on your car, invest in a set of open-ended wrenches and box wrenches. You might want to make a hiding place in a car or truck, then these keys will be very useful to you. The most versatile type of key is combined Excellent key sets are produced by Hazet, PROFESSIONAL (Germany) and VATA (Japan). To work with the chassis of car electronic devices, socket wrenches are needed. They can turn nuts in tight spaces where a regular wrench cannot be turned. This is where a cheap set comes in handy. However, if you intend to use them often, buy a more expensive set. Cheap keys break quickly. The so-called universal ball wrenches are also convenient. If you use them only occasionally, a cheap kit is enough. If often, it is worth getting a set of such keys. A set of eleven keys for sizes from 8 to 36 is produced by Hazet (Germany) and is sold in tool stores. We also need hacksaws but wood and metal. For work on wood, it is enough to have a carbon steel hacksaw blade. The hacksaw blade must be made of high speed steel. Remember that the force should only be applied during the forward stroke of the saw; in the reverse stroke, the teeth should ideally not come into contact with the material. An electric saw with a machine is usually not needed. You will need it if you will make furniture yourself or for any heavy work Usually a light circular or reciprocating saw will suffice Often a shoe knife is needed. It is best to choose a knife with a one-sided blade, it is very convenient for fine work, for example, if you need to cut pieces from a carpet so that the cuts are not visible. If you are going to resolder electronic circuits or, for example, solder something into a tin can, you will need a soldering iron. To work with an electric board, you can use a conventional rod-type soldering iron with a power of 25-40 W, and a powerful soldering iron in the form of a gun is better for soldering cans. For heavy soldering work, for example, if you want to hide something in the muffler of a car, you will need a blowtorch. You will also need solders and fluxes of various types. Stock up on sandpaper of varying grits, glass paper, and #5 sandpaper for dry and wet sanding You may not remember them at first, but it's best to have them on hand when you need them. Don't forget a small piece of wood, about 5x10 cm, that will serve as the sanding block. For finishing operations, paints and brushes will also be needed, but which ones cannot be said in advance. 3.2. Glue You can't do without glue. It may happen that it is maple that will save your hiding place. First, you need wood glue. Ordinary casein glue is good for this purpose. The disadvantage of most wood adhesives is that when moisture gets in, the wood becomes damp and the joint loses its strength. Epoxy glue will do for a lot of cases, but it has a number of features that you should be aware of. First, it fills all the free space, unlike other adhesives. This is because epoxy resin has its own mechanical strength, while many other adhesives can only bond materials that are tightly pressed together. In addition, epoxy adhesive is versatile, as it accepts fillers, such as fiberglass, sand, talc and other materials, which increase its volume and allow you to fill the space. Epoxy glue always consists of two parts, resin and hardener. They must be mixed immediately before use in a strictly defined proportion. When mixed, the glue remains valid from one minute to half an hour, depending on the number of mixed components. The more hardener, the faster the adhesive hardens. When bonding with epoxy adhesive, the surfaces must be clean, dry and free of grease. Temperature is also important In the cold, epoxy simply does not harden. Epoxy can also be used to make counterfeit electronic components if the appropriate dye is added to it. Another use for epoxy is to apply it to screws or bolts if you don't want them to be unscrewed. For example, you don't want searchers to dismantle something. You can convince them that the bolt is stuck. It is enough to drop epoxy on the threads, and the bolt, screw or nut will be almost impossible to unscrew. How can you then unscrew the bolt when you need it? e.g. acetone Cyanoacrylate, or superglue as it's called, is wonderful in many ways. As a rule, it hardens in one to two minutes as a result of contact with air. It is applied only in a thin layer, since it does not have its own mechanical strength. For this reason, it does not adhere well to porous surfaces. Superglue is good for bonding metal, glass, plastic, and some hardwoods. In most cases, you only need a drop or two of this glue. The biggest problem with superglue is its packaging. The tubes are very inconvenient, as the glue starts to dry as soon as you open the tube. It is best to use a glue stick. Such a pencil costs a little more than a tube, but it makes sense to buy it. It has a spring valve that measures and releases the right amount of glue, one has only to press the pencil to the surface. In some cases, other types of adhesives will help: Supercement, PVA, glue No. 88 and aviation glue. Another chemical that may be useful is cold bluing blue. It is a liquid or paste that gives ferrous metals a dark blue tint, and various alloys a deep gray or black color. It can mask the shine of freshly removed metal after you have arranged a secret compartment in a metal object. If you have made a hiding place in the bottom of the car, an aerosol can of anti-corrosion primer will come in handy. It does not matter whether there is already an anti-corrosion coating on the bottom of the car or not. This aerosol is like a lubricant, and when you drive a couple of miles, a film of road dust will perfectly mask the traces of interference. Having a tool is half the battle. You still need to know how to use it. 3.3. Electronic devices and fixtures In addition to a mechanical tool, you may need special electronic tools and devices to equip the Cache. First of all, this applies to cases when you want to equip a cache in a wall, under a floor or underground. Also, you may need electronic devices when wiring the lighting of the cache or installing any special electrical equipment, such as an electric locking device. 3.3.1. Hidden wiring finders So, you want to arrange a hiding place and have already acquired all the necessary tools. However, before you open the floor or gouge the wall, it will not be superfluous to make sure that there is no hidden electrical wiring or power cable in the place of your choice. After all, by accidentally damaging the wiring, you can deprive yourself, the whole house or even the entire block of electricity. In addition, if you work with a metal tool at the same time, then your life may be in danger. To avoid such troubles, devices called seekers, or hidden wiring detectors, are used. These simple tools will help you protect yourself from electric shock and choose the right place for the hiding place. Below are several schematic diagrams of such devices, the repetition of which, in our opinion, is available even to a schoolboy. Back(Stash equipment) Forward (Methods and means of detecting caches)
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