A screwdriver is a tool for tightening and loosening screws, screws, round nuts with diametrically located grooves-slots. In addition, a screwdriver is convenient in many cases when you need to pry something, move it away, etc.

It is a steel rod of round or square section, one end of which is shaped like a blade with a blade. The opposite end is shaped like a handle or a point onto which the handle is mounted. The blade of the spatula is blunted so that, when popping out of the slot of the screw head or screw, it does not violate the upper edges of their walls. The thickness of the blade must be less than the distance between the opposite walls of the slot, of course, for a certain size of screwdriver. The blade should freely enter the slot to its very depth.

Failure to comply with this condition leads to the destruction of the slot and the inability to unscrew the screw or screw. The slot of a large screw, for example, is restored by cutting with a hacksaw blade to a great depth. But not always there will be conditions for this. The screw that secures the flywheel of the crane head with a hacksaw cannot be reached. And keep in mind that the thickness of the hacksaw blade for screws M4, M5 is redundant. Their slots are much narrower. Therefore, in the absence of a screwdriver blade that matches the slot, it is better to sharpen the blade or make a screwdriver with the desired blade. For isolated cases, when the position of the screw head is open on all sides, instead of a screwdriver, a steel plate, a knife blade, a lever for lifting buttons, a penny, etc. are successfully used.

At factories, screwdrivers are made from special tool steels U 7, 40X, 50HF. High carbon content and additives such as chromium, vanadium, etc. determine the bluntness and durability of the screwdriver. Most small screws are made of brass or coated steels 20, 30. That is, a screwdriver made of harder steels than screws and screws, which leads to damage to the heads of the latter.

Serially screw-drivers make several types. Of the first type, there are 73 sizes with a length of 100 to 400 mm with a plastic handle. Screwdrivers with a round shank - for screws and screws with a slot width of 0,3 to 4 mm, with a square shank - for a slot from 1,6 to 4 mm. The second type is screwdrivers with a wooden handle, a round shank for screws and screws with a slot width of 0,5 to 2 mm and a length of 160 to 320 mm. For strength, the handle is pulled together by a cap. It is punched in two places so that it does not separate from the handle.

The most durable third type of screwdriver, the steel shaft extends from the blade to the end of the handle. Wooden here - overhead cheeks. The blades of the blades are designed for screws and screws with a slot width of 0,8 to 2 mm. A screwdriver can be used as a chisel, say, when loosening large nuts. The blade can then be sharpened. A screwdriver will also replace a chisel if something needs to be corrected. Specifically, for home use, two screwdrivers 200 mm long with a blade blade width of 3 and 5 mm are enough. True, in toilets separated from bathrooms, there is too narrow a space between the side of the flush tank and the wall. To tighten the screws of the release mechanism plates when it is located on the side of the flush tank, you will need a special screwdriver 80-100 mm long. It can be replaced with a steel plate the size of a safety razor, knife, etc.

In general, a screwdriver is easier to make than any other tool. The easiest is wire screwdrivers. Any steel is fine. If the wire is too steely and hard, anneal it either at the bend or the entire piece going to the handle. Convenient for annealing gas burners, home ovens, etc. To anneal - this means to bring the wire to a red heat and hold it for several minutes (5-10 minutes). It is possible not to take exposure, but at the beginning of red heat, remove the wire and immediately bend it.

To get a spatula on the opposite end of the screwdriver, you can also heat it to red heat and rivet it in this state. Although the trapezoidal shape of the blade is not required. It is enough just to sharpen the end very gently and blunt it a little. But the trapezoidal shape of the blade allows the adjustable wrench to come to the aid of a screwdriver when it is powerless.

With your left palm, you press on the handle of the screwdriver, the blade of which rested against the slot of the screw or bolt, and with your right fingers, move the jaws of the adjustable wrench around the blade and turn it in the right direction. If even now the screw or screw does not budge, then another method will have to be applied. But the most important purpose of the blade is that it broadens the screwdriver shaft, that is, it allows you to unscrew screws with a long slot with a thinner rod. Only if the slot and blade of the blade coincide in all sizes will it be possible to completely convert (transmit) the force applied to the screwdriver handle into torque.

According to GOST 24437-80, five types of blades for straight slots are produced: 1 - straight barrel-shaped, 2 - with parallel planes, 3 - wedge-shaped for screws with a head, 4 - wedge-shaped for screws without a head, 5 - wedge-shaped for round nuts with a slot on the end.

It is said that experience is the criterion of truth. Everyone should have felt that with the same slot of the screw, the more the width of the blade corresponded to the length of the slot, the easier it was to unscrew. Everyone must remember the rule of leverage. One of its consequences is that with a longer lever, it is easier to get the job done. The length of the lever in a screwdriver is equal to half the width of the blade, and this half must rest on the wall of the slot...

Blade dimensions (in mm) in relation to screw and screw dimensions

When breaking out or chipping part of the blade of the blade, it is desirable to sharpen it on an emery stone. A file is not always possible, because the hardness of the blade according to Rockwell is HRC 46 ... 52. The file has approximately the same hardness. The blade of a screwdriver of our own production should be subjected to heat treatment. To do this, the spatula is heated to a cherry-red color, that is, up to 750 ... 800shC over a length of 10 ... 20 mm and vertically loaded into water by 5 ... 6 mm. Now you can attach a handle to the screwdriver shaft. The easiest way is to cut off a piece of a thick branch with a diameter of, say, 20 mm and a length of 70-100 mm, along with the bark.

The latter plays the role of a tightening tube, although if there is still a metal one, then it’s a good idea to stuff it over the bark, smoothing the sharp edges at the end with a file. Flatten the end of the rod, opposite to the blade, stepping back from the edge by 8 ... 10 mm. Flattening at a length of 4 ... 8 mm (depending on the diameter of the rod) is carried out so that the rod does not turn on the handle. After that, sharpen the end near the flattened place and clamp the rod in a vise. This vise rod should protrude with a pointed end to such a length that it is convenient to fill the handle. It will not split if you correctly select the ratio between the diameters of the handle and the rod. It would be better, of course, if metal rings, or a tube, or a sleeve from a hunting rifle are first stuffed onto the handle. It is possible to cut annular grooves on the handle and wind steel wire into them.

A special group consists of screwdrivers with a Phillips blade (GOST 10754-80). They are available in two versions with different sharpening angles and five sizes. These screwdrivers allow you to transfer high forces when tightening. Therefore, cross-head screws are often found in faucet heads, door locks, and the like. If such a screwdriver is not available, use a regular flat-bladed screwdriver.

It is important that the width of the blade enters two slots located on the same line. Sharpen the wider blade on one side. This will allow it to be used for both diametrical and cross-shaped slots. If you want to completely "devote" a screwdriver to cross-shaped slots, then it is better to give the blade a conical shape. Then it will be better to sit in the slots.

If necessary, you can make a Phillips screwdriver from a conventional screwdriver by cutting off a flat blade and leaving a non-hardened part of the rod. On the resulting end, apply two diameters crosswise at an angle of 90° to each other. Hold the screwdriver comfortably in a vise, chamfer between the diameters so that there is about a millimeter left on the end of the diameter line, and saw using a triangular file and a hacksaw. It is better to have a Phillips screwdriver as a reference, and if you do not have one, use a screw or Phillips head screw. With a metal handle, the resulting cruciform blade can be hardened. Other types of handles require for the time of heat treatment the rod winding, for example, with a damp cloth. You need to do this at the very handle.

The blades may not be hardened. It all depends on the number of screws and screws that need to be wrapped. In the case of making a whole screwdriver, use an ordinary nail 120-150 mm long as a core. In the place where you cut off the head, grind a cross-shaped slot, and riveting from the side of the point, as advised above.

Craftsmen can do the opposite. After all, the sharpening of the nail represents a tetrahedral pyramid. Saw through a notch on each edge, try on the cross slot on the head of the screw or screw, remove the interfering file with a file - and the cross blade is ready. Harden it. Flatten the opposite end without cutting off the head, but only by narrowing it and sharpening it. Stuff the handle - and the screwdriver is ready. If there are screws or cross-head screws that need to be screwed in, but if you don’t have the appropriate screwdriver, and you don’t want to undermine the blade with the existing one, you can do this. Using a hacksaw, cut a diametrical slot in a screw or screw based on any of the two available.

Do not rush to throw away a screwdriver with a broken plastic handle. It is made from polystyrene, polystyrene, polyacrylate, etc. Some of these plastics soften at high temperatures. Use this to splice the broken piece and the rest of the handle. If the plastic turns out to be heat-resistant, then round off the sharp parts of the handle remaining with the rod with a file or emery and use it. In another case, the end of the rod may peep out of the fragment of the handle. Well, turn the screwdriver into a chisel, punch, etc.

It is possible to soften the handle plastic over a gas burner. With an electric stove, put, say, a lid from a can on the burner so that the plastic does not drip directly onto the heating surface.

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