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8. Wire cutters Directory / Electrician in the house According to the purpose, the nippers can be divided into three groups. The first is the end cutters. They bite wire with a diameter of up to 3 mm, nails, thin sheet material, etc. End cutters according to GOST 7282-75, mm
An example of a symbol for wire cutters with a length of L = 200 mm with a surface roughness according to group 1 with X9.6 coating, without insulating handles: wire cutters 7814-0127 1 X9.6 GOST 7282-75. The same, with insulating handles: wire cutters 7814-0128 1 X9.6 GOST 7282-75. Wire cutters with insulated handles are mainly designed for electrical work. They protect the human hand from getting electric current on it. But this insulation is pierced if a person is in a damp room. Any wire cutters are turned into electrical wire cutters when rubber or plastic tubes are put on their handles. Nipper levers are made of steel grades U7, U7A, 7HF, 8HF or from steel of other grades with mechanical properties in a heat-treated state not lower than those of the listed steels. For the axis of the cutting pliers, steel grade 20 or steel of other grades with mechanical properties not lower than that of steel 20 is used. Of course, sawing the levers of the pliers yourself is too laborious a task. But without replacing the axis with the frequent use of wire cutters, one cannot do. In order for the axle to wear out less, it should be lubricated, as well as the contact surfaces of the levers. If the levers begin to hang out on the axle, you need to distribute the latter. To do this, the axis of the wire cutters and their parallel planes are alternately placed on a massive metal wooden or concrete base. The beard is placed in the center of the axis or near its circumference and strong hammer blows on it create depressions or depressions. The same is done on the opposite end side of the axle. If the "measure" did not choose a gap between the axle and the holes of the levers, then it is drilled. It is preferable to turn the new axis on a lathe because of the desired conical part. The steel of the axle is about the same as that of the nail. From it, they sometimes make an axis, getting the conical parts of it by riveting on both sides. During the riveting process, periodically check the rotation of the levers relative to each other. It is possible to cut an axle from such a steel rod to get one of the conical parts of the axle. But it is labor-intensive and demanding work. It is not forbidden to get a new axle from a copper or brass rod when the wire cutters will rarely be used. The trouble is that when biting, say, a steel wire with a diameter of 2 ... 3 mm, an axis made of copper or brass will stretch the forces and the levers will swing relative to each other. After heat treatment, the hardness of the cutting edges of the jaws reaches a hardness of 55...61 NRSD. This is in the order of the hardness of the file. Therefore, the cutting edges cannot be corrected with a file. Only an abrasive stone is suitable for this, and even then not any. Axis of end cutters according to GOST 7282-75, mm
With any tool you need to refer to "you". In relation to wire cutters, this means that they should only "bite" soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 1 mm. Steel solid wire of any diameter is interrupted with a hammer striker, laying the wire, for example, on something steel that has an angle (steel corner, ax butt, etc.). The wire is more likely to give up when it is bent in the right place. The appearance of steel steel wire can be deceiving. The fact is that galvanized steel wire is used for external overhead communication lines. Therefore, before using wire cutters, you should look into the end of the end of the wire. The stronger and larger the biting material, the closer to the middle of the cutting edges of the jaws it should be placed. Only with a careful attitude to the wire cutters, their qualities are preserved: 1) with compressed handles of the wire cutters, the blades of the sponges come into close contact, a gap between them of more than 0,1 mm is unacceptable; 2) joint in the hinge ensures smooth movement of the levers; the gap in the hinge between the levers in the diametrical direction is allowed no more than 0,3 mm per side for wire cutters 125 and 160 mm long and 0,4 mm per side for wire cutters 180, 200 and 250 mm long; 3) the displacement of the ends of the jaws of the cutting pliers relative to each other in the direction of the hinge axis is permissible no more than 0,3 mm for cutting pliers 125 mm long; 0,4 mm for wire cutters 160, 180, 200 and 250 mm long; 4) insulation on the handles of wire cutters. Caring for the wire cutters also includes their intended use. They should not replace the crowbar, hammer and tongs. Hence the question: how should the wire cutters be held? At the moment of biting, the palm usually covers the handles. Only the little finger is left between the handles for breeding them. With frequent use of nippers, the ring and even middle fingers are sent to help the little finger. On the pliers of old designs, one should be wary of getting and pinching the skin of the palm at the point of convergence of the levers before they move into flat areas. Then the gap in this place was less than on modern wire cutters. Therefore, on the "ancient" cutters, it is preferable to place the palm closer to the ends of the handles. Shoe cutters differ from those described above in more massive handles and sponges. Some owners of such nippers try to bite, for example, large-sized nails. And since such a nail, not at the head, can only be captured by the lateral ends of the sponges, this leads to their chipping and deformation of the axis. The levers of the cutters begin to swing relative to each other, which was also noted earlier. Rolling is reduced by riveting the protruding parts of the axle, which in these wire cutters is not flush with the flat part of the handles. And the chipping of a sponge or sponges will not be restored by anything. The end cutters also include hinged-lever cutters. They have double levers, which greatly increase the pressure of the jaws, provided that the person applies the same force as he applied in single-lever cutters. A major disadvantage of these wire cutters is that they are stamped from steel sheet. The jaws are not comparable in strength to the massive jaws of single-lever cutting pliers. Therefore, when operating, you should be especially selective. From steel wire that has undergone heat treatment, sponges will not just crumble in one place. One or both sponges will be torn apart by cracks. Such defects are weakly prevented by constraints. The latter are stamped in the manufacture of wire cutters. Sometimes pins are riveted instead of stamping. The limiters also serve at the same time for fitting a tape or wire spring, spreading the jaws after each compression. If the "native" spring is lost, it is easy to wind a new one or choose the right one. The heads of the hinge axes, as in shoe cutters, protrude. Prudent riveting them will allow you to remove the resulting backlash between the levers. That is, after each impact, you should check the possibility of mutual movement of the mating levers. Nail nippers, bag end cutters consist of two welded spring plates with concave blades at one end. The plates are contacted by a pushable rotary lever. On its inside is a nail file. Levers come in a variety of shapes, with smoothly polished or engraved designs on the front. The details of the wire cutters are stamped from a steel strip and subjected to heat treatment. The surface of the nippers, with the exception of the blades, has a nickel or chrome plating. Sponges-blades perfectly sharpen. The gap along the line of contact is unacceptable. The connection of all parts of the nippers is strong, without pitching, provides smooth free movement during operation. The lever is moved without resistance along the rod. It is clear that cracks, nicks, distortions and curvature should not occur on the nippers as they are used. Too delicate "material" is served by wire cutters. In one design of nail clippers, the handle plates are stamped together and bent in half so that there is an acute angle between them. Earrings fix cutouts on the plates. The rod penetrating the earring limits the expansion of the plates. An elegant non-rotating lever with a mother-of-pearl plate “sits” on it. Yes, perfect designs are worthy of such information. As they say, "you take in hands, you wave a thing". In the absence of wire cutters for stripping insulation from a wire having a core of 0,6 ... 0,9 mm in diameter, you can use an aluminum clothespin. Two indentations are sawn in her sponges. Insert the end of the wire into them. Squeeze the clothespin with your fingers, biting through the insulation. If the wire is wound on the left hand, then with the right hand with a clothespin, not without effort, we will remove the insulation when we clean the ends of the wires. The second group includes side cutters. They clean wires from insulation, cut copper and aluminum wires with a diameter of up to approximately 1 ... 2 mm, etc. Side cutters according to GOST 22308-77, mm
An example of a symbol for wire cutters with a length of L = 160 mm with surface roughness parameters according to group 1, without handle insulation, coated X9: cutters 7814-0133 1 X9 GOST 22308-77. The same with handle insulation: wire cutters 7814-0137 1 X9 GOST 22308-77. The material and its heat treatment for the cutting pliers of this group are the same as for the first group. Axis of side cutters according to GOST 22308-77, mm
The requirements for careful handling of side cutters during operation are much more stringent than for end cutters. If you "bite", then only soft non-ferrous metals. The cutting edges of the jaws will immediately receive dents from nails, steel wire, etc. After all, the side cutters have miniature, elongated sponges. They are convenient to strip the insulation from the wires. True, and for this you need a skill so as not to have a snack, for example, wires for a security alarm, telephone or radio station. Therefore, before laying such wires, you should practice stripping the ends of the cuts of these wires. At the same time, they cover the handle of one lever with the thumb, the handle of the opposite lever with the index and middle fingers, and with the little and ring fingers they slow down the reduction of the levers of the wire cutters. It is important to feel the moment of biting the insulation. Then you should change the direction of movement of the sponges. They need to be pulled along the wire, tearing off a short tube of insulation from the total mass. When the core diameter is within approximately 0,5 ... 0,8 mm, when the insulation is broken, the cutting edges should not scrape the copper of the core. For this, firstly, reduces the cross section of the core, and, secondly, it will break in the place of a "strong" cut in the longitudinal direction. Analysis of numerous used nippers shows that some of them have one of the two ends of the jaws broken off. Of course, it cannot be restored. Let me remind you again that side cutters are not pliers! Dull, but not serrated, cutting edges are brought back to youth by sharpening. True, two notches or indentations located opposite each other on opposite cutting edges are useful if they are not in the zone of the main biting. These two opposing notches will cut through the insulation of the wire. Their closing will not bite the vein, because it will be between the edges of the notches. The total depth of the notches is chosen in the range of 0,7 ... 1,2 mm. Among the side ones there are wire cutters with more powerful sponges. The cutting edges of the jaws are located approximately at an angle of 45° to the axis around which the levers rotate. Similar wire cutters were produced by the Victor company. They are like a cross between end and side cutters. Toilet nail clippers are designed for cutting nails and burrs. A folding leaf spring is attached to the inside of one of the handles, which spreads these handles. The levers of the nippers are stamped from tool steel grade U 7 or U 8, heat treated. The nippers have a decorative coating. The jaws of the blade will be in contact along the entire line of sharpening if the wire cutters are used for their intended purpose. The third group includes cutting pliers of non-traditional shape and purpose in everyday life. So, special wire cutters consist mainly of two hardened steel circles, which are the ends of the handles. That is, they are forged together. The mugs sit on a common axis and replace the sponge-blades. Along the circumference of these circles, grooves of different widths are cut or stamped, which coincide in pairs when the handles are moved apart. In all slots on each of the discs, one side in the radial direction is beveled and honed in the form of a blade. With the handles extended, a suitable groove is selected according to the thickness of the wire being bitten. A wire is inserted into the groove and the handles are closed. The resulting end of the wire is smooth, there are no creases and burrs. The blade, depending on the need, we move in one direction or another and fix it with a screw. Serves as a spatula for measuring the wire in the case when it is necessary to cut many pieces of the same length. Nippers with elongated jaws are designed for piercing holes with a diameter of up to 2,5 ... 3 mm. Interchangeable dies and punches provide any holes within the given limits in brass, textolite, foil, etc., when the material thickness is up to 0,3 mm. Several other wire cutters have also been created. In them, instead of one punch, a wheel is fixed on the upper jaw, along the periphery of which a plurality of punches are fixed in the radial direction. Therefore, to change the punch, you only need to turn the wheel. But the matrix corresponding to the punch is fixed in the sponge in approximately the same way as in the previous design. Universal wire cutters for cutting blanks of complex configuration were proposed by the innovator E.I. Pavlyut. Their use will help in the manufacture of stencils and templates from thin sheet material. Nippers have replaceable dies and punches. A hole is punched or drilled in the material with another tool. Then the punch is inserted into the hole, not without effort. The reduction of the handles of the pliers will force the punch to return to the matrix, cutting out a groove of the desired configuration "along the way". Turning the punch and again making forward-return movements with it, we get a greater number of grooves. Each interchangeable pair, matrix and punch, may be in the form of a circle, trapezoid, rectangle, etc. A combined hand tool with enhanced action was also proposed by E.I. Pavlyut. And here there are replaceable dies and punches. The applied palm force is changed by moving the wedge. A spring assists this movement in the guide rails, and bolts secure the wedge. The matrices and punches of the nippers of the third group are made of tool steel of the U 7 or U 8 type. Subsequent heat treatment brings the hardness of these parts to HRC = 55...58. The file should not leave marks on them. The rest of the details of the wire cutters are cut out of Art. 45. This steel is not required, but some places, and sometimes parts of the wire cutters, should be heat treated to a hardness of HRC = 42 ... 46. Back (Knives fitter for electricians) Forward (Screwdriver) See other articles Section Electrician in the house. Read and write useful comments on this article. Latest news of science and technology, new electronics: Traffic noise delays the growth of chicks
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